Smokey Ice: top 3 color schemes for spring and how to repeat them

At the international OMC Hairworld 2020 championship from the ABC team, Anastasia took fourth place in the Smoky eyes category, so who else, if not her, should understand all the intricacies of creating spectacular eye makeup. Today we are talking about different options for creating smokey eyes, which are trending this spring.

Anastasia Gnitko , Makeup artist, Brow&Lashes master

In every job, skin preparation is very important to me: before applying makeup, I thoroughly cleanse the model’s or client’s skin, after which I apply skin care and makeup base. Only after this I apply the tone using blending movements, gradually layering it so as not to overload the skin.

I correct with cream and dry products. For the softest and most natural effect, I duplicate cream products with dry ones. I often shape my eyebrows with gel and a thin wax pencil, carefully drawing out the hairs.

This spring, natural shades are popular in eye makeup, and gray, dusty and neon-pastel color schemes are also in fashion. I’ll tell you in more detail about three variations of colored smokey that are worth repeating this season. All three works were made on color substrates, when choosing which I was guided by the intensity of the makeup, as well as the shade of the shadows in the future.

Gray smokey eyes

In this makeup, I used a cool nude cream base on the upper eyelid and black sparkle on the lower eyelid. Then I applied silver sparkle to the apple of my eyelid.

I intensively colored the interlashes and shaded them to the outer corner of the eye. I duplicated it with dark shadows. Finally, I added a cool shade of eyeshadow into the crease and pulled it towards the eyebrows.

On the lips I applied a pencil in a nude shade and a gloss that was a lighter tone.

Burgundy smokey

When creating the image for the OMC championship, I was inspired by the marine theme, colors, and textures. I was also inspired by cosmetics, accessories and the work of other makeup artists.

In this smokey eye makeup, I worked on a black cream base, painting the interlash line in advance. Then I secured the base with burgundy matte shadows on the upper and lower eyelids, carefully extending the shade towards the temple.

I painted the lower mucous membrane with burgundy eyeliner. I added a blue pencil to the inner corner and secured it with duochrome sparkle. I glued ribbon eyelashes on.

I applied a transparent glossy gloss to my lips.

Beige smokey eyes

In a smokey eye with an arrow, I worked on a cream base in a warm peach shade. I secured it with pearlescent shadows close to a beige shade and applied satin shadows into the crease, gradually layering and extending it towards the temple.

On the lower eyelid I used matte brown shades. I painted the interlash line with brown kajal and pulled it out into a shaded arrow towards the temple. Fixed it with shadows.

I applied moisturizing peach lipstick to my lips.

We also turned to coach Lyudmila Bednarskaya, who prepared Anastasia for participation in the championship, for comments, to figure out how to achieve victory and what mistakes are important to avoid.

Lyudmila Bednarskaya , makeup artist with 16 years of experience, international class master, coach of the Ukrainian national team, ABC judge, bronze medalist of the Ukrainian championship, medalist of the European championship (Moscow, 2010), best coach of Ukraine (2014), founder of the Bednarska Beauty Center, image designer (Lviv)

A non-standard image helped Anastasia’s work stand out among others, because an interesting idea is very important. The coach’s task is precisely to select the best idea and help refine it technically.

The creative accessories that the participant made herself, the model’s appearance and makeup – everything was thought out to the last detail. The image is bold, unlike others. Anastasia took a risk and won!

What features of preparation for the online championship can you highlight?

In offline championships, during the preparation stage, many people are involved who help create the image, but on the podium the participant is left alone with his emotions. And it happens that during training everything was great and the image was great, but the master got worried, couldn’t control himself and didn’t do the job well.

In the online championship, the team of trainers, hair stylist and designer also includes a photographer. And it is very important to find a specialist who, during post-processing, can accurately convey all the shades that were used live and choose the right light.

Tell us about the main mistakes in the nomination that participants often make.

My students and I always pay a lot of attention to the image, because this is what the judges pay attention to first of all, and if the makeup is technically complex and clean, there is every chance of success! This is how our coach Taisiya Vasilyeva taught us.

Makeup should decorate the model, and not just be a product on the face. It must be modern, because where else, if not at creative competitions, can you safely express yourself.

If we are talking about an online championship, a lot depends on the correct choice of the photographer, as well as on how well the participant can explain what exactly should be in the photo.