Arrow shapes in permanent eyelid makeup

Natalia Datsyuk , PM master, professional make-up artist, national PM expert, trainer-speaker of international conferences, author of her own PM techniques, founder of School & Studio Permanent (Lutsk), official distributor of A&I Schendel in Ukraine

Each face is individual. The shape of the nose, the shape of the face, the shape of the eyebrows, lips and eyes. Each of us has a different facial expression, asymmetry in features. Each has advantages and disadvantages. And if the PM master knows all the tricks of drawing a sketch, he will be able to skillfully manipulate the forms and achieve beautiful results.

Given the features of the eyes, I have identified some of the most basic shapes of the arrows.

1. Classic arrow. Ideal for accentuating almond-shaped eyes. The task is to repeat the correct natural bend of the eyelid, slightly stretch the outer corner of the eye. Arrow of medium width, with a thickening in the bend zone (direction ⎼ from the middle to the outer corner of the eye). The area of inter-eyelash filling does not go beyond the growth of eyelashes.

2. Thin arrow. Perfect for those who want minimal eye makeup. The task is to delicately emphasize the correct line of the eyes, slightly lengthen the line of the eyelid, without giving a strong accent to the eyes. A thin arrow visually stretches the line of the eyelid, ideal for small, roundish, almond-shaped and deep-set eyes. Little accentuate the slit-like eye. Absolutely not suitable for a large bulging eye: in comparison with its size, it will seem tiny, and the eye will look even larger.

3. Arrow for the Asian century. Can also be used for slit eyes. The task is to make the eyelid line more visible, to open the eyes. Relatively thick arrow. Characterized by a thickening of its middle. Add thickness to the top, thereby visually opening the narrow eye. Accordingly, in the bend zone, the shape of the arrow becomes slightly narrower, the upper and lower lines of the bend zone are parallel.

4. Arrow for round and bulging eyes. The task is to make the line of the eyelid more straight. Ideally, when the top curve is straighter, it won't accentuate the roundness of the eye. In the zone of bending, the arrow is much wider than in the zone of inter-ciliary filling. In the latter, thickening along the top is undesirable. It is also undesirable to extend the length of the inner line of the arrow to the very corner, so as not to emphasize the excessive roundness of the eyes. For rounded, bulging eyes, it is ideal to paint over 1/2 of the thickness of the inner line of the upper eyelid (under the lash line). If the line is very massive, paint over almost its entire thickness. This is a very good way to get rid of the rounded eyelid line. Often masters make the mistake of thickening the arrow from the top in the middle. With this shape of the eyes, this is strictly prohibited. It is also unacceptable to make a long arrow specifically for a convex eye, in this case it is better to make a shorter arrow so that the eye looks neat, harmonious, and not separate from the arrow.

5. Arrow for the lowered eyelid. The task is to raise the outer corner of the eye. To visually raise the eye, you need to make the bottom line of the bend zone angular. The lateral line of the tip of the arrow ⎼ is as flat as possible to create a visible rise. Roundness in this area will only lower the outer edge of the eyelid and will not create the correct shape of the arrow. Ideally combined with shading.

6. Arrow with shading on the outer corner of the eye. Suitable for small, close-set, narrow eyes, as well as for lowering the outer corner of the eye (“crying” eye). The task is to raise the outer corner of the eyes, to enlarge the eyes. Ideal for lowering a fixed eyelid.

7. Arrow with shading along the entire length of the eyelid. The task is to make the eyelid line more noticeable, darken the volume of the eye, make the arrow line softer. Recommended for large eyes to visually reduce their bulge. Also suitable for wide-set eyes. With a narrow arrow or only inter-eyelash filling, this shading will create the effect of fluffy eyelashes.

The Canons of Sketching

You also need to remember the basic rules for sketching arrows:

• with close-set eyes, we do not reach the line of the zone of inter-ciliary filling to the inner corner of the eye;

• with far-set eyes, do not make elongated arrows, shading in the outer corner of the eye. A short arrow will do with shading along the entire length and with an emphasis on the line of inter-ciliary filling to the inner corner of the eye;

• with deep-set eyes, not the best way to use shadows, especially large ones. A neat arrow is enough. A slight shading is allowed;

• to make bulging eyes visually look smaller, it is ideal to make a short feathered arrow, without elongation at the outer corner of the eyelid. It is also not recommended to emphasize the lower line of the eyelid, as this will visually make the eye look very round;

• the round eye should be slightly extended. The arrow should thicken from the middle of the eye to the outer corner. But do not make the arrow in this area very thick. An arrow of medium thickness will ideally be complemented by a slight shading ⎼ so the eye will look more light and harmonious;

• with lowered motionless eyelids, you should not make thin elongated arrows, as this will visually increase the volume of the impending eyelid. In this case, a short thin arrow will be ideally combined with shading;

• a heavy eyelid should not be confused with an impending one. Here you can slightly lengthen the arrow and add shading with a slight emphasis on the middle of the eye;

• eyes with lowered outer corners will be raised by an arrow that starts from the middle of the eye. It is not necessary to accentuate the inner part of the eyes at all, so as not to add height in the area of \u200b\u200bexiliar filling. A good combination of arrows with shading ⎼ will perfectly help to lift the outer corner of the eye;

• eyes with raised outer corners will be decorated with a thin straight arrow without an elongated end, so as not to make the outer corner of the eyes even more raised. Also, do not stretch the line of inter-ciliary filling to the inner corner of the eye: in this case, the emphasis on the inner line will also make the end of even a straight arrow more elevated.