Makeup for deep-set eyes: main rules, tips and mistakes

Olesya Koryakina, a professional makeup artist with extensive experience, and also a member of the jury of our project Pro Beauty Battle: Makeup . We invite everyone to join the competition in a new format to express themselves, catch inspiration, and also win professional prizes from our partners.

Today we are talking about a very relevant topic - about makeup for clients with deep-set eyes. Does this form require a special approach when performing makeup, what recommendations should be taken into account, and what, on the contrary, should not be done in any case - says our expert.

Olesya Koryakina , makeup artist, make-up artist for the morning show “Rank with Ukraine”

on the TV channel "Ukraine"

What kind of eyes can be called deep-set?

They appear to be pressed into the socket of the eye, causing the upper eyelid to look short and small. Protruding eyes, on the other hand, literally protrude outward from the socket towards the upper lash line. Deep-set eyes are often located quite close to the nose.

Owners of such eyes and their makeup artists are looking for ways to visually correct this feature. Sometimes it looks harmonious, but if you absolutely need to bring the proportions of a girl’s face closer to the so-called golden ratio, you should know how to do it correctly and accurately.

What makeup tricks and techniques are suitable for deep-set eyes?

With the help of various cosmetics - eyeliners, shadows, pencils and even false eyelashes - we seem to stretch the eyes to the temples, shifting all the accents towards the outer corners of the eyes and even beyond them.

Smokey eyes, made in the same color scheme, are more likely to emphasize the location of the eyes, and various “cat” techniques and even arrows that widen from the inner corner of the eye to the outer will help to neutralize this feature.

The standard scheme for working with deep-set eyes looks like this: we lighten the inner corner of the eye, darken the outer corner and the crease of the upper eyelid, use eyeliner closer to the outer corner, shade the dark shade beyond the eyelid and extend it towards the temples. By the way, you can enhance the effect with the help of several bunches of false eyelashes, they will make the look even more cat-like.

Don't forget about the eyebrows - you don't want them to have a too obvious, aggressive bend. It is better to create a smooth curve a little closer to the outer edge of the eyebrow - this will add the desired effect.

What shades of shadows to choose and how to apply them correctly?

If we talk about color and shadows, here I can give such recommendations. Choose shadows in natural shades - with their help you can visually enlarge the upper eyelid. Light colors will help correct too-deep-set eyes. Shiny and pearlescent pigmenting products will perfectly complement evening and wedding makeup. Makeup with a predominance of light shades looks very natural and relaxed.

You can also use those shades that suit your client’s eyes specifically based on her color type. And it is precisely for deep-set eyes that a makeup technique is perfect, in which the inner corner of the eye is quite clearly highlighted, and the outer corner is darkened.

If you want to make an accent, it is better to highlight your lips. In makeup, use no more than three shades of eyeshadow, otherwise you risk ruining your appearance. It is better if these are light, medium and rich (not dark) colors.

Star beauties with deep-set eyes

A striking representative of deep-set eyes is Svetlana Loboda. She likes to highlight them with pronounced arrows, because they help to correctly correct the shape of the eyes so that the makeup looks perfect.

Deep-set eyes are quite common, for example in celebrities such as Kate Moss, Keira Knightley, Claudia Schiffer, Cate Blanchett and Eva Green. With this feature of the facial structure, the eyes seem sunken, “pressed” inward, and the upper movable eyelid almost completely disappears from view. Therefore, the main task when creating makeup for deep-set eyes is to “bring” them to the fore.

How to use mascara and false eyelashes correctly in this case?

If we talk about eyelashes with deep-set eyes, they play an important role. You can paint your eyelashes thickly in several layers, but you should pay more attention to the outer corners of your eyes rather than the inner ones. If the client's lower eyelashes are naturally long, you can tint them slightly to make the eyes look more voluminous.

False eyelashes are also highly recommended: long eyelashes perfectly “stretch” the eyes, which is very important when working with this shape.

What makeup techniques and techniques are contraindicated for deep-set eyes?

Never add dark shades of eyeshadow to the crease of your eyelid - this will only make the situation worse.

Smokey eyes, made in the same color scheme, will only emphasize the location of the eyes, so it is better to abandon this idea.

You should not use sharp breaks when shaping your eyebrows and when drawing arrows. Bend lines should be smooth.