Oily skin and permanent makeup: acceptable techniques
Note to permanent makeup masters
Masters of PM should remember that the client's skin can interfere with his work - worsen the coloring or accelerate the discoloration of the pigment. What are the nuances of working on oily skin? How can a master work with problem skin in different areas of the face?
All clients who come to the PM procedure have approximately the same skin structure, but the intensity of the sebaceous glands is different for everyone.
Producing a secret normally, the sebaceous glands soften the top layer of the skin, launch antimicrobial protection, and prevent the evaporation of water from the skin. In the stratum corneum, sebum “smoothes” the scales, which allows you to even out the surface, make the skin visually more elastic, soft and moisturized.
With excessive secretion of sebum, we observe an oily type of skin - this is porous, usually thick skin, often with acne.
Causes of oily skin
Oily skin has reduced or absent biochemical barriers to acid-sensitive bacteria. This is due to a shift towards an alkaline environment, as a result of which bacteria enter the cells, multiply and provoke the formation of acne.
Spot technique on oily skin. Photo from the archive of Ekaterina Fastovets.
Oily skin can be caused by:
- genetic predisposition;
- puberty;
- endocrine system disorders;
- disorders of the nervous system, stress;
- disorders of the gastrointestinal tract;
- improper care , etc.
Features of working with oily skin
Working with this type of skin has some peculiarities. Anatomically, this is skin on a thick "lining", containing a large number of large sebaceous glands. The thickness of the skin requires a deeper penetration of the pigment, and the production of a large amount of sebum interferes with the strengthening of the pigment in the skin, which leads to a more frequent need for correction than in clients with other types of dermis. Also, inflammatory processes and irritations are often added to increased fat content, which also complicates the work of PM masters. When the body is constantly fighting infections, it speeds up skin regeneration processes. The pigment is perceived as a new irritant, the body tries to reject it - this leads to the fact that permanent makeup can not hold well and spread.
The type of skin affects not only its appearance. When applying permanent makeup, it is the type of skin that affects the choice of needles and the concentration of pigment. So, on oily skin, experts recommend working with needles with Long sharpening or contour beam needles. In case of hyperkeratosis - excessive growth of the stratum corneum of the epidermis - it is recommended to work with needles with Long sharpening or contour beam needles.
Often there are clients with oily, but dehydrated skin. Then the situation is aggravated by peeling on the forehead and around the eyes, as well as on the wings of the nose. On such skin, it is good to work with needles with medium and blunt sharpening.
PM techniques for oily skin
Masters of PM should take into account the following nuances:
- this type of skin is characterized by increased firmness and elasticity, ages later;
- such clients have a history of frequent inflammatory processes and irritations (the master must remember that PM cannot be applied to inflamed skin until the inflammation has completely healed);
- in the area of the eyebrows with oily skin, it is most difficult to work - in order to make a perfect color and preserve the pigment, you need to carry out the procedure as delicately as possible.
On oily skin, the hardware hair immediately after the procedure may look neat, but in the future it is likely that it will blur. Therefore, some experts recommend avoiding the technique of drawing hairs when working with such skin. Some masters use the spraying technique, while taking into account that the result may look good in healing, but during the procedure, excessive ichor will be released. Using the dot technique and filling the form with dots does not injure the tissue nearby, and the eyebrow retains an atraumatic appearance immediately after the procedure, and heals well. Microblading on oily skin carries risks of scarring.
It is imperative to recommend to the client periodic correction and enhanced adherence to care rules, which include: daily cleansing with special lotions and tonics, avoiding the use of alcohol-containing products, the use of sunscreens with a light structure in sunny weather and a nourishing/protective cream in winter.