Pigmentology in PM: pigment inversion and other fears of masters

Alesya Khokhlova , artist, master teacher of permanent makeup and artistic tattoo, founder of the school-studio of permanent makeup and artistic tattoo Millecenta , author of the unique methodology "5-step permanent makeup training system", author of the INKJECT training system: Ink-Technique + InjectTechnique, creator and the developer of the system of color circles Khokhlova A. M.

There are many myths about the quality and composition of the pigment among clients and craftsmen. How to fix permanent makeup by removal method and choose the right removal technology?

Analyzing different companies of pigments , in my practice I came across a theory that there are pigments that can be removed using a laser and the laser copes with this problem better than a remover. Other firms of pigments are removed only with a remover and nothing else. So a natural question arose: to use a laser to remove permanent makeup or is it a remover? Let's do an analysis.

How to choose the "right " pigments?

There are many pigments on the market, there are also enough manufacturers, the price range is different: author's pigments, mixes of masters, leader pigments. The question is who to give preference to and how to work with a certain pigment. Is it possible to remove permanent makeup without a trace and why does the color of the pigment change after laser removal ? What do we call pigment inversion?

To get answers to these questions, I had to conduct an experiment with pigments from various companies, which the permanent makeup master Irina Osipenok introduced into my skin. Over these pigments in the future (after 2 months) we set up an experiment of laser removal together with Natalia Linkevich (Kryuk).

For the experiment, pigments from various manufacturers were used:

PREMIER: Dark Beautiful Brown (C), Dark Russet C092, Dark Sexy Silver C087, Toaster Umber.

SIVAK: MOKKO, Hazelnut, Pink pastel.

Sof Tap: Chocolate Truffle, German Chocolate, Hazelnut, Earth, Espresso, Café Vienna, Milk Chocolate, Café Ole.

QOLORA: Brownish Oliva 409, Siberia 407, Desert Rose 105.

PermaBlend: Tress Pink, Drackest Brown, Roxy Brown, Taup, Brunette, Double Black.

Magic: Salmon #125, M-303, Full Lips 2, Super Black #500, M-302.

Bora Bora: Mix 6, Papaya.

DOREME: Poppy Poppy.

6th sense : # 3

The colors that were used for the experiment. Photos provided by the author

Experiment progress

Step by step introduced all the pigments. We will analyze the manifestation of the color of the tested pigments in the skin in order to further have information: how the pigment manifests itself and how the same pigment can be removed with a laser without using a remover. Is it possible? In fact, with the help of innovative tools (removers) and laser equipment, almost everything can be removed, it is a matter of time, the financial capabilities of the client, and the patience of the master.

In the practice of removal, it is always necessary to take into account the fact how badly the skin was damaged during the provision of permanent makeup services. This moment can greatly influence the process of pigment removal, as the structure of the skin has changed. Even if we carry out the procedure correctly, observing all the nuances of laser removal, the cleansing of the skin from the pigment will be longer, and the recovery process will slow down. This needs to be explained to clients if they contacted you for a secondary laser removal procedure, so that later they would not accuse you of an unprofessional service.

Immediately after the introduction of pigments into the skin (photo 1) and the manifestation of pigments in the process of skin restoration (photo 2)

So, remember: the reason for the delayed removal is hidden not only in the composition of the pigment, but also in the condition of the client's skin. It should also be noted that if there are no physiological factors (skin condition), then you should pay attention to the removal technique and the quality of the laser equipment. With each session, there is less and less pigment in the skin and more power is required to remove the remaining dye in the skin.

Sometimes masters and clients believe that there is a baked pigment in the skinif a high laser power is used to remove it. I will debunk the myth: such a phenomenon does not exist, the traumatic effect of the laser in inept hands leads to damage to the dermis, burns and scarring. The result is a change in the structure of the skin (collagen fibers are located more densely, the vascular plexuses are disturbed).

Experience from practice

In my practice, there was a case when I removed the eyebrows of a client for a long time. Before the provision of my services, the client underwent three laser removal procedures at the medical center - there was no result, then I have three laser procedures and three procedures with removers (of different companies). As a result, the eyebrows acquired a soft shade. Frankly, I partially left the pigment in the skin, I carry out additional procedures for the client, which contribute to faster skin recovery. The removal process continues.

Let's return to the experiment and analyze the photo before removal and immediately after laser removal.

In the process of removing the pigment

The progress of the experiment.

The above pictures show the course of the experiment: 1) immediately after the introduction of pigments; 2) how pigments manifest themselves in the healing process; 3) immediately after one removal session; 4) on the second day after laser removal; 5) in the process of healing; 6) after three laser removal procedures.

This is how the pigments look 9 months after the first pigment injection procedure and after three laser removal procedures.

As a result of laser removal (using the 532 attachment), many pigments show an inversion (dramatic change) in color. Permanent make-up removal was carried out with nozzles for cold and warm colors. As you can see, immediately after removal, the color of the pigment acquires a brighter shade, after healing (a month after the procedure) it fades.

Please note that the lip pigments are not black or blue-black. This suggests that the pigments are very stable in the skin, most likely do not contain iron oxides, organic (synthetic) pigments.

Read the continuation of the material: What happens from the effect of the laser on the pigment?