Step-by-step procedure "Eyebrows in the hair technique" from Nadezhda Kosolapova

Nadezhda Kosolapova , cosmetologist, PM master teacher, speaker of PM conferences, organizer of the 1st and 2nd Crimean PM conferences, chairman of the jury of the 1st Crimean Permanent Makeup Championship, winner of the Leader of the Year 2017 award, founder of the Crimean Club of PM Masters (Simferopol, Crimea)

For almost 10 years , hair technology has been a leader in terms of the number of orders from clients. And although now powder technique is quite actively replacing it, the hair method of PM eyebrows remains popular. In this article, I want to share my own experience, reveal some of the tricks and, perhaps, help someone supplement and improve my technique in the hair technique.

During the existence of this technique, a huge number of its varieties have appeared. And no wonder! Masters cannot work according to a template, perform the same thing on different faces. Clients want lightness and naturalness, a natural look of the eyebrows and a beautiful arrangement of the depicted hair.

I must say that the setting of the hand is very important in this technique, but this is not the only factor for high-quality hair styling. Important are the sharpening and diameter of the needle, the selected power and speed of the device, the pressure and speed of the hand, the depth of penetration of the needle into the skin, the elasticity of the client's skin, post-procedure care.

The needle should enter the upper papillary dermis . A well-placed pigment in the right layer of the skin will allow your client to wear beautiful eyebrows made using the hair technique for 1-2 years. In my opinion, this technique can be performed with both PM pigments and tattoo pigments. But for beginners, I recommend using only pigments for PM. In this master class, I use only one color, however, the hair method allows you to use up to four colors in the procedure. In practice, I have seen this procedure performed with needles 3, 5 F, 3 RL, but I myself prefer the needle 1 R micro (diameter 0.3).

During the procedure, I do not use primary anesthesia . The results of my work have shown that the survival rate of the pigment in 9 out of 10 clients using primary anesthesia is very low (the remainder after one procedure is 20-40% of the color). While in 8 out of 10 clients, when using only secondary anesthesia, the pigment is absorbed by 60–80%. But whatever anesthesia you choose, this technique will require correction in 60% of cases.

Material for work: microneedle 1 R, Goochie device (device speed - 3, needle outreach - 2 mm), a mix was selected for this client (Eternal-Mudslide and Putrid Brown), gel secondary anesthesia.

Photo 1. The client before the procedure.

Photo 2. Color matching in pencils, it is advisable to choose the color of your own eyebrow hair.

Photo 3. Selection and drawing of a sketch, approval. The client wanted to keep the shape, thickness and width of her eyebrows.

Photo 4-5. Agreed sketch. Selection of pigment to the selected color of the pencil. Creating a mix.

Photo 6. We put a mark on the upper and lower edges of the sketch. We work with the tip of the needle. We set the mark with dots along the contour of the eyebrow, then with short strokes along the contour of the eyebrow. The stroke should be short so that you can change the direction of the hair.

Photo 7–8. The mark is visible after deleting the thumbnail.

Photo 9. We put short hairs in the body of the eyebrow. Wipe with a cotton pad with chlorhexidine and make-up remover.

Photo 10. The remainder of the basting passage is very faint, but will become more visible after anesthesia.

Photos 11–12. The application of anesthesia and the appearance of the eyebrow after anesthesia - short strokes are already clearly visible.

Photo 13. We pass through the already depicted hairs and lengthen them like the length of a growing hair in an eyebrow. Elongation does not occur on every hair, but selectively.

Photos 14–15. The appearance of the eyebrow after lengthening the hairs.

Photo 16. We ask the client to take a vertical position, compare and draw the hairs in the desired direction on the second eyebrow, so that they are similar in the direction of growth and length of the depicted hairs on the first eyebrow.

Photo 17. Finished hairs in missing places.

Photo 18. Added hairs. Strengthen the color of the depicted hairs on the second eyebrow to the same color scheme as on the first eyebrow, with added hairs. The second eyebrow is ready.

Photo 19. Eyebrows immediately after the procedure. Finished result.

In my practice, not a single client had rough crusts after this procedure. The hair method can be performed on any skin (with special attention to loose skin) and at any age. It is important to remember that the growth of your own hairs contributes to the natural appearance of the eyebrow. In the absence of own hairs, it is ideal to combine the hair method with shadow shading to create visual volume.

The material was first published in Permanent