Review of the main techniques in permanent makeup: expert opinion

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Ekaterina Kuzina , certified trainer, top 10 permanent makeup artists in Ukraine

The basic principle of PM is the introduction of pigment to a certain depth using a needle. There are two ways in permanent makeup: manual, that is, without the use of electrical equipment, and hardware. It is this method that will be discussed today - about hardware techniques and the devices themselves.

In social networks, the names of many techniques flicker, in which not only novice masters, but also clients get confused, often asking the question: “What technique do you use?” I answer: "Author's". And this is true, because each of us develops an individual style in the process of work.

And often it is for recognition that the master comes up with the name of his technique.

In fact, there are two main principles on which all techniques are based: lines and strokes (shadow). Where are lines used in PM? These are eyelids (interciliary space, classic arrow), lips - contour, eyebrows - hairs. Shadow technique is used for all types of shading on the eyelids and shadow effects on the eyebrows.

Technical conditions for the execution of lines :

• an angle of 90-30 degrees in relation to the skin;
• the needle clearly follows the direction of the line, without moving away from the projection to the side, otherwise the line may become blurry, fuzzy and wide;
• the needle does not come out of the skin, remains at the same depth;
• movements - reciprocating (short steps at the same distance) or continuous with a change in pressure at the entrance to the skin and exit (hairs);
• needle configuration - mainly 1RL, 3RL;
• high revolutions of the device, slow hand movements.

Specifications for shadow shading :

• an angle of 90 degrees in relation to the skin - for uniform coloring;
• strokes - "pendulum", different in length - both short and long. Can be laid either close to each other - for dense coloring, or at a greater distance from each other - for airiness;
• slow speed, rather fast hand movements in relation to the skin;
• needles of various configurations.

The main parameters when choosing a technique

1. Skin elasticity is a natural parameter.

It happens that on soft skin, the single needle clings to the skin and easily injures it.

If neither a decrease in hand pressure nor a decrease in the frequency of reciprocating movements helps, then we change the needle to a beam one.

2. The angle at which the needle enters the skin.

Depending on the technique and configuration of the needles, it can be from 30 to 90° to the skin surface. The angle affects the density of the paint, i.e. at 90°, much less pigment will be applied than at an angle of 30°.

Again, if we are working with RS or magnum needles, the angle must be exclusively 90°, since all needles must be in contact with the skin with the same force.

In my work, I mainly use an angle of 90 ° in relation to the skin, then a uniform color is obtained.

Often, beginners face a problem when a client comes for a correction and the following picture appears: one eyebrow is darker, the second is lighter. The answer is simple: during the procedure, you used a different angle of the handpiece towards the skin, so the pigment lies somewhere deeper, and somewhere more superficially.

3. Direction of movement of the hand (toward, away from, pendulum).

It is preferable to use movements on ourselves both with strokes and with lines, so we see the needle, we feel its vibration better.

4. The frequency of reciprocating movements of the needle, speed.

This parameter is visible on the display of the power supply and is equal to the number of needle punctures per second.

The operating frequency range is typically 70 to 150 U/s. The higher the speed, the greater the injury.

5. Pressure on the skin.

Should be minimal, but sufficient for the introduction of pigment. In non-traumatic work, the healing process occurs due to tissue epithelialization, in traumatic work, due to the formation of connective tissue fibers. The skin thickens and it is more difficult to implant the pigment.

6. The speed of movement of the hand (or the speed of movement of the needle along the surface of the skin).

The lower the speed, the less the number of punctures per area at a certain arm speed. The slower the hand moves, the denser the paint.

7. Skin tension.

Another important factor. If, when working on the eyelids, it is simply impossible to do without tension, then there can be a different stretch on the lips - from high to zero.

Read in the continuation of the article: "Choice of equipment"