Skin types in cosmetology

Revered, but seeming strange to us today, the fashion of past centuries served the same purposes as modern cosmetology - to emphasize beauty by correcting imperfections.

The modern vision and concept of beauty, of course, is completely different, but scientific discoveries are the result of the experimental and intuitive path of our ancestors. Paths from Ancient Egypt - the cradle of cosmetology and the slaves of Ancient Greece, skillfully decorating faces and bodies, who were called cosmetists; from Hippocrates, the father of medicine, who wrote down many recipes for cosmetics, and his student Diocles, who created a cosmetic recipe in four volumes; from the first textbook on cosmetics systematized by the Roman physician Galen, in which he divided it into those suitable for masking cosmetic imperfections (i.e., makeup) and cosmetics for preserving natural beauty, for the first time emphasizing the connection between cosmetics and medicine - until the time when an outstanding medieval doctor and scientist Avicenna pointed out the relationship between the health of internal organs and skin condition. And only by the 19th century cosmetology became a scientific discipline about methods and means that improve a person’s appearance.

Coco Chanel, who taught women to “wear” not only perfume, but also herself as an individual, unprecedentedly characterized the trendsetters of the beauty industry: “There is only one Mademoiselle in the world - that’s me, only one Madame is Rubinstein, and only one Miss is Ardennes." After all, it was thanks to Elena Rubinstein that the classification of skin types as a subject of targeted attention was born. And Elizabeth Arden taught how to take care of your face, introducing the concept of a three-step system: cleansing, moisturizing and nourishing.

Not a single person can boast of an ideal appearance, but with the help of certain means and procedures it is quite possible to make timely adjustments to what is given to us by nature. When choosing a salon care procedure or home remedies, cosmetologists, first of all, focus on what type of skin they are intended for, and many are absolutely sure that this will help make the right choice. Indeed, dividing skin into types has been the basis for choosing a skin care regimen for so long that it has begun to seem like an unshakable postulate of cosmetology.

What do we know about skin types, do we know how to determine them? Probably, most cosmetologists, without hesitation, will answer this question by saying: dry, oily, combination or normal. Most Western experts consider this traditional classification to be far from reality.

The skin is the largest organ of our body, a reliable protector from aggressive environmental influences, a “smart” case for internal organs, a well-coordinated mechanism that performs many functions and a kind of age-related “passport” of health.

The structure of the skin and its main features (color and characteristics of hair and skin) are the same for all people and are determined genetically, as is the type of skin, the general picture of which is acquired and remains unchanged after puberty. A person was born with a certain type, and it is this type of skin that will accompany him throughout his life; it is impossible to change it. If you inherit beautiful skin, then in order to look good, you only need to take care of it. Well, if you had dense, porous skin in your youth, then at 30 and 50 years old it will remain the same and you will never be able to make it thin, with barely noticeable pores. With age, the condition of any skin changes in correlation with changes in the functioning of the whole organism and its individual systems. For example, from the age of 30, the activity of the sebaceous glands and the synthesis of epidermal lipids decreases, as a result, any skin becomes drier with age, and from the age of 40, almost all renewal processes slow down altogether.

The main features of each type differ from each other in the quantity and quality of fat and moisture produced by the skin.

Oily skin

Oily skin is the easiest to recognize: the sebaceous glands, the largest number of which are located on the face, scalp, décolleté, and back, produce excessive amounts of sebum. Its characteristics:

• anatomically the skin is dense, sometimes rough in appearance, with a developed dermis containing a large number of large sebaceous glands, the pores are enlarged;
• hypersecretion of the sebaceous glands - characterized by an oily sheen all over the face;
• tendency to comedones;
• causes many problems at a young age, and is not prone to the appearance of small facial wrinkles .
  ​

There are two types of oily skin, depending on the composition of sebum.

Liquid form of seborrhea - the composition of sebum is dominated by unsaturated fatty acids and cholesterol, which interact with moisture. The skin is greasy and shiny. The pores are large, crater-shaped, but shallow and empty. Fat flows freely from the pores without clogging them; there are no subcutaneous elements in this type. Skin moisture is normal. This subtype is characterized by low sensitivity to chemical irritations, but reactivity to mechanical influences. Therefore, classic facial massage, rough mechanical peels, microdermabrasion, and brosage are contraindicated for such skin. Liquid seborrhea is accompanied by an integral epidermal barrier, since the necessary fatty acids are present in sufficient quantities to constantly replenish and restore defects in the water-lipid mantle.

Thick form of seborrhea - the composition of sebum is dominated by saturated thick fatty acids. Due to the low content of polyunsaturated acids, the consistency of sebum becomes very viscous and dry, most of it remains in the pores and does not come to the surface of the skin, especially in the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin). Dense blockage of pores creates plugs. Comedones and inflammations of all types feel very comfortable on such skin and bloom magnificently. Often the skin is matte and hardly oily, which leads to strong evaporation of moisture, as with dry skin. It is the owners of this skin type who most often emphasize that “skin is oily in summer and dry in winter.” This happens because in the summer, due to the high air temperature, fat tends to melt and come to the surface more easily. For such situations there is a special designation - a skin condition, which can vary.

Combination or mixed skin

This is the most common concept. This type of skin does not exist, but there is a concept. As a rule, when they cannot figure out what type a given skin is, it is called combination. Dry type and oily type cannot be mixed on the same person's face. A combination of oily skin subtypes is expected: for example, oily skin on the forehead, nose and chin, but not causing problems on the cheeks, or normal forehead and cheeks, but a shiny nose, etc. Characteristic:

• the skin is thick, rough;
• combines areas of two subtypes of oily skin;
• with normal moisture production, the water-lipid mantle is heterogeneous
• in the T-zone the pores are enlarged, in other areas they are hardly noticeable;
• sebum secretion is increased, especially in the T-zone;
• comedones, milia and inflammatory elements of a cyclical nature are periodically bothered;
• combination skin can cause problems in youth up to 25-35 years old, but is not prone to premature aging;
• requires different ways of caring for different parts of the face.

Dry skin

Dry skin is the complete opposite of oily skin. This type of skin is more sensitive and can appear in women who do not protect their face from the harmful effects of environmental factors, consume insufficient amounts of water for the body, etc. Its characteristics:

• anatomically, the skin is thin, delicate, often slightly pigmented, with small sebaceous glands and thin subcutaneous fat, inflammatory processes are often absent, but there may be open comedones in the nasal area and paraorbital milia;
• pores are small, almost invisible;
• sebum and sweating are reduced - the skin does not shine, due to the rapid evaporation of moisture, the skin becomes dull;
• a heterogeneous hydrolipidic film provokes redness, a feeling of dryness, tightness or flaking, especially after washing;
• In youth, dry skin is beautiful and usually does not cause trouble, but after 25 years, expression lines appear. The small thickness of the dermis and the small amount of melanin, which does not provide adequate protection from UV radiation, predetermine the tendency to early aging;
• It is with this type that neurodermatitis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, etc. most often develop.

Normal skin

The standard for ideal skin is “like a baby’s.” This is what they say about smooth, clean and elastic skin, in which there is enough moisture, and all biological processes proceed normally. This type is rare and only occurs in young people who have not reached puberty. Washing brings complete satisfaction to the owner, and good tolerance of cosmetic products is pleasing. Characteristics:

• healthy epidermis - the skin is matte, evenly colored, of normal density, fresh, elastic, no flaws;
• pores are small, barely noticeable in the central part of the face;
• sebum secretion is normal, provides optimal lubrication of the skin surface, so only a slight shine is characteristic in the T-zone. Good level of moisture, i.e. the proportions of fat and water are harmonious. The hydrolipid film is intact and intact;
• high resistance to external stimuli, the condition does not change;
• Normal skin does not bother you at a young age and, with proper care, ages gradually.

How to diagnose and establish skin type? A visual analysis is carried out, and if diagnostic devices are available, information is studied about what was given by nature and what problems arose from improper care, lifestyle and the influence of internal and external factors.

First published: Cosmetologist No. 6, 2017