Lipidomics: application in cosmetology

Yulia Gagarina, chemical technologist, developer of cosmetic products (Ukraine)

Lipidomics studies cellular lipids on a broad scale. This is the study of the structure and function of the complete "package" of lipids that are produced in a particular cell or organism, as well as their relationship with other lipids, proteins and metabolites

But science is beginning to discover the most interesting things by studying the lipids of the microflora living in us. Here are just some examples of recent discoveries.

Microbial dormancy is to blame for rosacea

At the beginning of 2018, the results of an interesting double-blind randomized study . Over the course of two weeks, the facial skin microbiome was analyzed, and it was done deeply in order to find (sequence) the entire sequence of specific strains, and not groups.

It turned out that dryness and cold globally change the composition of the microbiome (qualitatively and quantitatively).

Most importantly, they discovered the role of a new microorganism ( Burrowsia cos , genus Yersinia ) in triggering rosacea

These are gram-negative rods (by the way, “relatives” of the bubonic plague), of which there are normally very few on the surface of the skin, which is why earlier old and less accurate search methods did not find them. So, in unfavorable external conditions, they simply go into hibernation, literally burrowing into the skin, which causes inflammation.

The same study looked for ways to solve the problem. It turned out that these microorganisms react to lipids on the surface of the skin, which literally entice them to stay on the surface. Work is now underway to find lipid variants that will stop Burrowsia dormancy.

Gram-negative bacilli Burrowsia cos, which are normally very few on the surface of the skin, take part in the triggering of rosacea. In unfavorable external conditions, they go into a fire, literally burrowing into the skin, which causes inflammation

So far, one such lipid has been found - in sheep wool. Yes, it doesn't smell very nice, but this strategy helps people with rosacea. More pleasant things continue to be sought.

Gum disease is associated with atherosclerosis

It is already widely believed that lipoprotein deposits on artery walls are associated with high intake of foods containing cholesterol, saturated and trans fats. But how do we explain the large percentage of people who eat these foods for decades but do not develop cardiovascular disease?

Researchers at the University of Connecticut believe they have solved part of the puzzle. Complex chemical analysis made it possible to detect lipids in patients with “signatures” different from lipids of animal origin. Molecules have an odd number of carbon atoms and branched chains (mammals don’t do this, it’s nonsense). They also have a different molecular weight from human lipids. But bacteria ( Bacteroidetes ), which normally live in the oral cavity, can.

“I call them oil bugs because they constantly shed tiny lipid bubbles that look like bunches of grapes,” says Frank Nichols, a periodontist and one of the researchers.

What does this have to do with the dentist? The fact is that the team studied bacteria that provoke inflammation of the oral cavity, and thanks to new equipment and technologies, they discovered these lipids. That is, they discovered that there is a connection between gum disease and diseases of the cardiovascular system.

Scientists suggest that the deposition of bacterial lipids proceeds in this way: immune cells, which initially settle on the walls of blood vessels and collect lipids, recognize bacterial lipids as foreign and sound an alarm (“ we have a bacterial infection here!” ), inflammation occurs, and in place invasion, enzymes must arrive that can process these lipids. But it’s not a fact that they will be, but inflammation and lipids on the walls of the arteries may remain. Next, the team will delve into research to prove this theory.

The importance of mitochondrial symbiosis

In the early 70s of the last century, American biologist Lynn Margelis discovered an important thing: we have succeeded as a species because the world is ruled by symbiosis. More than a billion years ago, one type of bacteria ate another. Or tried to. Having survived inside, the prey did not leave the predator. She turned it into her home - moist, protected by a foreign cell wall, with a rich “table” of nutrients. This cohabitation led to the fact that the internal, small bacterium began to “pay” the large bacterium for “a table and a roof over its head” - it began to convert oxygen and food into energy. In the end, the bacteria even swapped their DNA segments for convenience and merged into one complex cell. This is how our common ancestor appeared, which eventually evolved into multicellular humans. We still see the descendants of the prey bacteria everywhere: in plants these are chloroplasts, and we also carry the descendants of the bacteria within us – mitochondria. They still retain their own gene code (DNA, which is close to bacteria) and still pay us for the convenience of life by producing energy (ATP). And any changes in mitochondrial DNA always change the picture of cellular DNA. Everyone knew this by 2010. At the same time, a principle emerged: our cellular energy stations require enhanced protection and restoration. It now means antioxidant protection, UV protection and “throwing up fuel” so that stations do not stop.

Vitiligo, mitochondrial damage and bacteria

The inner membrane of mitochondria consists of 15–20% of a specific phospholipid (cardiolipin). And if for some reason it is not enough, then the antioxidant protection of our “energy stations” breaks down:

• ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10) does not work,
• cellular respiration and the work of melatonin are disrupted (it is needed as a co-activator of mitochondrial antioxidants).

In short, the work of melanocytes and mitochondria is as tightly connected as the work of two interconnected vessels. Therefore, the use of all tools in cosmetology to protect and restore mitochondria is an effective tool for working with vitiligo. Today, old components with newly discovered properties have proven themselves well - the already mentioned coenzyme Q10, niacinamide, resveratrol, turmeric.

The work of melanocytes and mitochondria is connected. There are few cardiolipins or there are breakdowns in them, melanocytes suffer - vitiligo appears. All tools for protecting mitochondria are effective in working with vitiligo

UVA protection

It has been found that epidermal keratinocytes, when exposed to UVA and IR radiation, become particularly sensitive to damage to mitochondrial DNA (mtDNA) . When the reaction of protected and unprotected skin was compared, it turned out that the loss of mtDNA in unprotected skin was 10 times greater.

Just two weeks of sun exposure (specifically UVA) depletes mtDNA in the dermis by approximately 40%, and this depletion persists for at least 16 months

Therefore, to protect the skin, you should use cosmetics with UV filters that cover the UVA-I spectrum (with a wavelength above 370 nm). Of the variety of filters, only very few protect in this range of rays.

From chemical filters :

• Butyl Metoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) - but it is very photounstable and can cause allergies. This is an obsolete filter; in modern formulations it is customary to replace it with more “advanced” and safer filters;
• Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (trade name - Uvinul A Plus);
• Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (trade name - Tinosorb M);
• Terephthalylidine Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (trade name - Mexoryl SX).

From physical filters :

• Zinc Oxide (although in nanoparticle form it is not recommended in spray products);
• Cerium oxide (also not recommended for sprays);
• Titanium Dioxide (weak and does not cover the spectrum of rays as completely, so it must be combined with ZnO).

Protect hungry microorganisms

Now our dramatic plot will return to symbiosis and bacteria.

Just five years ago, it would have been difficult to think that one of the most important tips in cosmetology would sound like this: to keep your skin healthy, you need to protect its “good” staphylococcus (S. epidermidis)

Bacteria produce and accumulate their strategic reserve - various lipids. Moreover, nature has designed it in such a way that all their processes work as smoothly as possible in “starvation mode” - literally without excess nutrients. This is normal for microflora, because the evolutionary path was thorny. For example, if there is an excess of fast carbohydrates in the diet (cakes, soda, etc.), then fungi and yeast actively begin to multiply, displacing hard-working bacteria from the intestines. As a result, excess weight, digestive and skin problems. Therefore, adding into the habit of periodically restricting your diet, both in the number of calories and in the amount of carbohydrates, has a beneficial effect on the skin. For example, during the hungry period S. epidermidis actively accumulates lipids, most of them cardiolipin, the same one that is needed for the mitochondrial membrane. By comparison, other members of our normal microflora are P. a cnes , Malassezia and Corynebacterium are unable to produce their own lipids. Moreover, their number in the skin (if in excess) is independently reduced without the use of antiseptics.

Take a pencil

From this knowledge, a new rule for creating cosmetics is born: it is necessary to remove from the composition all preservatives and antiseptics, which carpet bomb indiscriminately sweep away both “good” and “bad” staphylococci. Here is a short list of what it is advisable to eliminate :

• Methylisothiazolinone (banned in the EU since 2015 for leave-on products and wet wipes), Methylchloroisothiazolinone;
• formaldehyde donors : 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol (Bronopol), 5-Bromo-5-Nitro-1,3-Dioxane, Sodium Hydroxymethyl Glycinate, Benzylhemiformal, Quaternium-15, Dmdm Hydantoin, Methenamine (urotropine ), Imidazolidinyl Urea, Diazolidinyl Urea;
• broad-spectrum antiseptics (already banned in the USA since September 2017 ( FDA): Triclosan, Triclocarban, Phenol, Cloflucarban, Fluorosalan, Hexachlorophene.

First published in "Les Nouvelles Esthétiques Ukraine" No. 1 (113) 2019