Features of winter care for different skin types

Tatyana Shalagina , cosmetologist-esthetician, molecular biologist, Meder Beauty Science trainer, organizer of the Skinstory Education online cosmetologist training project

The cold period is stressful for all skin types, but everyone’s protective reaction is different, which depends on individual physiological characteristics, as well as on our lifestyle. We are all different: some people like to spend the winter with their loved ones in the warmth of the family hearth, others conquer all the snow-capped peaks of ski resorts, and this is also important for the correct set of skin care procedures.

What happens to the skin in winter?

At the cellular level in the skin, under the influence of low temperature and wind, a decrease in the mass of intercellular lipids is observed, and a similar process occurs with age-related changes in the skin [1]. From this we can draw a disappointing conclusion: winter “accelerates” aging. The composition of the natural moisturizing factor also changes [2], the activity of the sebaceous glands decreases, which is not directly related to skin hydration, but affects the production of glycerol, an endogenous moisturizer of the stratum corneum [3]. The cold factor leads to a decrease in the barrier function of the skin and an increased risk of exposure to mechanical influences - for example, the action of wind or the friction of a woolen scarf on the chin. Keratinocytes release pro-inflammatory cytokines and cortisol, and the number of skin mast cells increases, causing the skin to become more reactive to irritants and allergens. This is the key reason for the worsening of dermatoses in winter [4] or the appearance of allergic reactions to cold. Thus, an important difference between care in winter is the special emphasis on stopping inflammatory processes.

The next important point in winter care is proper cleansing. Any cleansing procedure affects the integrity of the epidermal barrier, so in winter it is important to switch to the most gentle products, such as milk, micellar solutions and, in extreme cases, cleansing foams. In my practice during the winter, I recommend that all clients switch to cleansing their faces with milk.

It is equally important to take into account the client’s subjective feelings: is there a need to apply a moisturizer after cleansing? If a person can wash his face and forget about the next steps of care for a while, the cleansing is ideal. For those who are concerned about the film that the milk may leave behind, I recommend removing the product with a damp terry towel.

Let's take a closer look at the most typical skin conditions of our clients in winter and look at the basic nuances of caring for it:

Features of oily skin type

Oily resistant skin

People with this skin type are visually characterized by enlarged pores and an oily sheen. In summer they suffer from excess sebum, and young individuals are bothered by blackheads. In winter, such clients can easily tolerate retinoids and chemical peels, rarely complaining of peeling and irritation. Skin with this type of sebum production requires minor adjustments to home care: instead of gels, use creams with a mattifying and sebum-regulating effect. This also applies to decorative cosmetics. Due to the decrease in sebum production, especially for older clients, you can try adding oils to your skincare routine. It is better to switch from summer cleansing gels to cleansing foam with soft surfactants or milk.

Oily sensitive skin

This is skin with periodic rashes, rosacea and other manifestations of rosacea . She is often irritated, dry in feel, but oily in sebum. Such skin needs the most gentle cleansing possible. If in summer acids were acceptable in care, then in winter tolerance to them decreases: it is worth reducing the concentrations, or even abandoning active drugs altogether. Retinoids can be used in combination with creams, which will soften their aggressive effects. For oily sensitive skin, using samplers, you can carefully select products based on oils or with dense textures, since the comedogenicity of cosmetics is very individual. Lamellar emulsions and DMS structures may become more relevant during this period. Lots of mild antioxidants, lots of soothing ingredients and lots of hydration. Oily, sensitive skin sometimes reacts sharply to diet, and since in winter the amount of sweets and fatty foods in the diet increases, exacerbations are a common problem and you need to be prepared for it.

Features of dry skin type

Dry resistant skin

Despite its visual beauty, such skin will suffer in winter primarily from dehydration. This skin now needs to be moisturized especially actively, paying special attention to preventing TEWL. As mentioned earlier, in winter, the amount of intercellular lipids, a deficiency of which dry skin suffers, decreases [1], so it is correct to focus on drugs that replenish this deficiency: ceramides, fatty acids, cholesterol. Moreover, we should not forget that all three components work in a complex manner; studies demonstrate that replenishing any one of them does not produce results [3]. For dry, resistant skin, dense textures in the fall can be replaced with almost oily textures in the winter. A home care regimen might look something like this: a hyaluronic acid-based moisturizing serum, followed by an oil serum and a thick occlusive cream on top. It is also worth noting that resistant skin in winter can acquire signs of sensitive skin, and in this case, despite the temporary nature, it should be considered as the last one.

Dry sensitive skin

This is skin with a variety of dermatoses or a tendency to them: atopic dermatitis, seborrhea, psoriasis, eczema, frost allergies or simply dry sensitive skin, which begins to redden and peel in winter. If light acids could be allowed in the care of such skin in the summer, then in winter it is better to avoid them altogether, transferring the client to the gentlest possible cleansing, soothing, moisturizing and exfoliation using the most gentle means: enzyme peels and low-abrasive mechanical scrubs. If the skin is severely irritated and dehydrated, you can safely add occlusion in the form of preparations with mineral oil. DMS structures, saturated fatty acids can also support barrier properties well. It is also worth paying special attention to neurocosmetic drugs that reduce the receptor sensitivity of the skin.

Pigmented skin

Winter is a great season for lightening. Even if the client does not undergo a course of depigmenting procedures, such skin, depending on sensitivity, should add antioxidants and depigmenting agents to its care. Resistant skin accepts vitamin C, arbutin, kojic acid, glycolic acid, and retinoids well. Sensitive skin is best treated with depigmenting plant extracts (INCI: Arctostaphylos (Bearberry) Uva Ursi Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Extract, Lentinus Edodes Extract), antioxidants, niacinamide. In winter, the pigment itself goes away well due to the absence of the main trigger of melanocyte activity - the sun, but you and I can contribute a little to this process. And if you act on the principle of “do no harm,” it is possible to avoid further pigmentation .

Complete skin care plan

For truly effective winter skin care, products and preparations alone will not be enough. Therefore, it is worth talking with the client about his lifestyle, eating habits, sleep patterns, diseases and, if necessary, referring him for a consultation with specialists in the field of medicine.

Changes in diet

It is worth remembering that in winter the diet becomes rich in festive high-calorie foods, there is a lot of sweets, as well as alcoholic drinks. Those who have a direct connection between the appearance of inflammatory elements and nutrition should definitely visit a nutritionist, dermatologist, or cosmetologist so as not to spoil their holiday mood. Among homemade cosmetics, it is worth recommending more often the use of anti-inflammatory masks, antioxidant drugs, and mild home peelings. For those who do not have a reaction to sweets, but are concerned about age-related changes, it would be important to add drugs that prevent the formation or reduce glycation products in the skin - these include the isoflavone pueparin from Kudzu extract (Puerariae Radiх) or silk tree bark extract (Albizia julibrissin ).

Reducing drinking load

In winter, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) increases in the skin, as people often start drinking less when it's cold. Therefore, it would be a good idea to remind clients not to reduce their drinking load, but to switch to warm water for comfort. Research shows that water temperature during water treatments has a significant impact on the occurrence of contact dermatitis [5]. And since in winter the skin especially loses its barrier properties, clients should be advised to reduce the frequency of using cleansers while showering, use products based on the mildest surfactants, and also not abuse high water temperatures.

Load on blood vessels

In winter, due to frequent temperature changes, the microcirculatory bed of the skin experiences a special load: the capillaries either have to expand to warm the epidermis deprived of blood, or contract to retain heat for the more important organs of the body. Do not forget that sudden changes in temperature are a risk of developing rosacea and rosacea, so it is important to avoid this phenomenon. Remind the client to wear warm clothing, protection from the cold, and adequate skin hydration, as well as to minimize the consumption of hot drinks, spicy foods, and alcohol.

Microbiome correction

The skin microbiome and its condition are interconnected. The microbiome affects skin hydration, its barrier properties, and resistance to exogenous factors. I repeat that in winter, not only natural factors worsen the condition of the skin, but also our own actions - active or aggressive procedures. It is worth taking care of the microbiome by adding preparations with prebiotics to your care, which can be alternated over time with active products. For example, prebiotics in the morning, retinoids in the evening. In this way it is possible to achieve a balance between destruction and restoration.

Winter sun and protection from it

In winter, when the UV index in Ukraine does not rise above 1 even on a sunny day, but this is not a reason to ignore sunscreen. Our physical sunscreens are not as harmless as they might seem, but our bodies still do not have inexhaustible reserves and “perpetual motion machines”, given the large number of stress factors in our routine . Sun protection is especially important during winter holidays in the mountains - the protection regime should be the same as in summer - waterproof sunscreen UVB/UVA SPF 50+.

Skin hydration

For some reason, the myth that you don’t need to moisturize your skin in winter is very common. Knowing that in winter the skin becomes drier and all the troubles with it occur mostly due to dryness, it is not clear why this should not be done. After all, the principle of hydration does not lie directly in filling the skin with water, which comes to the epidermis from a static pool of water in the dermis [6], but, for example, in creating a breathable film that reduces TEWL and the skin is filled with moisture. Stories about ice crystals of water in the skin refer to extreme cases of frostbite, which are almost impossible to encounter in urban conditions. It is also obvious that you should not go out into the cold with a wet face or immediately after a moisturizing mask, since the water, evaporating, will cool the skin, which is obviously uncomfortable. Moisturizing preparations must be applied 15-20 minutes before leaving, which will allow the excess to evaporate and the remaining to “sit down”, and after the moisturizing procedure the client should be asked to sit for 10 minutes with tea in the hall. But believe me, even if he immediately leaves the salon and gets into the car, nothing bad will happen, the skin can warm itself up on its own.

It is important to remember that everyone is different. The most effective skin care will be the one that is selected individually, taking into account a person’s routine, his lifestyle, and the characteristics of his body.

I sincerely wish everyone a frosty, fabulous winter and healthy skin!

Literature

1. Stratum corneum lipids: the effect of aging and the seasons, J. Rogers, C. Harding, A. Mayo, J. Banks, A. Rawlings, 1996, https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/ BF02505294

2. Relationship Between NMF (Lactate and Potassium) Content and the Physical Properties of the Stratum Corneum in Healthy Subjects, Noriaki Nakagawa, Shingo Sakai, Masayuki Matsumoto, Kenichi Yamada, Masahiro Nagano, Takuo Yuki, Yasushi Sumida and Hideyo Uchiwa, 2004

3. Cosmetic dermatology, L. Baumann, 2016

4. The effect of environmental humidity and temperature on skin barrier function and dermatitis. Engebretsen KA 1, Johansen JD 1, Kezic S 2, Linneberg A 3,4,5, Thyssen JP 1. 2016

5. Effects of water temperature on surfactant-induced skin irritation, Enzo Berardesca, Gian Piero Vignoli, Fernanda Distante, Pietro Brizzi, Giacomo Rabbiosi, 1995 https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/j.1600- 0536.1995.tb00751.x

6. Where does water get into the skin? Tiina Orasmäe-Meder, https://bhub.com.ua

First published: Cosmetologist No. 6, 2019