Difficult situations in permanent lip makeup: solving client's problems

Alesya Khokhlova , artist, teacher of permanent make-up and artistic tattoo, founder of the school-studio of permanent make-up and artistic tattoo Millecenta (www. millecenta.com , tel.: +3 7529 171-17-71), author of the unique method "5- step-by-step training system for permanent makeup”, author of the training system Inkject technique: Ink-Technique + Inject Technique (Ink-Technique – working with color in permanent makeup), creator and developer of the system of color circles Khokhlova A. M. (color in permanent makeup)

Beautiful, natural, well-groomed, plump lips attract

the views of men and make the representatives of the stronger sex think about kisses

(from personal observations)

Dear colleagues and professionals! This article is dedicated to everyone who has faced difficult situations in permanent lip makeup. Our profession is not just art, it is knowledge in medicine, coloring, execution techniques.

Interesting work in your portfolio always attracts clients. The more professional knowledge the master has, the easier it is to achieve a positive result.

In this article, I openly share my experience and real situations from my practice. I would be glad if the information will help many masters to avoid mistakes in their work. Difficult cases in work provide an opportunity to develop and improve further, not to stand still. I am always responsible to the client for the result after skin restoration. Careful preparation is the key to mastery and the main rule in permanent makeup. Consider the stages of work in difficult situations of permanent lip makeup:

• to thoroughly understand the situation: the client’s history, whether the client has a disease on the lips, how many procedures were done, what pigment and what does not suit the client;
• how you see the final result of your work: what you should do, what pigment to use, how many procedures are required to obtain the final result, decompose the situation into stages of work.

Please note: in fixing permanent lip makeup, it is not always necessary to start with a contour. There are cases when the contour of the lips should not be worked out intensively. And remind the client that care is the most important part of the pigment stabilization process. So, let's look at some difficult cases in the lip PM. I draw your attention to the fact that all the work was done in one procedure, so in the photographs you will see the incompleteness of the final result.

Case one: PM after hemangioma removal

This case from my practice is named after a client named Zinaida. The client is a woman, 63 years old, the contour is absent due to age, partially lost on the lips as a result of removal of a hemangioma. Hemangioma is a benign neoplasm that consists of vascular tissue cells. Occurs when the walls of blood vessels grow excessively. It can also appear on capillaries, arteries and veins. There are several types of oral hemangioma.

Capillary hemangiomas occur on small blood vessels - capillaries. They look like small single or multiple spots that may protrude above the level of the skin. With a strong growth, capillary hemangioma can capture other vessels and organs. A capillary-type tumor usually does not penetrate deep into the vessel cavity. If in rare cases it grows deep, it affects the muscles and bone tissue, disrupting their basic functions. Capillary hemangioma on the lip can often be injured while eating, talking, moving mimic wrinkles, smoking, etc.

Pyogenic granuloma is a tumor that is located on the leg. It occurs singly, the size does not exceed one centimeter. The cause of such a tumor is most often an injury in which an infection enters the wound. From the neoplasm, a discharge of purulent-blood fluid can be observed. A similar swelling occurs in the lips, under the tongue and on the inside of the lips and cheeks.

Cavernous hemangioma in most cases occurs on the inner surface of the cheeks. Such a pathology is rarely visible visually. Its presence can be determined by palpation. Pay attention to the photo of the client's lips before permanent makeup (photo 1). You will see a small spot on the upper lip, on the right, blue in color, as a result of the removal of a pyogenic hemangioma. Question: how to work in this situation, how to help the client? The result of the examination of the lips: the skin is soft, thin, transparent. Client's wish: soft lip shape and calm shade. The desire of the client is always the law, if it does not contradict the rules of aesthetics.

The course of the procedure

Dear masters, if you encounter a similar situation in your practice, be very careful. Working with aging lips requires tenderness, accuracy, since in places where there is blue, the pigment is difficult to take root. Procedure steps:

• contour drawing, preliminary anesthesia;
• the main stage of work;
• detail.

Needles: 0.3, rs No. 5. At medium speed, draw the outline of the client's lips. We seal the surface by spraying from the contour to the central part of the lips, we work out the volume. Do not try to break through the contour as much as possible. It is important to make the PM of age lips in such a way that the contour smoothly changes into the color of the main surface. Gently touching, you should feel the vibration of the handle of the device on the skin, without going deep. We draw the border of the PM with Salmon # 125 Magic pigment. We use it as the main one. At the first stage, we work with watercolor technique with a 0.3 needle evenly over the entire surface. We remove the remnants of the pigment with a cotton pad. We apply A. Sivak Lime PRO emollient, which promotes soft pigment laying. At the second stage of work with the watercolor technique, we apply the Mustard # 10 pigment (diluted) with an RS 5 needle. It is important to lay this pigment with light movements. We work transparently. We correct the overall color of the lips without going beyond the contour that we have fixed. Due to the fact that the client does not have a clear shape of natural lips, the work is done in layers, gradually forming a shade, shape, volume. We apply accompanying anesthesia. Next, we use the Qolora Desert Rose 105 pigment. We put this pigment in several passes with a 0.3 needle, fill the entire surface of the area being worked on densely and superficially. We work easily, without pressure. Pay attention to the blue area of the client's lips. In no case should this area bleed during the procedure. Most often during the PM, this place can give a transparent blue. If you have worked correctly , the blue of this area can be worked out again with Mustard #10 pigment more densely before using the Qolora Desert Rose 105 pigment in the work. dense styling did not show through the yellow tint. We apply a drop of accompanying anesthesia, complete the F ull lips 4 Magic with a 0.3 needle. At the end of the procedure, the lips will be very bright (as it should be) as a result of the layer-by-layer application of pigments. The bottom pigment should highlight the top one you are laying. If you performed the PM correctly in stages and technology, the lips after healing will acquire a pink, calm color, without a clear outline, the volume and shape will be perfect after one procedure (photo 2). You can carry out an additional procedure (correction), but not earlier than after 1.5–2 months. Lip care - regular moisturizing with hygienic lipstick. It is important to accompany the client in post-procedural care.

In this case, the most important thing is to feel the depth of pigment application and not confuse the stages of pigment application (which pigment should be laid first, what should be next). Each of the pigments that was used in the work will perform its function. Imagine that you use several types of transparent fabric in your work in order to get the desired shade on the lips in permanent makeup. The bluer the lips, the harder the job. If the blueness of the lips is natural, this is one technique, if we correct blue lips after the PM of another master, this is another technique. Permanent make-up after traumatization of the lips, in this case, hemangiomas, is a job that should be neat, superficial, with layer-by-layer application of pigment.

The material was first published in Permanent No. 3(11)/2018