Pigmentology in the permanent: the color matching process

The process of choosing a color for permanent makeup is based on a separate analysis of each of the factors that interact with each other after the procedure. It is necessary to change the usual schemes in order to move to a new concept of color with parameters and variables that have never been linked together in other aesthetic specialties.

To master this concept in theory and practice, one must forget about traditional views and classifications, which can adversely affect the choice of color suitable for each individual case of micropigmentation.

The color of the pigment visible after the procedure differs from its color before implantation. It is important to trace how various factors influence the color selection process, and be sure to take them into account when making the final decision.

At the initial stage of decision-making, many options are eliminated, and the final choice of color depends on it. This stage takes into account a combination of factors that affect the individual coloring matter, the mixed color and its chemical characteristics.

At the second stage, the options available after the first decision is made are adjusted depending on the techniques and techniques used, as well as the characteristics of the micropigmentation zone. This leads to the adaptation of the solution and the transition to the next stage.

Finally, after analyzing the interaction of the above factors and their influence on the final perception of color, the decision is adjusted, taking into account the motivation, tastes and expectations of the client, as well as recommendations and advice from a specialist. Thus, in the third stage, the final decision is made.

Color circle

Characteristics of dyes

During the production of coloring preparations for permanent makeup, various ingredients are mixed, the combination of which produces colors that are part of the color palette with which the master will work.

Let's analyze where these colors come from and how they are formed, and what are their characteristics. First of all, an important point must be taken into account: in order to obtain the colors of our color range, we must forget about the theory of subtractive color synthesis and replace it with the theory of "derived colors" used in pigmentology. Thus, based on the well-known traditional color theory, we can move on to a new theory that is used in micropigmentation.

Color-forming, derivative and tri-derivative colors

First, the formation of derivative colors from color-forming constituents should be considered. In the classical theory, when obtaining the "color of paints" from the so-called primary colors (red, yellow and blue), secondary colors (green, orange and purple) are formed. In the theory of color pigmentology, four color-forming colors (black or gray-black, red or red-brown, yellow or mustard and white) are the initial ones, from which derivative colors are obtained (light yellow or cream, pink or apricot, orange or terracotta, gray burgundy to purple and olive) and three derived colors (yellow-orange or beige, lilac, ash khaki and warm chestnut).

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Coloring in permanent makeup: a note to masters

Formation of derived colors

There are six derived colors obtained by pairwise mixing of color forming components: black + yellow = olive, black + red = purple, black + white = gray, red + yellow = orange, red + white = pink, yellow + white = light yellow.

However, it is more correct to speak of a whole range of derived colors, that is, of the entire spectrum of shades formed as a result of pairwise mixing of color-forming components in different proportions.

Formation of triderivative colors

There are four three derived colors obtained by combining the three color forming colors: black + yellow + red = warm chestnut, black + yellow + white = ash khaki, black + red + white = lilac, red + yellow + white = yellow-orange.

Just as in the case of derivative colors, it is more correct to speak of a whole gamut of triderivative colors obtained by mixing three color-forming colors in different proportions.