Coloring and permanent makeup: what the master needs to consider

At the initial stage, the masters have many problems with the selection of pigments, with the selection of colors for each specific client. This happens for the reason that often in the basic courses they introduce only one brand of pigments, they give the characteristics of the most popular colors in the palette. And when non-standard situations happen, the masters get lost and do not know what to do.

Today we will try to tell you how not to get lost in the variety of brands, shades and find the most important thing in pigments, what you need, understand how exactly and for whom one or another pigment can be used.

Properly selected according to technical specifications and meeting all safety requirements, equipment greatly simplifies some aspects of the PM master’s work, but it will never help you choose the right shade of pigment for this particular client and avoid the appearance of blue eyebrows or purple lips. After all, only the rules of color should work here.

Some believe that you can have a couple of dozen pigments available and this will allow you to “guess” the final result by elimination. But they are deeply mistaken. In each case, the choice of paint is very critical, since the same color can look different:

• in a vial;
• on grinding;
• immediately after the procedure;
• during the healing period;
• fully healed;

Enough options, right? Therefore, in working with clients, you must operate with both logical reflections (selection by color type, etc.), as well as intuitive and acquired knowledge in practice.

Recommendations from experienced craftsmen

Keep a record and file of your clients and enter the pigments that were used in the procedure there. Even if it was a mix of two or three components, do not be too lazy to write down exactly how you got it. Thus, it will be possible in the future to refresh the tattoo, focusing on the available data, to understand whether you need to get the same effect or, conversely, create something radically different.

In addition to color, it is important to consider the age and condition of the patient's skin - this is more likely to give you information regarding further procedures. When the customer base is small, you can probably keep this information in memory, but as the number of customers increases, this information can get confused and erased from memory.

Perhaps not everyone knows this, but the depth of pigment injection also affects the final color. Usually it is adjusted by the hand of the master (as on a Giant Sun typewriter) or adjusted on a PM device (Goochie, Charmant, Biomaser machines), most often 0.5-1 mm, varies depending on skin type, area, etc. This means that at a suitable depth at the level of the middle layer of the dermis, the paint is fixed and after healing, a lasting effect is maintained. Otherwise, if the penetration depth was insufficient, the pigment may not be fixed and “come out” along with the outgoing crust, leaving only a light trace.

Try to discover for yourself the properties of all available pigments, from their composition to combination. In this case, the aforementioned client card file and the recorded algorithm for mixing pigments will be very useful.