Low-quality PM: features of laser and remover removal

Victoria Lisitskaya, methodologist of the European Beauty Business School "Cosmotrade", winner of the championship "Permanent Style of Ukraine", speaker of the scientific and practical conference on permanent makeup "Picture Beauty", speaker of the scientific and practical conference on permanent makeup within the framework of the exhibition "InterCHARM-Ukraine 2017 », work experience ⎼ 4 years

Not always old or low-quality PM can be corrected, that is, blocked. In this article, we propose to consider the features of removing pigments from the skin, as well as the differences when working with a remover and a laser.

Recently, more and more masters have appeared on the permanent makeup market. Unfortunately, the quality of the work performed is not always high and satisfies the client. Therefore, along with the growing popularity of permanent makeup services and an increase in the number of masters in this field, the question of removing permanent makeup and tattoos is becoming more and more urgent.

Surely each of us has met works that cannot be corrected by overlapping. For example, if the eyebrows are very densely colored, with a blue tint, or their shape does not allow for high-quality work, then the removal procedure can come to the rescue. Also, sometimes you need to remove an old, boring tattoo.

Before considering the issue of removing pigment from the skin, it is necessary to understand in which layer the pigment should be located.

Skin structure

Skin structure

The skin is made up of three main layers:

• e pidermis (consists of the basal layer, the layer of prickly cells, the granular layer, the shiny layer and the stratum corneum);
• dermis (0.6⎼3 mm). On the eyelids, the dermis layer is thinner, on the back and palms it is thicker. About 70% of the dermis is made up of collagen and elastane fibers. The intercellular substance is called glycosaminoglycans. In this layer we implant the pigment;
• subcutaneous tissue (hypoderm). Here are the larger blood vessels and thicker nerve fibers.

The epidermis is the topmost layer, its thickness is from 0.03 to 1.5 mm. The epidermis performs a protective function. The top layer of the skin is extremely elastic and durable and has the ability to quickly recover from damage. The cells of the epidermis multiply and grow at a high rate, so the skin is in constant renewal. Update cycle ⎼ 26⎼28 days.

The dermis is made up of interwoven fibers, mainly elastin and collagen. They provide the skin with elasticity and return it to its previous state after stretching. The dermis also contains blood and lymphatic vessels, nerve endings, sweat and sebaceous glands, and hair follicles.

Subcutaneous adipose tissue is a “cushion” that protects the body from cooling, injury, stores fat in case of illness, hunger or pregnancy.

The pigment should be located in the upper layer of the dermis, it is there that it will last 1.5⎼2 years and not acquire unpleasant shades.

When permanent makeup is applied, superficial damage to the skin occurs, as a result of which lymphocytes enter the injured area and partially remove the pigment through the lymphatic system, the rest of the pigment is encapsulated and remains in an inert state.

Several factors affect the removal process:

• the depth of the pigment: the deeper the pigment is located, the harder it is to remove it;
• the location of the pattern on the body: for example, eyebrow tattooing is removed faster than a leg tattoo;
• density and thickness of the pigment layer;
• the ability of the patient's skin to regenerate;
• age of tattoos and permanent makeup: the older the work, the slower the removal process will be.

Given these factors, complete elimination may require an average of 3⎼9 sessions. Of course, the quality of the laser device itself and the professionalism of the master play a big role in the removal.

The principle of the laser

The principle of the laser

When penetrating the skin, the laser beam is selectively absorbed in the skin by cells that contain pigment granules. Light energy turns into heat, and under its influence, the paint particles are destroyed into smaller ones that are available for removal by the lymphatic system.

In this case, the capsule with the pigment is destroyed and warms up the surrounding tissues. Immediately after the procedure, whitening of the pigment, swelling in the area of removal is observed. Whitening disappears after 5⎼10 minutes, swelling can last up to 3 days. In the future, the treated surface turns pale from session to session.

Unfortunately, the laser works with different efficiency on different colors.

Dark: black, blue, etc. ⎼ it removes very effectively. Warm: red, orange - removed longer than dark, cold. But when it comes to white, beige, yellow, green, then the laser is practically powerless. Since these colors practically do not absorb the laser beam.

It is in these cases that a remover can come to the rescue.

The principle of removal with a remover

At their core, removers are products containing substances that can bind to insoluble particles of stabilized pigments and remove them from tissues. Depending on the active component, acid, hydrochloric and alkaline removers are distinguished.
Removers containing acids, penetrating into the place of accumulation of the stabilized pigment, bind to insoluble particles of pigments, destroy the connection between them and skin cells, facilitating their extraction from tissues when exposed to the apparatus or handpiece.
Manufacturers may list active ingredients, such as AHAs, in the product. This name refers to such fruit acids: lactic, glycolic, hydroxyacetic, hydroxysuccinic, malic, citric, tartaric.
To enhance the properties of acid-based removers, resorcinol, salicylic acid, and barium sulfide are often added. Acids are inherently clotting agents. Therefore, under the influence of acid-based removers, a rather dense scab (crust) is always formed on the skin.

Removers containing salts of heavy metals in their composition are prohibited for use today. However, modern manufacturers include sea salt concentrate in the salt-based remover.
Removers based on alkalis, such as sodium, potassium, calcium hydroxide, are used for the chemical removal of pigments of any complexity.

The technology of working with a remover is similar to the process of applying a tattoo. They are introduced into the skin with the help of an apparatus, bind to the pigment particles and remove them with a crust during healing.

Post-procedural care must necessarily include special preparations that reduce the risk of scarring. The undoubted plus of the remover is that it copes with any colors.

Summing up, we can say that each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. And the master should select the removal method, taking into account all the features of the work ahead.