In order to perform his work qualitatively, the PM master must know the structure of the skin, because each of its layers perceives and retains the pigment in a different way. We propose to consider the basics of this topic.

The presented article is an exclusive translation of the material published on the website of the international journal for micropigmentation specialists PMU International. Magazine of Permanent Makeup. Original article link

Those who say that our body is a temple are absolutely right. We are grateful to it for being the repository of the very essence of our life. And just as a temple has walls that protect what is most precious within from outside dangers, so does our skin. It is the initial barrier to infection, environmental aggressors, sunlight, dehydration, chemicals and other daily problems.

Any permanent makeup master must understand what happens in all layers of the skin after applying the pigment.

Skin structure

Our skin is made up of the epidermis (top layer) and dermis (bottom layer) . The epidermis, in turn, is divided into several layers:

• the stratum corneum , which is technically 15–20 layers of dead, flattened cells surrounded by a protein coat and lipids;
• s tratum lucidum - a thin layer of dead cells, transparent under a microscope;
• s tratum granulosum is a thin layer where cells prepare to migrate to the upper layers. It is in this layer that cells lose their organelles and nuclei (in other words, they die) and receive the so-called lipid membrane, which contributes to the barrier function of the skin;
• s tratum spinosum is the largest layer. It is in this layer that the microscopic channel created by the needle is most filled with residual pigment;
• The basal layer is the layer where the cells are mitotically active (in other words, they divide). The upward migration of cells begins from this layer.

The dermis is separated from the basal layer by a thin basement membrane.

It is very important to learn about the layers of the skin in order to prevent excessive pigment fading. A key factor in pigment stability is the laying depth. The epidermis cannot hold the tattoo pigment because the cells of the epidermis tend to migrate. As they move towards the surface, the residual pigment they contain will naturally flake off the outer layer of dead cells. Ultimately, all epidermal layers will get rid of pigment particles in about 2-3 months, but the rate of pigment appearance will be different for each individual. At this time, the patient will still notice changes in the appearance of their permanent makeup due to the fact that a number of pigment particles are on their way to the stratum corneum.

The best results are achieved when the pigment is in the upper third of the dermis. If the needle is inserted deeper, the pigment will be bluish-greenish due to incorrect light refraction or will not be visible at all due to the fact that light waves cannot penetrate to this depth. The only difficulty is represented by the application technique. It is problematic for a novice master to control the depth of placement of the pigment manually, feeling the resistance of the skin. This becomes even more complicated as the thickness of the epidermis varies in different parts of the body and even along the same area. So, compared to other parts of the eyelids, they have one of the thinnest epidermis, followed by eyebrows and temples. It should also be noted that the epithelium of the mucous membrane of the lip is thicker than the epithelium of the skin.

Finally

The way the needle is inserted and retracted from the skin affects the effectiveness of the tattoo, as it creates a so-called hole to penetrate the skin. Some PM artists believe that in order to minimize the leakage of pigment to the surface, the needle should penetrate the skin at an angle of 45˚. Thus, the skin penetration hole closes more tightly and retains more pigment compared to when the needle enters at an angle of 80–90°.

The injection of the pigment causes a strong defensive reaction in the body. Some soluble pigment components can be quickly absorbed and eliminated by the lymphatic system. Insoluble components are removed by phagocytic cells. Since most of them are concentrated at the epidermal-dermal junction, pigment particles from the basal layer are usually removed, as are some pigment particles from the dermis, although their number is small.