"Liquid laser" - an alternative to peelings

Danne Montague-King , Doctor of Biochemistry and Pharmacology, founder of DMK (USA)

Cosmetics manufacturers are constantly telling modern cosmetologists and aestheticians that peeling is the best procedure when it comes to removing wrinkles, hyperpigmentation or superficial scars. The truth is: removing dead skin cells is only the first step in effectively transforming your skin.

New skin cells are controlled in part by desmosomes . The proliferation of new skin cells occurs according to a specific pattern, or rhythm. When the skin is under aggressive attack from strong acids, lasers or microdermabrasion systems, desmosomes release new cells that rush to the surface of the skin to protect it. This happens much faster than in normal mode. The result is usually controlled scarring instead of normal skin revision.

An alternative to standard peeling procedures is a system that simultaneously renews the skin and works perfectly as an enzyme lifting.

Principle of operation

Although I have researched many alternative removal systems, there is a procedure that is similar in results to CO2 lasers , but without the temporary contraindications and possible hypopigmentation that typically accompany laser surgery. I call this technique "Liquid Laser" and find it very effective in both removing and rebuilding skin due to its high vitamin A content.

Vitamin A has long been used for cell renewal purposes, both taken orally and applied topically, especially in the case of acne. Over the years, vitamin A derivatives, retinoids, have been used as exfoliants. The popular drug Retin-A has swept across America, leaving many cases of damaged skin in its wake because it was used by patients with contraindications to tretinoin.

Retinoids come in different strengths, and each one affects the skin differently. Tretinoin is the most powerful of these, which is why it has drug status in the United States. But the strongest does not always mean the most effective. Other combinations of retinoids, more optimally selected without contraindications, can gently remove dead cells and provide energy that helps cellular DNA keep the cell alive much longer. Certain retinoids, in combination with vitamin C, stimulate new collagen fibers, which in turn plump and tighten sagging skin.

The retinoid family consists of tretinoin, retinyl, retinal, retinoic acid and retinol . There are other combinations, but the ones listed are the main ones. When used in combination with beta-carotene, retinyl palmitate, a small amount of resorcinol and potassium sorbate, retinol becomes an excellent non-invasive means of removing the upper layers of the epidermis. Further research has shown that if these ingredients are mixed into a transdermal lotion (with a water-soluble plant liquid base), then when used daily, the entire formula will remain in the skin for many hours, gently removing dead cells from the epidermis while delivering the regenerative power of vitamin A to new ones. , living cells. Typically, patients apply this dual-action retinoic lotion to the skin at home, after the initial procedure in the clinic, and then a specialist performs a final lift-off (exfoliating) effect.

Transformation magic

Conversion means combining two or more ingredients together where when applied to the skin they change into another ingredient or start working in the skin through its own enzymatic processes. Beta-carotene is not toxic to skin cells in any concentration, but does not automatically become vitamin A while it is inside the skin (or body). Once the skin's own enzyme processes convert it into vitamin A, it is deposited in sufficient quantities in the cell membranes, increasing its lifespan and promoting the exfoliation of dead cells. This is essentially a “delete and restore” action.

The essence of the procedure

Before the Liquid Laser procedure, the patient’s skin is cleansed with a low pH product, preferably with natural surfactants. These types of cleansers often use extracts of white oak, yucca, and other types of saponins.

After cleansing, a compress is applied. Apply a weak solution of a low pH AHA mixture to the face, neck, décolleté and even the tops of the palms if necessary. Surgical cotton swabs are preferred for this step. They provide better control of the penetration of AHA acids into deep wrinkles than brushes, and they also look more professional. The serum should not rely entirely on glycolic acid, since the latter, having a small molecular size, can unpredictably enter the nostrils, mouth or even eyes and cause irritation.

I have found that the combination of lactic, glycolic and malic acids makes the best serum. Adding a small amount of citric acid helps maintain hydration levels in the skin, as AHAs are hygroscopic in nature and dehydrate the skin. The pH level of such serums should not exceed 3.02. If the pH rises significantly, the AHAs will convert to organic salts and will be ineffective on the skin.

After applying the serum to the face, neck, and décolleté, cover the affected area with plastic wrap for 10 minutes. After the exposure time has expired, thoroughly rinse off the serum and wipe the skin.

Next step: apply the Liquid Laser retinoic lotion with light massaging movements to the areas that were under the compress. The feeling of itching at this moment is a normal reaction, which means that the ganglia (nerve endings) react to the massage and the chemical effect of the drug.

If this procedure is carried out on a sunny day, it is recommended to apply a transdermal sunscreen with SPF 30. The Liquid Laser procedure is very active, although not traumatic. Any active impact on skin cells will cause pigmentation problems if exposed to the sun. Under the influence of solar radiation, instead of active products, decay products (free radicals) appear on the skin, which irritate and injure the skin.

Home care includes applying retinoic lotion every night. For about two days, the patient will not notice any changes in the skin or severe peeling, but the skin may darken and take on a yellowish tint. The patient should be warned about this. The skin around your eyes and mouth will suddenly begin to look much more wrinkled and older, which will be noticeable to others. But there is no need to worry: these are old, dead cells of the stratum corneum, and everything that is dead and dry, of a protein nature, darkens and looks wrinkled. This is a sign that the treatment is effective, and not at all “spoiled” skin, as many patients think, and not a reason for panic. And many people may panic even after an explanation, so a daily examination is necessary until the completion of treatment.

Usually, by the 7-10th day of daily use of Liquid Laser lotion, the patient begins to notice completely new, pink and dense skin emerging from under the old epidermis, which is exfoliated during water and hygiene measures. Moreover, the older the patient, the faster the result appears.

Case study

So, I had a 30-year-old patient from Germany who needed 17 days for complete exfoliation. When she started treatment, she only had a couple of shallow wrinkles and uneven, rough skin. By the tenth day, she looked like she was 60 years old, and her husband called me in Los Angeles, furious and panicked. I reassured him and promised to talk to the doctor who carried out the treatment, an expert from our research team in Germany. About a week later the patient had a final lift-off treatment and her skin began to look like porcelain, and a few weeks later I received a gift of a beautiful porcelain vase from her grateful husband.

First published: Les Nouvelles Esthetiques Ukraine, No. 3 (85), 2014