Vitamin C in cosmetology

Potential, limitations and features of formulas

2026-02-21

Vitamin C, or ascorbic acid, is one of the most researched and widely used ingredients in skincare. It is a key antioxidant and cofactor in at least eight vital enzymatic reactions. It neutralizes free radicals and plays a central role in collagen synthesis throughout the body, including the skin.

Unlike most mammals, humans are unable to synthesize vitamin C on their own due to the lack of an enzyme that converts glucose to ascorbic acid. Therefore, we are completely dependent on its intake with food. At a young age, it is relatively easy to ensure a sufficient level of vitamin C, but over time the situation becomes more complicated.

Normally, high concentrations of ascorbic acid are present in both the epidermis and the dermis. However, vitamin C in the skin is easily damaged or destroyed by environmental factors - ozone, tobacco smoke and ultraviolet radiation. In addition, with age, its level in the skin decreases for reasons that are still not fully understood.

In the epidermis, the content of vitamin C decreases by 31% with photodamage and by 39% in mature skin. In the dermis, these indicators are 37% and 30%, respectively. A decrease in ascorbic acid concentration is associated with the formation of wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and other signs of aging. Similar processes occur with vitamin E deficiency.

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