Permanent lip makeup using the tint lips technique by Natalia Datsyuk

Natalia Datsyuk , PM master, professional make-up artist, national PM expert, trainer-speaker of international conferences, author of her own PM techniques, founder of School & Studio Permanent (Lutsk), official distributor of A&I Schendel in Ukraine

An increasing number of women want to have an almost imperceptible, natural lip line. In this article, we invite the masters to familiarize themselves with the technique, which guarantees the absence of a clear contour and a light, transparent shade.

What should be beautiful lips? Everyone has their own answer. Someone prefers bright, saturated colors and lipstick effects . But perfect natural lips are becoming more and more relevant - permanent makeup, which is not noticed. Fuzzy contours, soft natural color, wet lips effect, transparent shades. This is true for young girls and those who have used the services of a cosmetologist to increase the volume of the lips and do not see the effect due to the lack of color of the red border of the lips.

Photo 1. Before the procedure

In my practice, I increasingly choose the tint lips technique (translated from English - “tint of the lips”). Taking into account the peculiarities of the technique and the results, tint lips should be used to update lipstick effects on the lips, when there is already a sufficient amount of pigment in the skin and it is necessary to apply the pigment precisely to the surface layers so as not to oversaturate the skin of the lips with a pigmenting substance, the excess of which leads to dry skin and even to slow down metabolic processes. White skin is especially dry. And if the skin is oversaturated with white and the client does not want an intense color on the lips, we can offer exactly tint lips - the introduction of non-concentrated pigment with a minimum amount of white.

What is the tint lips technique?

The whole secret lies in the use of an additional agent: I mix the pigment with coconut oil in capsules.

Note: Coconut oil is cold-pressed from dried coconut meat. Coconut oil is rich in lauric acid (up to 50% in unrefined oil), which enhances metabolic processes in the body. Lauric acid is a saturated carboxylic acid, practically insoluble in water, but easily soluble in alcohol, benzene, acetone. Properties of lauric acid: antibacterial, antimicrobial, antiviral, antioxidant, regenerating. Lauric acid heals cracks and wounds on the skin, effectively fights wrinkles, is shown to improve the color and condition of the skin, making it soft and velvety.

Oil is needed in order to make the pigment less concentrated, moisturize the skin, and improve the glide of the needle when piercing the skin. Coconut oil blends beautifully with the pigment, creating a thick texture and apparently making it easier to apply the pigment to the skin of the lips. The result is a very light coloring. In addition, coconut oil noticeably softens the skin. After the procedure, the lips become soft, more sensitive, lively, renewed, which is noticed by most clients.

Add oil to the pigment in a ratio of 1:1 or 1:2 (2 parts of the pigment) - the ratio depends on the desired concentration.

Needles: beam - 1 RL, 3RS, 3RL, 5 RS, 5 RL, 7 RS, 7RL. We use RS needles for elastic skin of the lips, RL - for soft, wrinkled.

Working with bundle needles, we can saturate the skin with the beneficial substances of coconut oil as much as possible. Small overhangs of the needle (1-1.5 mm) will not allow you to go deep into the skin of the lips and will allow you to apply the pigment superficially and non-traumatically.

For a uniform application of the pigment, be sure to stretch and use circular motions. A light outline of the sketch is enough along the contour. The oil in the texture of the pigment does not allow a large amount of coloring matter to heal in the skin of the lips. This is the opposite of lipstick effects.

We use pigments with a minimum amount of white in the composition. A&I Schendel Lips pigments are perfect for this technique.

Method features

Consider the stages of the work of the PM lips in the tint lips technique.

1. Sketch fixing.

We work with a 1 RL needle. We use superficial, short, fast dashed lines in one direction (toward ourselves). The angle of pigment introduction is 45°. The contour should not be tight.

Photo 2. Sketch

2. Lip filling.

We work with needles 3, 5 RS. Coconut oil in the composition of the pigment significantly improves the glide of the needle. It is the RS-needles that bring the greatest amount of oil into the skin. We use two types of movements: short zigzags (direction towards oneself), the angle of pigment introduction is 45–70°; circular movements clockwise and counterclockwise, the angle of introduction is 90 °. The tension is moderate, the speed is 100–120 bpm/s. Most often I do 2 passes.

Photo 3. After the procedure

3. Care.

On the day after the procedure and in the morning, you need to wipe your lips with a cotton pad moistened with chlorhexidine. Apply emollient cream (Vaseline) as needed. In the following days, it is no longer possible to rub. It is enough to get wet with a cotton pad moistened with chlorhexidine after eating. Apply emollient cream or lip balm until completely healed.

Immediately after the procedure, the color on the lips looks quite intense. But after healing (3-4 days), approximately 60-70% of the color is gone. It remains a light, transparent shade that looks very natural. There are no clear contours and boundaries on the mucosa of the lips. This option is ideal for those clients who want the most natural result.

Photo 4. Healed result

The material was first published in Permanent No. 2(10)/2018