Camouflage: sophisticated technology of permanent lip makeup

Alesya Khokhlova , artist, teacher of permanent make-up and artistic tattoo, founder of the school-studio of permanent make-up and artistic tattoo Millecenta (www. millecenta.com , tel.: +3 7529 171-17-71, millecenta.com@gmail.com ), author of the unique technique "5-step system of teaching permanent makeup", author of the INKJECT training system: Ink-Technique + InjectTechnique (Ink-Technique - working with color in permanent makeup with practical application), creator and developer of the system of color circles Khokhlova A M. (color in permanent makeup)

We continue the topic of working with problem lips and in this material we will analyze the "tandem" of the PM master and the dermatologist. After all, some skin diseases and formations are a direct contraindication to the procedure, a taboo for injury with a needle. How to “bypass” dangerous areas and still give the client beautiful lips?

*By the way, this important topic will be discussed at the Master Course "School of Aesthetic Dermopigmentation" , which will be held in Kiev on September 9-10. Program details and registration are on the website .

Any vascular pathology of the skin is a signal of trouble for the entire vascular system of the body. If you observe dilated vessels on the surface of the skin of the face (the capillary pattern is pronounced, there are spider veins), this indicates that the same changes exist in deep vessels.

Especially often, vascular pathology in clients manifests itself in the form of vascular moles. They form irregularly shaped spots and have a characteristic reddish, reddish-bluish, purple color. Most often they appear on the face, closer to the oral cavity, lips, less often on the limbs and vascular membranes.

Photo 1. Vascular pathology in the form of vascular moles

Violation of the vascular function can lead to common diseases such as rosacea, hemangioma, telangiectasia.

Cuperosis is an expansion of capillaries with a thickening of their walls. Reasons: genetic predisposition, smoking, stress, hormonal disorders, diseases of the cardiovascular system, as well as exposure to UV radiation.

Hemangioma is most common in clients - in 10-12% of cases. On the skin of the lips it appears as a spot of bright pink, purple, reddish-blue.

Telangiectasia is an expansion of the superficial vessels of the skin - in the form of stars, nets, and possibly spots. They can be either single or multiple. This disease can also be one of the symptoms of rosacea and other connective tissue pathologies. In these cases, self-treatment of clients is strictly contraindicated.

Diseases do not go away on their own, and it is important to convey this to the client by the master. Treatment of the skin is best done in the early stages, do not delay. It depends on the stage of the disease and the individual characteristics of the organism.

As methods for eliminating skin pathologies, electrocoagulation, ozone therapy, microsclerotherapy, and radiofrequency obliteration were previously used in medical centers. In modern medicine, when compared with laser therapy, these methods have significant drawbacks, they are practically not used in practice.

A case from practice in working with vascular pathology of the lips

Pay attention to the photo of the lips of the client.

Photo 2. First consultation, before the procedure

Vascular pathology is pronounced on the upper lip. The client is tired of using cosmetics, hiding the flaws in her appearance. The girl experiences an inferiority complex and wants to eliminate defects with the help of permanent makeup.

What is the right thing to do in this case? Taking into account the fact that we are not faced with such a situation for the first time and we cooperate with many medical centers, we referred the girl for consultation and treatment to the LODE medical center (Minsk), where there is a Multiline multifunctional laser that allows you to effectively remove dilated vessels without affecting surrounding tissues. Under the influence of the laser, the walls of the blood vessel are glued together, the dilated vessel is sealed and disappears.

The main contraindications for laser treatment are:

• oncological diseases;
• diabetes mellitus in the stage of decompensation;
• mental illness;
• pregnancy, lactation;
• the presence of a pacemaker.

It should be noted that the procedure is safe, non-invasive, highly effective. The number of procedures, contraindications are determined together with the doctor at the reception. As a rule, this procedure is performed by a highly qualified surgeon.

A few months after the treatment, our client again turned to us for a consultation, having in her hands the documentary confirmation of the clinic “Permission for the permanent make-up procedure”. Without the consent of the doctor, we do not provide PM service in such cases.

As you can see, the client benefited from the treatment.

Photo 3. After laser treatment

The "Permit for the procedure of permanent make-up" strictly states in which area permanent make-up can be used, and in which area we have the opportunity to camouflage the surface of the lips. I can disappoint you: according to the results of the conclusion of a surgeon, we are not able to completely paint over the entire surface of the lips .

In our case, the PM procedure can be performed only on the lower lip, the left half of the upper lip, behind the contour of the right part of the upper lip from the center - skin toning.

The main stages of work are schematically shown in the photo. Behind the black outline of the upper lip, we will carry out toning. Behind the white contour of the upper lip (going down the surface) - paint over the left half of the upper lip. We increase the contour of the lower lip and paint over its surface, giving volume.

Photo 4. Healed result

Pigments used in the work

Qolora:

• Camouflage 507 - beige with a hint of gray;
• Camouflage 506 - one tone darker than Camouflage 505;
• Camouflage 508 - dark brown to create a mix;
• C-White 603 - white corrector;
• C-Green-Brow 604 - green-brown corrector for creating a mix;
• Yellow 425 is a very thick pigment, just to create a mix.

For PM lips:

• Camouflage 508 - dark brown;
• Borsch 113 - rich beet red (my favorite)
• Yellow 425 - to add to the mix.

The main steps of the procedure are standard.

1st part of the procedure. It is important to draw a clear contour of the upper and lower lip as follows: slightly increase the left half of the upper lip, reduce the right half with vascular pathology, increase the contour of the lower lip to give volume to the lips.

Visually, the lips before the procedure should look symmetrical. The sketch must be clear and fixed. It is most important. We remember that we do not draw the contour in the right part of the upper lip with pigment after removing the application anesthesia, it is important to visually recreate it using camouflage mixes.

The PM procedure is carried out as follows: we apply application anesthesia only on the right side of the upper lip - part of the area with vascular pathology. Despite the fact that the client was undergoing treatment, in this area we do not work on the surface of the lips, we work only behind the contour.

When working with camouflage on the surface of the skin, four mixes were used: two warm tones and two cold ones. You can use more in your work, but four shades are enough to recreate the texture of the skin. The tones of the mixes should be combined with the four skin tones of the face as much as possible. Important! Pay attention to the skin color of the cheekbones, eyelids, upper lip under different lighting conditions .

We carry out the work with a wide beam needle (RS 5, 6, 7), we gradually introduce the pigment at an angle of 90 degrees strictly perpendicular to the skin.

Cotton pads, napkins are not used on this area of the skin. Only moistened cotton swabs to remove pigment residue. They will help you keep the rest of the sketch on the left half of the upper lip. We follow the procedure: we worked with the first mix, the second, third, fourth, removed the rest of the pigment. We introduce camouflage mixes in 2-3 passes, we no longer injure the skin. This part of the procedure will take you 20-30 minutes maximum.

Do not unnecessarily injure the skin area, tightly apply the pigment. These actions will not bring a positive result. The more we injure the skin, the worse the result after healing is the main rule in camouflage. Qolora pigments are dense, elastic, easy to apply, working with them is only a pleasure for the master.

2nd and 3rd part of the procedure. At the request of the client, a thin layer of primary anesthesia can be applied to the left side of the half of the upper lip and to the lower lip so that it does not affect the damaged part in the camouflage area. In our case, the work was carried out without primary anesthesia in the 2nd and 3rd regions (see photo of the work stages above). Primary anesthesia was used only in the field of vascular pathology. Permanent make-up at the second (painting over the left half of the upper lip) and the third stages (permanent make-up of the lower lip) was carried out only with the use of accompanying anesthesia.

Previously, a mix was prepared based on pigments: Camouflage 508, Borsch 113, Yellow 425. With a 0.3 needle, we fix the contour of the volume of the lips superficially, without going deep. In the process of applying the main color, an RS 7 needle was used, initially a watercolor technique was used, the color of the lips was compacted to the contour.

My task in the process of work is to minimize the color of the lips to the color on the surface of the vascular pathology, so that after healing, the client's lips acquire an even outline visually along the contour and along the surface.

The goal that I set for myself as a master is to create visually even lips of a saturated shade, without a strict contour, using light camouflage technology, watercolor technique, dense surface paint. Thanks to the brightness of the Qolora pigments and correctly composed mixes for drawing the left half of the upper lip, filling the lower lip with an increase in volume, four mixes in toning the skin behind the area of the vascular pathology of the lips, the result after healing satisfied the wishes of my client.

Photo 5. Lips after the procedure

Secondary procedure : the contour of the lips was worked out with a 5 RS beam needle, additionally we add color to the surface of the lower lip.

Photo 6. Healed result

Permanent makeup is not always a work with a beautiful face without flaws. Increasingly, in practice, I encounter customer problems, carry out correction procedures. Sometimes I resort to the help of doctors and cosmetologists, laser and remover. Every permanent makeup artist must strive for perfection.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FOR MASTERS

Dear Colleagues, The following information describes only the most typical behavior of infantile hemangiomas. The growth rate of education and the severity of the phases may differ for clients.

The development of each hemangioma is individual. In this regard, the master of permanent makeup needs to be extremely careful when carrying out procedures in difficult cases.

Most typically develop infantile hemangiomas. Immediately before the PM, it is difficult to determine them.

Latent phase: The hemangioma may be invisible or appear as a flat, pinkish or slightly bluish patch.

Phase of initial manifestations. On the 3rd–4th week (after PM), an active blood supply develops in the hemangioma, the formation begins to protrude above the level of the skin of the lips. The client feels a bulge inside, and we can observe a slight manifestation from the outside. The client may complain that after the PM the lips feel a bulge, perhaps some kind of ball, the color of which will differ from the main color of the client's lips. It is important to pay attention to this and refer the client to a specialist in a medical center. Usually the appearance of hemangioma is associated with changes in this phase.

phase of active growth. In the following months, intensive development of hemangioma microvessels occurs, which is manifested by the rapid growth of the formation. Some hemangiomas, located, for example, on the skin of the perineum or near the mouth, during the period of active growth are complicated by long-term non-healing ulceration and infection. It is this phase of the development of infantile hemangioma that accounts for the bulk of the requests of clients after PM for medical help, and it is during this period that a qualified assessment of the risk of complications and the risk of aesthetic damage to the client is very important. The decision on tactics in relation to one or another hemangioma is made jointly with the master and the client, taking into account the location of the formation, size, growth rate and expected changes in subsequent phases of development.

The growth of infantile hemangiomas, located more superficially, may stop by 4–6 months after PM, with deeply located formations, the period of active growth usually lasts longer.

Maturity or stabilization phase . After active growth (if the client has a hemangioma), from about 4–6 months of age to a year, the growth of the formation may stop, the blood supply becomes less intense, the surface layer shrinks, and the color changes. In such a stable form, hemangioma can be about 6-12 months. The client comes for a consultation, procedure and indicates that the spot or formation is stable.

The phase of reverse development, or involution . The process of resorption of hemangioma can begin in a period of several months. In any case, the master of permanent makeup must have a doctor's report on hand, which indicates that there are no contraindications for permanent makeup in this area.

I will be very pleased if the information you received is useful in the practice of permanent makeup. I wish you all positive clients, success and career growth. With love for the art of permanent makeup, Millecenta (Alesya Khokhlova).

List of additional literature:

1. Anisimova IV Diseases of the mucous membrane of the mouth and lips. Clinic, diagnostics: textbook / IV Anisimova. - M., 2005. - S. 3.
2. Brusenina N. D. Diseases of the lips / N. D. Brusenina, E. A. Rybalkina. – M.: MIA, 2005. – 186 p.
3. Vano M. Aesthetic medicine. Lip classification / M. Vano // Aesthetic medicine . - 2002. - V. 1, No. 3. - S. 184–188.
4. Vinogradov I. Yu . Clinical and morphological prognostic factors in cancer of the lower lip and their impact on treatment outcomes: author. dis. PhD / I. Yu. Vinogradov. - Ryazan, 2003. - 22 p.

The material was first published in Permanent No. 1(13)/2019