Skin remodeling using microneedling therapy

Yulia Kievskaya, Candidate of Biological Sciences, scientific director of YK School, cosmetologist-pharmacist

The procedure with multiple micro-needles is recommended for chronological and photo-induced skin aging, as well as scar therapy. Microneedling has recently become non-ablative, and because of this, it is a more affordable alternative to other skin correction methods.

History of invention

The prerequisites for the emergence of the microneedling skin remodeling method arose at the beginning of the 20th century. Experts experimented with “versions” of modern devices in attempts to correct various defects of the patient’s skin – scars, hyperpigmentation. In the early 90s of the last century, plastic surgeon Camirand used ink-free tattoo devices in his practice to change the quality of post-operative scars and noticed that patients received good results. Inspired by Camirand's report, the young Dr. Fernandez thought about creating a convenient tool for multiple skin punctures and already in 1999 he presented a scheme for performing the procedure with a needle roller. In the early 2000s, “fast” Dr. Liebl Horst patented the name “dermaroller.”

Dr. Liebl proposed a hypothesis for the effect of microneedling through the electrical membrane potential of the cell. The cell potential at rest is -70 mV; when the needle approaches the cell membrane, the potential approaches -100 mV. This causes increased cellular activity and the release of various proteins, potassium and growth factors from the cells into the external environment, which leads to the migration of fibroblasts to the site of injury and hence the induction of collagen.

Thus, the needles do not create a wound in the real sense, but the body's cells are tricked into believing that damage has occurred.

Operating principle of the technology

Microneedles cause controlled damage to skin structures. As a response to damage, inflammation occurs in the form of a typical pathological process that occurs in the tissue and manifests itself as disturbances of local circulation, blood and connective tissue. Microtrauma from needles causes minimal superficial bleeding and creates a skin healing cascade with the release of growth factors, inflammatory mediators, and vasoactive substances.

Inflammation ends with proliferation, matrix remodeling processes occur:

1. In response to damage, MMZ (matrix metalloproteinases) are activated - they eliminate damaged structures, instead of destroyed collagen and GAGs, new ones will be synthesized.
2. Migration of neutrophils, release of reactive oxygen species (ROS). On the one hand, there is “sanitary cleaning” of the skin, but at the same time additional tissue damage due to ROS.
3. The growth of new blood vessels - the delivery of necessary substances and the removal of waste materials.
4. An accumulation of macrophages - “conductors” of the activity of all cells.
5. Growth factors and cytokines cause division of basal stem cells and migration of keratinocytes to the damaged area.
6. Activation of fibroblasts, which begin to rebuild the collagen framework.

Result: reducing the depth of wrinkles, increasing skin firmness and elasticity, improving microcirculation, lightening pigment.

Possibilities of microneedles

Skin rejuvenation

Due to the reorganization of old collagen fibers, new collagen and elastin are synthesized, intense angiogenesis occurs, the number of wrinkles and fine lines decreases, pores narrow, elasticity and skin turgor increase.

Scar treatment

The technique is used for different types: scars from acne, hypertrophic scars, as well as from surgical interventions, injuries, chickenpox. Microneedling is effective for reducing post-burn scars, affects vascularization, stimulating angiogenesis in the wound healing cascade - the thickness of the epidermis increases, erythema decreases, and skin color normalizes.

Pigmentation correction

New research confirms the effectiveness of microneedling therapy in the fight against hyperpigmentation through the processes of reducing epidermal melanin, restoring the basement membrane and increasing dermal collagen. In addition, sealing the epidermis may provide additional protection from UV radiation.

Hair loss therapy

Microneedling facilitates the penetration of hair growth promoting products. Even monotherapy using microneedling alone significantly increases the total amount of hair.

In addition, the microneedling therapy method is used to correct intense fat deposits (“cellulite”), sagging skin, stretch marks (stretch marks), uneven skin tone, enlarged pores, etc.

Benefits of Microneedling

Let's look at several compelling scientifically proven reasons why you should take a closer look at microneedling therapy.

• Only partial damage to the epidermis and/or dermis.
• Less intense inflammatory reaction compared to similar methods.
• Rapid restoration of the skin after the procedure.
• Regeneration occurs due to the attraction of the cell pool of undamaged tissue.
• Low risk of dyschromia and fibrosis.
• Safety of frequent procedures.
• The ability to use technology on different areas of the face and body.
• Effective combination with peelings, PRP, drugs, biologically active substances, light therapy.
• The penetration of active substances increases several times.
• Simplicity of technology and ease of use of the devices.

Positive effects of microneedling therapy

• Increasing the thickness of the epidermis up to 140% due to thickening of the total number of cell layers, especially the granular and horny ones.
• An increase in the density of protein fibers in connective tissue corresponds to young skin, the number of collagen fibers increases up to 400%.
• Increased levels of fibroblast growth factor.
• Increased levels of glycosaminoglycans.
• Higher levels of vascular endothelial growth factor.
• Pronounced folding of the border of the epidermis and dermis.

Such changes indicate a qualitative improvement in the epidermis due to an increase in the number of cellular components of the dermis and an increase in the density of the components of the intercellular matrix. This suggests that induction of collagen synthesis by microneedling is an effective method for skin remodeling and rejuvenation.

As the skin condition improves, the patient's quality of life also improves. And if you make friends with microneedling therapy in your dermatocosmetology office, your patients will be very grateful to you!