Peeling classification

Peeling - controlled skin stress

Peeling is a traumatic and stressful procedure. The basis of controlled stress is the stage of skin mobilization, which activates many reparative processes in the skin. Peeling is a stressful procedure that, by injuring the skin, triggers the processes of restoration and renewal of skin structures, which as a result leads to an improvement in many of its quality indicators.

Any peeling leads to skin damage, and then stimulates protective and regenerative processes in tissues, as a result of which the synthesis of collagen and elastin is enhanced, skin renewal occurs, and its tone and elasticity increases. At the same time, outwardly, skin tone is evened out, pores are narrowed, texture is improved, and problem skin is treated.

The use of peelings with varying degrees of aggressiveness allows you to have a targeted effect on certain layers of the skin and obtain the desired effect. The skin's response to peeling is the activation of recovery processes: cells begin to grow and divide rapidly.

Types of peelings

Peeling can be:

• chemical (acid and enzyme);
• mechanical (scrubbing, microdermabrasion, deep dermabrasion);
• physical (laser resurfacing).

There is a classification of peelings according to their composition:

• single-drug products (milk, glycolic, phenol, etc.) - in various concentrations);
• combined (for example, AHA + BHA acids), as well as a combination of different acids and other bioactive substances.

Today, the most popular are combined chemical peels , as they are considered more controlled and, accordingly, more safe.

Organic acids are used for chemical peels:

• for superficial peeling - fruit (AHA) and BHA, as well as enzymes and peptides ;
• for the median - trichloroacetic acid (TCA), retinoids ;
• for deep - phenolic acid.

Classification of peelings according to the depth of impact on the skin layers

Superficial peeling

There are virtually no complications if the protocol is followed correctly. Removes partially or completely the stratum corneum of the epidermis. These peels are the most painless and usually the safest. Skin restoration occurs gradually, but quite quickly. Superficial peels have a cumulative effect. The maximum result can be observed after completing the entire course of procedures.

Superficial types of peeling include: microdermabrasion, skin scrubbing and chemical types of peeling.

With the chemical type of peeling, it is not mechanical exfoliation that disrupts the integrity of the skin, but the dissolution of dead cells of the surface layer of the skin upon contact with the peeling components. Most often, the active components of chemical peeling are organic acids and sometimes enzymes.

Superficial peeling has an effect within several layers of keratinized cells of the epidermis. It is the most gentle type of chemical peeling. Mainly recommended for young and problematic skin. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are used in concentrations up to 70%, salicylic acid 2-5% or trichloroacetic acid (TCA) in concentrations up to 15%.

Medium peeling

It sometimes affects the epidermis up to the basement membrane, but can also affect the dermis, which leads to a pronounced rejuvenating effect. Requires a certain recovery period. Medium peelings should be carried out by professional cosmetologists, since this type of peeling, according to statistics, gives up to 10% of complications if it is performed incorrectly.

Subsequently, fine- or large-plate peeling may occur. This type of peeling is performed to solve specific problems, as well as to combat age-related changes in the skin. The effect lasts for a long time. TCA is used in a concentration of 20-35%, as well as Jessner's solution, a combination of glycolic acid and TCA. Recently, new combinations of TCA with other active ingredients have appeared.

Deep peeling

Affects the epidermis and dermis, sometimes reaching its reticular layer. TCA up to 50% or phenol are used. This type of peeling is carried out in a medical institution, so this procedure is a surgical procedure. The rehabilitation period can last from one month to six months. Deep peels can cause up to 35% of various complications. With their help, you can remove not only wrinkles, but also scars. This type of peeling also includes deep mechanical dermabrasion and laser resurfacing.

Peeling is a completely individual procedure for each client at a specific time. Depending on the specific case, not only drugs are selected to work with the existing problem - acne, hyperpigmentation , signs of aging, but the intensity of the peeling effect (depth of influence) is also regulated. Throughout the entire procedure, the cosmetologist can clearly monitor and control the depth of penetration of the active components, which makes it possible to safely and efficiently carry out the procedure to achieve an optimal result.

Read the full version of the article in the magazine "Pro Cosmetology by Cosmetologist" No. 6, 2018