Age client: features of the work of a permanent makeup master

Svetlana Kachalova, founder and head of the Ideal Contour training center (exclusive distributor of Nouveau Contour (Netherlands) in Ukraine), international certified trainer of Nouveau Contour, participant in international conferences and exhibitions, graduate in marketing and economics of business process management

Today we want to discuss a very delicate issue - the peculiarities of the work of a permanent makeup master with aged clients, or rather, consider the real facts that should be taken into account in the work, and offer a solution in a number of difficult situations.

Women strive to always look good, but with the onset of an elegant age, maintaining the desired beauty becomes much more difficult.

Experienced masters will confirm that it is very difficult to create a competent make-up on an aged face . It is necessary to adhere to strict rules and laws and avoid any experiments with color and shape. The main thing is that as a result the client's face looks much younger. The same applies to permanent makeup.

Psychological aspect

Representatives of the beauty industry in general and permanent makeup masters in particular are usually younger than the ladies of elegant age who come for the procedure. Accordingly, you will be able to achieve success in working with this type of client only with a respectful attitude towards her, which ladies read instantly - by turning their heads, by vibrations in their voice, etc. You should not give a reason for a client to stay with you for an extra hour because for his statements addressed to you or fear of losing him.

No matter how many professionals from private business and salon owners strive to achieve the ideal execution of job descriptions for working with clients in order to minimize unpleasant situations associated with conflicts and misunderstanding (sometimes even rudeness), it is very difficult to achieve if you do not understand the philosophy of the client. An older client is like a mother or a VIP client. Yes, she allows the only possible format of communication with her - a respectful attitude, with a desire and your opportunity to listen and hear her. Sometimes it will take a little longer, as the younger client is dynamic and always in a hurry. Age clients clearly allocate their time, so every trip to the master is an event that you want to enjoy. Also, do not write off the desire to talk: the lack of communication and the ability to influence decision-making in old age is a very topical issue, which is sometimes closed at the expense of the master.

It was not by chance that I singled out this aspect and put it first, since working with another generation requires more careful and delicate handling.

Age-related skin changes

Every woman would like to control time and stop the effects of aging, but not everyone succeeds and requires a lot of effort. One of the turning points is the hormonal changes during menopause, which affect the condition of the skin and the general condition of the woman. The rate of age-related changes depends on the genetic characteristics of the organism, the influence of the environment and lifestyle. A low concentration of estrogen leads to a thinning of the epidermis, it loses its elasticity and firmness, which leads to the appearance of new wrinkles.

There is less collagen, a decrease in its level, along with thin and dry skin, leads to sagging of the skin, falling off of forms, the fat layer under the skin becomes thinner - and gravity wins this battle for youth.

Mimic muscles change the nature of their work with time and hormonal changes and often give out a woman's age precisely by their active manifestation. A smile, a casually raised eyebrow and any emotion are now more visible.

The muscles of the face are of two types: depressors responsible for lowering the skin (muscles of the lips, between the eyebrows), and levators, lifting the skin (emotion that raises a surprised eyebrow, lower part of the frontalis muscle, corners of the mouth). The active work of depressors is usually more obvious with age, therefore, sometimes an eternally tired, displeased facial expression may be the result of excessive work of facial muscles.

Pigmentation appears on the hands, face and chest. The cause is also hormonal imbalances during menopause. Ladies should use special creams with sunscreens. Exfoliating procedures aimed at working with the top layer of the skin will also help stop these processes.

First of all, all biological changes in the body are reflected in the areas of the eyebrows and lips. Most often, clients of elegant age turn to permanent makeup masters with such problems as the disappearance of the lip contour, changes in the shape of the eyebrows and the drooping of the upper eyelid. Fortunately, all this can be leveled with the help of permanent makeup correction.

Features of age PM:

• on thinned skin with age, the pigment looks brighter, and this must be taken into account;
• when working with eyebrows - do not lower the tails down, as the shape of the face “falls” over time due to loss of elasticity and turgor;
• give preference to smooth transitions and lines, use the most natural colors.

Also ask if the lady will take care of her “new” face, as an appeal to the master may indicate that she does not want to use tweezers and decorative cosmetics. If the existing and natural shape of the eyebrow does not match, try to find a compromise when drawing a sketch and convince the client of the correctness of your vision: two tails are not a very aesthetic picture. Excessively wide eyebrows will not decorate the face of an age client, as she will not be able to regain youth with their help and will seem ridiculous, not refined.

Perception of life

Eyes are not only a mirror of the soul, but also our ability to appreciate life as it is, and look at it from the outside. The reality of a person can be distorted under the prism of his perception of life. This part affects for the most part our ability to see well and really perceive and feel life.

Everyone's eyesight deteriorates with age, and the need to wear glasses is quite acute. The tendency to deterioration of vision is associated with a sharp increase in visual load, the predominance of artificial lighting, lack of physical activity and lack of fresh air. Physiological natural changes also play a role:

• at 45, age-related farsightedness appears, due to the fact that the muscles that support the lens gradually weaken. This is not a disease, but a natural process in the body. Just get reading glasses;
• at age 50, 1.5% of people suffer from glaucoma. Increased intraocular pressure damages the optic nerve, and the field of vision gradually narrows. Risk factors - problems with blood vessels, cervical osteochondrosis, eye injuries, myopia, heredity;

GLAUCOMA IS A CONTRAINDICATION FOR THE PROCEDURE OF PERMANENT MAKE-UP!

• At age 65, 15% of people experience age-related macular degeneration. The macula, the central part of the retina, gradually collapses and the person loses central vision. Risk factors: problems with blood vessels, smoking, unhealthy diet, frequent exposure to the sun without dark glasses.

All women with age begin to perceive themselves differently due to the fact that they see worse. So the arrow in front of the eyes is already small - you need more, and the color of the pigment should be slightly unnatural on the lips - from dark crimson to burgundy and brown. Unfortunately, these requests are very difficult to satisfy due to your ethical standards and the physiology of the client.

The first, of course, is your work, and we still correctly defend our interests so that we are not ashamed of our work. The client may be mistaken, but your task is to get the job done and achieve a mitigating “verdict” in form and color.

We can bring the arrow only to the fold of refraction hanging over the upper eyelid. It is also worth asking if the client will have blepharoplasty in the near future. If yes, then we will try to postpone the lifting effect from the veil spraying of the shadow shading of the upper eyelid. The reason is the presence of a cosmetic suture during a circular lift after upper eyelid surgery, which can damage the healed work of the “arrow with shading of the upper eyelid” and the complexity of correction in the future.

When performing upper blepharoplasty, the surgeon performs excision of the excess part of the skin of the eyelid and removal of fat bags. The operation ends with the application of a thin cosmetic suture, which is usually removed on the 5th day. The incision line is hidden in the natural fold of the skin.

If the client is not going to do blepharoplasty, then the “arrow with shading of the upper eyelid” is a rather effective solution for older women who want to remain bright and irresistible.

It is also worth paying special attention to anesthesia. Not so long ago, there was a case, broadcast in the media, associated with a burnt cornea after the application of cream-based primary anesthesia, when the master sent the client home, not ready for such a reaction of the body. The problem was that the cream base got into the eye and the client needed urgent medical attention, but it was not provided. The client partially lost her sight, as she turned to the medical facility late. With immediate medical attention and properly prescribed treatment, everything would be fine and would not affect the client's vision, and, of course, the reputation of the master would also be saved. The reasons for such a negligent attitude to work are fear and ignorance of the algorithm of actions in such a situation. The master must be prepared for such a reaction or use another gel-based primary anesthesia in order to avoid such unpleasant cases in his practice.

CREAM-BASED PRIMARY ANESTHESIA FOR CLIENTS WITH EYE DISEASES IS FORBIDDEN!

The cream base is very insidious. It should be on the skin of the eyelids and the interciliary region and in no case should it penetrate the mucous membrane of the eye. The client should feel a slight tingle on the skin, but not inside the eye. If this has already happened and you are too carried away and put on too much cream, then you need to immediately rinse your eye with saline or eye drops and make sure that everything is in order, there is no chemical burn. In the event of an unforeseen emergency, you should contact an ophthalmologist.

Masters can use cream-based application primary anesthesia when working with an age client if she does not have eye diseases, but it is better to be careful. Many beginners in the profession "lose the sketch" due to overzealous cream base and slow work, which leads to sagging. So many can benefit if they change the methodology and nature of the work.

Triad: lips, color, shape

PM masters have an unspoken rule when PM lips - stay in their natural contour.

An older woman "eats" the contour of her lips, and sometimes it is difficult to define or mark its boundaries. The tissues change, and sometimes the lips turn into two shapeless strings, which are a crime to emphasize with permanent makeup. For older women, it is allowed to go beyond the natural boundaries of the mucous membrane of the lips, but, of course, everything is under the responsibility of the master and a mandatory examination for control.

There is also a problem with an even contour due to the heterogeneous structure of the skin, wrinkles and deep “pouches” (wrinkles around the lips). Everything is important here: the clarity of the drawn sketch, the correct fixation of the contour and the technique of your movements when fixing the contour, since any deviation of the needle will be a disaster, which will be quite difficult to correct.

It is worth considering the likely pigmentation of the lips, and I do not exclude the use of several colors to achieve a good result.

It is also worth considering the thinness of the epidermal layer and not go deep.

I advise you to choose a color fresh and deep. Ladies of the age are not fond of trendy nudes and frivolous pink, their favorites are classic hot berry and velvet shades of a mix of red wine, tea rose, dark pink, ripe cherries, burgundy.

I also recommend that when using these colors, because of their excessive cold, add a drop of insulation, a blue color corrector (red) - for personal peace of mind.

Life hacks from personal experience

1. Regular intake of blood thinners.

The term "thick blood" is becoming relevant for older clients, it is again, of course, associated with the notorious hormonal changes during menopause. In all people, with age, the blood becomes thicker, and the vessels become more rigid and calcified.

Before the procedure, you should ask the client about her state of health and find out if her doctor prescribed blood thinners. If the answer is yes, ask not to take drugs 24 hours before the session. When a client bleeds unnecessarily during a procedure, this is a bad sign. Why should be determined.

2. Aesthetics of the procedure

Everyone has their own perception of reality and oneself, but I ask you to carefully listen to the client, her wishes and offer that desired compromise, since trust between the master and the client is sacred.

Imagine that she has been wearing, for example, shaggy and shapeless eyebrows for a long time, or, conversely, there are almost no eyebrows, and getting used to her new one (even in the mirror at the time of drawing the sketch) and accepting is stress that not everyone is ready for, but as a rule, the master does not have time to persuade in his rightness. There are several approaches to work - not even giving the opportunity to approve the sketch and get to work after the phrase of trust; having made a sketch, let the client go home so that she can get used to the new image or consult with relatives. I lead discussions because of a tender attitude towards this category of clients or let them go right away. How you work with your clients is up to you.

It is difficult for a master to go for the conditions of “two strings” in the style of Lyubov Orlova or to emphasize the old fifteen-year-old tattoo of the 90s again, as well as to create a wide youthful eyebrow on an older face.

The master must remember that:

• we discover in a woman her new "I";
• we give new life to her face, sometimes changing beyond recognition;
• the client must love the new self;
• and you should be proud of your professionalism, exhibiting "delicious" demonstration works!