Anna Zabolotnaya , Head of the International Academy of PM and Aesthetic Dermopigmentation "Biotek" (Russia), certified artist, international class master teacher in permanent make-up, aesthetic dermopigmentation and trichopigmentation, winner of the first Contour of the Century competition (2003), judge of permanent make-up championships in Russia and abroad, lecturer at the International University of PM (Milan, Italy) (Russia)

The technique of performing permanent make-up of eyebrows with individual hairs is the most effective and one of the most difficult at the present time, and methods for applying a pattern of hairs are constantly being improved. This method is quite versatile and can be used for eyebrows with or without hairs. Hairs can (and should) be connected and crossed with each other, the main thing is that each of them is well “read” and does not look like the previous one. We can offer this procedure to clients of any age and gender.

A full-fledged permanent eyebrow makeup lasts, as a rule, for a year and a half - it all depends on the age of the client, his lifestyle and the color of the pigment.

Procedure steps

1. Work begins with a preliminary sketch. To do this, I use a cosmetic pencil, the color of which completely matches the color of the selected pigment. This is done so that the client can imagine the final result. 2. The client must check the sketch, the beginning and end of the eyebrow together with you, confirm the symmetry. 3. The procedure is performed under application anesthesia. It is very convenient to apply the cream with a plastic spatula, which does not absorb the anesthetic. To enhance the effect of the anesthetic, we apply an occlusive bandage. While the anesthesia is working, it is possible to prepare the desktop, typewriter, pigments, needles and other consumables. 4. For drawing hairs, a No. 1 needle is always used. There are different types of this number, each of them is used for a specific skin type and depending on the thickness of the natural eyebrow hairs. 5. The first stage is fixing the form on the skin. To do this, strokes are applied over the entire shape of the eyebrow from the lower to the upper border, imitating the natural growth and direction of the hairs. 6. We work, covering small areas, periodically removing excess paint. We check how the pigment is fixed in the skin. 7. After that, additional anesthesia can be applied to the already perforated skin. Secondary anesthesia is applied for 3⎼5 minutes, and at this time we start working on the second eyebrow. 8. With a dry cotton pad or napkin, remove the remnants of the anesthetic drug. We begin to draw the hairs from the head of the eyebrow to the tail, strictly in height, completely repeating the natural styling of the hairs. The distance between the hairs should not be too large (with obvious gaps) or too small (so that the hairs do not merge into a single mass). At this stage, the pigment is removed from the skin as often as possible in order to be able to control its even distribution. 9. After the outline drawing is fixed, we apply anesthesia for the second time and again go to the first eyebrow. 10. Further, brighter and clearer hairs are drawn along the basting strokes. Each of them must be perfect, with its own unique pattern, well drawn. The slope of the hairs should increase as it approaches the tail of the eyebrow. From the middle of the eyebrow, almost all hairs begin to look down. Each client has his own pattern of hair growth, and this must be taken into account. You can not draw hairs strictly vertically, because in nature the hairs intersect with each other. 11. I work on both eyebrows in turn, so that it is convenient to control the brightness of the color and symmetry. The head of the eyebrow is drawn much weaker: this area should look lighter than the entire eyebrow, in this case the effect of naturalness is achieved. The hairs here are arranged more vertically and sparsely. 12. When working at the very beginning of the eyebrows, the movements can be faster so that the hairs do not look very dark. This makes the head more transparent. The ends of the hairs should be so thin that, merging with the skin, the paint becomes invisible. 13. Constantly moving from one eyebrow to another, we can control the overall tone of the work, monitor the harmony of the pattern. We collect the desired color gradually, in layers. Even made in one color, the work can look multi-colored if you change the pressure with the needle and the number of passes in one place. Each dark hair, like the light one, should end with a thin, gradually disappearing line. 14. We start drawing each hair from the base. The pressure with the needle is not strong, only a slight vibration of the skin should be felt under the fingers. As you approach the tip of the hair, the pressure weakens. In this way, you can achieve the greatest naturalness and believability of the picture. Do not forget to constantly check the symmetry, compare the eyebrows with each other. 15. Don't forget about accents. Some hairs may look darker and thicker, just like in real life. Getting to work on the second eyebrow, you need to compare it with the first as often as possible. The slope of the hairs, their density and brightness of color should be repeated. 16. In accordance with the canons of eyebrow construction, the tail should be the thinnest part, and also be not lower than the line of the head of the eyebrow. So that it does not seem overloaded, we are working on this zone in the very final. 17. When the work is almost finished, I want to add naturalness - darken the area where the hairs grow most densely, and also add small strokes to the drawing that imitate vellus hair. 18. At the end, we apply a wound healing cream, and only after that the procedure is considered complete. Now it is very important to clearly explain to the client the rules for the care of permanent makeup, to draw his attention to the fact that following the instructions is 50% of the success of the result. You also need to supplement your story with written instructions. 19. The most important thing is to make sure that the client is satisfied with the result. After complete restoration of the skin, after 4⎼6 weeks, the work should be examined and, if necessary, a correction should be made.

The material was first published in Permanent No. 2/2016