Age lips: features of permanent makeup

Anna Zabolotnaya , Head of the International Academy of PM and Aesthetic Dermopigmentation "Biotek" (Russia), certified artist, international class master teacher in permanent make-up, aesthetic dermopigmentation and trichopigmentation, winner of the first Contour of the Century competition (2003), judge of permanent make-up championships in Russia and abroad, lecturer at the International University of PM (Milan, Italy) (Russia)

Permanent lip makeup is traditionally in demand. At any age, women want to give expressiveness to their mouths. As they say, there are never too many lips! But especially this procedure becomes relevant in adulthood.

Alas, the years go by, and withering is inevitable. Wrinkles appear, the corners of the mouth drop, the color of the lips turns pale, the Cupid's arch becomes less pronounced, and the face takes on a tired look.

The aging process begins at around age 40. Annoying purse-string wrinkles appear above the upper lip, the volume of the upper lip decreases. The lips are also visually flattened, losing their attractive bulge.

But age-related lip makeup is a delicate matter. In order to correctly choose the color scheme of the pigment, the shape and technique of tattooing, it is necessary to understand the processes taking place in the skin. By the age of fifty, melanin begins to be synthesized differently, which leads to a change in color. And by the age of 50-60, the wrinkles of the upper lip deepen and lengthen, wrinkles of the lower lip form. The color of the lips becomes uneven, the corners of the mouth drop even more and the Cupid's arch becomes significantly flattened. As a result, the lips look thin, like strings. In addition, the skin loses its tone, acquires a grayish tint, and the lips become bluish.

Of course, all these troubles can be dealt with. True, in order to achieve a good result, you need to take into account many nuances.

A dark outline adds unwanted dark lines to an older face. At the same time, vertical wrinkles are strongly emphasized and nasolabial wrinkles are visually enhanced. A clear contour collects the lips “in a pile”, because the shape, according to the rules of visage, is cut off and reduced, as it were. As a result, not seeing the true correct form, many seek to enlarge the lips by drawing them more.

At the same time , small outlined lips can create the visual effect of enlarged cheeks.

Often, masters draw the lower lip much larger than the upper one, and the face becomes like the muzzle of an offended monkey. To avoid such incidents, you need to make sure that the lower and upper lip have the same size , and the lower one comes out from under the upper one. It should also be remembered that there is always a shadow under the lower lip, so the middle of the lip actively protrudes forward, resulting in a contrasting border of light and shadow, which cannot be painted over with high quality.

Downy hair grows above the upper and under the lower lips, and when enlarged, the lips appear "hairy".

When choosing a pigment, it is very important to consider the overall tone of the face. For example, orange on a freckled face can make it look more yellow and highlight freckles, but on a darker face it can appear brown.

The white stripe , whether thick or thin, creates a comical clown look. It happens that the client insists on drawing such a strip, having read tips on the Internet, and the master fulfills this request, not understanding why and how to do it. Do not shade such a strip, it will never look natural, it will not be invisible.

A sure way to dissuade a client from such an undertaking is to offer him to apply makeup in this way for a couple of weeks, so that he has heard plenty of feedback from acquaintances and friends. And the masters who draw such stripes can be advised to include them in their own everyday makeup and often admire themselves in the mirror.

There are so-called barbie lips , popularly referred to as "Rublev's" - round, greatly enlarged and bright.

Doing such makeup, you can be blown up by more than one underwater mine - against this background, you can get a greatly enlarged swollen nose and small eyes to boot. In addition, a bright mouth attracts attention, so the teeth must be perfect!

In enlarged, round and very whitened lips, there are also many dangers. They are vulgar, look inappropriate for their age. The general impression of a swollen, pasty face is created, a painful appearance appears. In addition, white eyeliner separates the lips from the face, and they look like a separate element.

It happens that clients ask to make the upper lip more plump by aligning the Cupid's arch . This is an erroneous tactic, because with such a tattoo, the face seems flat.

So in order to create a fresh, healthy look, you need to understand all the intricacies of permanent makeup. Colors should be chosen not flashy, but juicy. And, of course, you should always adhere to the rule of the golden mean, observing a sense of proportion.

With age, all processes in the body slow down, including the intensity of cell renewal. Therefore, the older the client, the longer permanent makeup lasts. The master faces a difficult task: to choose the colors of the pigments as competently as possible and adjust the shape, taking into account the numerous nuances of age-related physiological processes.

Of course, it is a pity that it is impossible to turn back time and return the young years ... But it is in our power to fight against unwanted changes in appearance. And permanent makeup is one of the main tools in this noble cause!

The material was first published in Permanent No. 1/2016