Tattoo eyelids "perfectly": there are no standards in the procedure!

Yuliya Dmitrieva , master stylist of the highest category, founder of the school-studio of permanent makeup PMLife, winner of two all-Ukrainian championships (2014), jury member of the all-Ukrainian PM championship (2015), participant in the IBF world championship (Kyiv, 2017), author and manufacturer of pigments for permanent makeup PMlife (Ukraine)

The eyes are a very individual feature of each face, which is why the PM master should be especially attentive when starting to create permanent make-up of the eyelids. After all, there is no single algorithm for working in this case and cannot be.

Often it is the eyes that create the first impression of a person. Women often use a variety of makeup tricks to make their eyes more expressive and attractive, because for a woman, the look is a secret weapon. Flawless makeup is simply necessary in order to feel confident in any situation. Several components make the eyes attractive: size, shape, eyelid shade, eyelash color.

In permanent makeup, there are many tricks and techniques with which you can make your eyes expressive. This is a classic or glamorous arrow, drawing the lower eyelid, shading , pigmentation of the inter-ciliary space , and so on. In permanent eyelid make-up, we strive to make the look more open and give the eyes an almond shape.

Photos provided by the author.

Let us repeat once again that there is no definite standard in this procedure, and cannot exist, given that all women see themselves differently. Each person is individual, and the master must foresee the result, taking into account the shape of the client's eyes, and competently, from a professional point of view, choose the color based on the knowledge of color.

Sometimes, with beautiful almond-shaped eyes and thick eyelashes, it is enough to make a fluffy inter-eyelash zone. The arrow looks good on young eyes. It corrects the shape and reproduces well the daytime makeup of the shooter with shading, and age eyes do not like clear breaking lines, a shadow is needed here.

Photos provided by the author

We analyze appearance

What should you pay attention to first of all? The PM master should begin his work with an analysis of age (age-related changes), the shape of the eyes and eyelid skin. When constructing a sketch, we must take into account that, due to the peculiarity of the skin of the eyelids, permanent makeup in this area is worn for a very long time, and the eyelid itself is subject to age-related changes. It is necessary to foresee how the eyelid and future permanent makeup will change over time. Therefore, if there is a tendency in the near future to lower the eyelid or there are pronounced folds, you should not make a long and pronounced arrow, it is enough to extend the eyelid with a shadow.

In my opinion, a classic and glamorous shooter should be treated very carefully and deliberately. We, as masters, must convey to the client that fashion, preferences and skin on the eyelid change, but the arrow remains almost forever. Softer shadow blending techniques are not worn for as long and are very easy to remove with a laser.

Analyzing the shape of the eye

Small eyes require a slightly thicker line of the arrow. With round eyes, the main thing is that the arrow does not thicken directly above the pupil. Its thickening should fall on the area immediately after the pupil, and the line above the pupil should be as thin as possible.

Deep-set eyes need a well-painted lash line and the ability to form an arrow. With an impending eyelid, the interciliary zone is stained with an exit from the ciliary zone of the outer corner of the eye, just above the last cilium. On the outer corner of the movable and impending eyelid, we apply a soft shadow with a gradation fading away. The shadow should be transparent and soft in color so as not to look like a stain after healing.

Analyzing the skin

When working with the skin, pay attention to how pronounced the vascular network in the area of the PM is in the client. With a pronounced vascular network, you need to work very superficially and control the reaction of blood vessels to injury. Spreading of the pigment through the vessels is often visible already during the procedure. In this case, instead of the classic arrow, you can offer a shadow shading or a thin pencil arrow with feathering. On aging skin, any shadow techniques will look better, as the line of the arrow will break.

Since we create a shadow in the skin with the help of a superficially applied pigment at the tip of a needle, it consists of microdots. On different skin (age, thin, dense, dry or prone to puffiness), the value of this point will be different. For example, in my opinion, on aged and thin skin, you need to use less pigmented (diluted) and soft colors on the shading of the eyelid, then when healing, the shadow will look softer, without pronounced dots.

The specifics of sketching

In my practice, I always apply anesthesia before drawing a sketch. This avoids puffiness and reduces the likelihood of sketch bleed.

Many masters face difficulties in drawing a sketch of permanent makeup of the eyelids, since the face is often asymmetrical. Eyes, like eyebrows, are very subject to mimic changes. Usually (but not usually) one eyelid is more droopy, the folds on the eyelids can also be different. We start drawing the sketch from the century that is more lowered or has more folds. If this factor is not taken into account, one arrow will look good, and the second will refract or hide under the impending eyelid. In addition to the symmetry of the height and length of the arrows, the symmetry of the entry of the arrow into the interciliary margin is important: it should be soft, rounded. In order to check the symmetry of the entry of the arrow into the inter-ciliary region, it is enough to ask the client to look up.

Schemes 1-3. Building with a classic and glamorous arrow; building an arrow with a lowered corner of the eye; building a shadow with a lowered eyelid

In the process of work, we strictly adhere to the sketch. If there is a visual asymmetry at the end of the procedure, any corrections are possible only at the correction procedure after complete healing, since the eyelid swells unevenly during the procedure. Often the right arrow (if the master is sitting to the right of the couch) swells a little more, it seems shorter and wider.