Cutting and coloring long hair: 7 rules of work from Yuri Tsarev

How to make a sombre correctly?

When you do sombre, which is so popular now, for long hair, regardless of its height, the white line should be at the same level. It is important to stretch the color correctly so that, unlike ombre, you do not end up with an even stripe. Never apply a brightening agent to the border of the light and dark line - it must be carefully pulled up to it from the bottom up. If you do it differently, you will get stains. Apply appropriate amount of bleach to ends and lift up.

What technical mistakes are important to avoid?

Do not make quick movements or foam the bleaching product when applying. Apply the dye carefully, because once it is applied, the hair becomes very sensitive. That is why you cannot comb your strands through the bleaching agent - this will lead to mechanical damage! Never apply the product to the strand very close to the roots! The bleach tends to be drawn to the roots and can cause stains. Many masters want to show many colors and many techniques at once - this should not be done. Three color stretch options – that’s the maximum!

"Veil": all the secrets of technology

The veil technique is ideal for women who already have some gray hair but don't like to cover it up. Then, against the background of thin bleached strands, gray hair is not noticeable. Or when the client does not like obvious, revealing coloring. Strands using the veil technique are invisible. If you contrastly lighten the “veil” on very dark hair, in general the client will not become lighter, and nothing will change in his hairstyle in a dark room. But when the rays of the sun fall on the client’s hair, these strands will sparkle and glow from the inside. It looks very nice! Such a result is worth such painstaking work!

Deep bangs: “yes” and “no”

Deep bangs, cut from the highest point of the head, are a very bold decision. First of all, such bangs should absolutely not be done on curly hair, otherwise the client will have to style it several times a day. This bangs is ideal for those with straight or slightly wavy hair. Also, deep bangs are contraindicated for very porous hair with a high degree of sensitivity - it will fluff, stick out at the slightest humidity and give a feeling of sloppiness to the face. The hair should be dense and of high quality. You can make a similar bang on thin hair - then you need to take it deeper. Bangs for curly hair are also relevant, but such bangs are not straightened out now; they are worn in volume. Curly bangs are cut on almost dry hair, taking into account that they will become shorter. All the hair is styled chaotically - creating a kind of “beach mess”.

Any haircut should take into account the individual hair structure!

Often, hairdressers cut hair that has been straightened with an iron - they cut it so that it lays beautifully and the cut is visible. But we must understand that the client will not stretch his own hair at home the way we can do it in the salon. The haircut should be oriented towards the hair when it is in a semi-ironed state. If your hair naturally has a different structure, you will either have to style it long and painstakingly every day, for fear of getting caught in the rain, or such a haircut will look sloppy. The peculiarity of the structure of the hair, the peculiarity of the density of the hair growth - often it is less dense on top and denser at the back of the head - this is always important to take into account! Frankly deep thinning on top, slicing, pointing, incision cannot be used on Slavic hair. Deep cuts, deep razor are suitable for Asian type - dense, heavy straight hair. It is important to consider the sensitivity of the hair: when it is damaged, it becomes more frizzy and more porous.

The right choice of color for fashionable dyeing for long hair

Now there is no strict connection to the seasons of the year, but there is definitely a connection to naturalness, the naturalness of the color arrangement. The light part should be near the face, and the darker strands should be on the back of the head. Proper darkening at the roots leading to the lighter ends should give a nice, proper contrast against the skin. Cool platinum shades are not recommended for damaged hair - these colors visually make the hair even more damaged. For such hair, beige, beige-golden, and cream shades are ideal.

Combination of haircut and coloring for long hair

You don't need a lot of detail in either color or cut. This gives the feeling that the person is separate, and the haircut is separate. It's like a thesis created on the client's head. There must be harmony. If the color is bright, the haircut is calmer. And vice versa - torn, asymmetrical, dynamic haircuts are recommended to be done on plain hair. Of course, if you don’t work on stage: any avant-garde is appropriate here. And in hairstyles that are applicable in everyday life, both are too much. The article was first published in the magazine “Makeup&YOU Professional” and is intended for professional hairdressers.