Double arrow: technology for creating PM century from Valeria Sadakh

Valeria Sadakh, licensed trainer and representative of iColor Academy, international master, head of the IMAGE PM school studio for permanent makeup (Kyiv), entered the top 10 beauty masters of Ukraine according to the Stella International Beauty Awards - 2017, judge of PM championships, member association KSSK, lecturer and expert on laser removal

Today I want to touch on a topic that permanent makeup experts are constantly arguing about. This is a double arrow. Many people think that this type of PM is too decorative for everyday makeup. But I, as a makeup artist with vast experience and a permanent makeup specialist, am ready to express my point of view. Perhaps I can convince someone and teach.

Of course, much depends on the hand of the master and his aesthetic taste. Now I'm not talking about mediocre jobs that disfigure women. I am talking about the art of make-up and its possibilities in working on the correction of the shape of the eye.

Yes, of course, this type of makeup is not for everyone. But most women still tint the lower lashes and add a shadow or a thin arrow in daytime makeup. Doing this intuitively, they tend to enlarge the eye and emphasize brightness. So why don't we create the illusion of a shadow on the eyelids using the PM? In addition, beautiful arrows can correct the shape of the eyes, fix an unsuccessful tattoo or hide scars after blepharoplasty.

A double arrow - in my understanding and execution - is able to enlarge the eye, open it, give sophistication and mannerisms, some cunning or an oriental look. Many of my clients travel great distances to bring to life the longed-for double arrow.

Our clients are not professionals, and your task is to make sure that permanent makeup improves their appearance.

For a harmonious perception, the lower eyelid cannot be tinted on its own, this is not entirely true. The presence of the upper arrow is mandatory, while the emphasis should be on it. The arrow on the lower eyelid is secondary. It plays the role of supporting the frame.

Important Details

I want to say right away that there are dangerous zones in working with the eyes, especially when working on the lower and upper eyelids at the same time.

1. In no case should you connect the upper and lower eyelids. This is a gross mistake on the part of both makeup and PM. The connected arrow makes the eye smaller, limiting its shape, making it rounder (fisheye). And in PM, working in the very corner of the outer edge, you risk getting a smudge of pigment that will remain in the skin for life if it is not lightened with a laser. Not every master has this equipment and enough skill to work in this delicate area.
2. It is not recommended to deeply stain the inner corner of the eye; one awkward movement can also lead to the formation of a smudge that looks like a bruise (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1. Dangerous areas

Sketch Tips : The tail of the top arrow should be a smooth continuation of the lashes and rush up. It is not necessary that the arrow be long, it is enough to give it an upward direction and be sure to draw the tip with a thin line “to the fly”. The lower eyelid can be designed in different ways - a line or soft shading, but the tip of the arrow should also be a shadow from the eyelashes, respectively, not intersect with the top one! Thus, we create the illusion of infinity in the shape of the eye, thereby increasing it.

Photo 1. Before correction, the work of another master

You can play with the color of the bottom arrow - make it, like the top one, black, black-brown or colored. For example, in the color of the iris, if the client accepts this option. Green-eyed young ladies can shade the lower eyelid with jade or brown; brown-eyed - olive, purple or lavender; blue-eyed - graphite or brown (this emphasizes the depth of eye color); gray eyes will suit a cold shadow - less saturated than on the upper eyelid, or lavender, etc.

Photo 2. After the procedure

On the upper eyelid, you can make a light shading in the color of the iris or brown. But keep in mind that over time, the pigment becomes less saturated, so if you use brown, use only proven pigments that will not go red later. The space between the lashes should be black, soft black or black brown. Otherwise, you will not achieve a gradient. It is necessary to create a smooth transition from dark to shadow: this technique will make it possible to create visual volume. Based on my own experience and the experience of many colleagues, I will say that brown eyelashes are more difficult to lay. If your client is very light, make a soft, loose shading in the space between the eyelashes. It will look “more expensive” than a clear line on bright eyes, it will simply interfere.

Photo 3. Before and after the procedure

I wish you beautiful works and grateful clients who give many new recommendations. The main thing - do not forget: it is better to underdo a little than to clean it up later.

Sincerely, Valeria Sadakh and IMAGE PM school

The material was first published in Permanent No. 2(10)/2018