Chemical peels: pathogenetic aspects of application

As you know, chemical peeling is a method based on controlled skin damage with subsequent inflammatory reaction, which activates reparative processes. Chemical peels allow you to correct age-related and cicatricial changes in the skin, help in the treatment of acne, hyperpigmentation, etc. The choice of peeling solutions available today is large. However, understanding the pathogenetic effect of a particular acid on the skin allows you to make the right choice and get excellent results.

AНA acids

AНA acids (alpha hydroxy acids) are organic carboxylic acids that, in addition to the carboxyl group, have a hydroxyl group. These acids are found in various foods, in particular, fruits, which is where their second name comes from - fruit acids.

In cosmetology, the arsenal of fruit acids is quite wide, because, in addition to the general exfoliating effect, different ANAs have different specific activities. The exfoliating effect of these acids is due to their ability to weaken the adhesion of corneocytes in the lower, younger layers of the stratum corneum due to the fact that they affect the activity of certain enzymes involved in the formation of ionic bonds. There is also evidence that exfoliation occurs as a result of increased apoptosis.

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