Cosmetological treatment methods: selection algorithm

Ksenia Kazimirova, Ph.D., dermatocosmetologist, head of the educational and methodological center "Alpha SPA" (Kyiv)

A long trail of myths about the development of aesthetic cosmetology opens a new chapter in the modern culture of appearance care. It is unlikely that anyone, in a raging time of change, will try to formulate the basic principles of aesthetic theory, without limiting himself to the concept of “external gloss” and removing ideas about the essence and tasks of the medical-aesthetic direction, because medicine and aesthetics are extremely contradictory. The absence of an official aesthetic doctrine excites the imagination of beauty industry specialists. Feeling like magicians, they increasingly pursue the goal of “charming, delighting, pleasing.” But for some reason patients are talking more and more about naturalness. And a specialist can make adjustments to the appearance so subtly that the intervention is unnoticeable. By emphasizing individuality with the right choice of technologies used, we prolong the youth of the people who turn to us.

Challenges of modern cosmetology

Skin is a complex organ. Its structure differs in different areas, and the processes occurring in it are very diverse. Thousands of reactions of the outer shell of a person to constant environmental influences become a severe test for the whole organism, because the skin performs not only the functions of protection, secretion, thermoregulation, water-salt and lipid metabolism, but also, due to biochemical processes (including photochemical), occurring in it, is an organ that participates in the system of regulation of the immune and hormonal status of the body, in many aspects determines the state of the endocrine system and calcium metabolism, and participates in the processes of biorhythmological synchronization of human activity. This must be realized and taken into account when choosing the ingredient composition of cosmetic preparations and the possibilities of hardware effects, since the skin is not a passive target, but an active participant in all processes occurring in the body.

It follows that, having a defect (whether dermatological or cosmetic, molecular or cellular), the largest human organ - the skin - needs a multifaceted approach that can correct various errors at different levels.

The new era of cosmetology is medical, it is a kind of lifeline for everyone who wants to remain well-groomed, beautiful and healthy. But, despite medical trends, it is not yet possible to influence the very root of the problem, since it is hidden deep in the biochemistry of the DNA of the cell. The aging process remains irreversible and, accordingly, beyond the control of medicine.

At the same time, temporary correction of signs of aging is a thing of the past in beauty medicine, which today actively uses the achievements of trichology, neurology, dietetics, podology and other branches of human science, which make it possible to most effectively solve the problems of correcting appearance and preventing premature aging.

Technological breakthroughs in the field of medical cosmetology offer more and more new ways to introduce non-surgical rejuvenation methods. Modern trends look into the dermal layer of the skin, where cells - fibroblasts - are located. And returning these cells to a “young mode of activity” is a key task of beauty science. Stimulation of fibroblasts is achieved by changing their usual living conditions, and the provoked reactive stress triggers the necessary changes.

Cosmetological treatment methods: selection algorithm

The physiological validity of methods for maintaining beauty at the desired level and the process of forming a long-term result proceeds in stages:

• the stage of primary mobilization of the system components (the effect of novelty when using a new cosmetic brand, smoothness of the skin with any type of peeling, reduction in volume during the drainage procedure);
• the stage of selecting the components necessary for the system (without the required amount of materials: vitamins, micro- and macroelements, proteins, fats and carbohydrates involved in biochemical reactions, the process of normal recovery is impossible);
• stage of relative stabilization - the need to connect a supporting regime with correction of dominant procedures;
• stage of complete stabilization with the organization of prevention methods.

In the vast majority of cases, achieving the best result personally for each patient requires a specialist to develop special programs optimized for a specific age and specific problems. Skin type, aging morphotype, genetic predisposition, environmental conditions, lifestyle, bad habits, etc. are taken into account. According to the goals of treatment and the individual characteristics of the patient, the choice and nuances of combining techniques are determined. At the same time, the specialist should understand the effect of each method and means in order to prevent hyperstimulation of the skin or other negative consequences.

Various types of interaction between medical and spa technologies include:

• combined (simultaneous) impact, in which combined programs can both enhance and suppress each other’s effectiveness;
• sequential exposure (one after the other with a short interval) in order to physiologically trigger the necessary reactions;
• with alternating exposure (every other day or in another order);
• gradual impact (course through a course of procedures).

The fundamental principles of the therapeutic use of biochemical (cosmetics, mesomedicines, etc.) and biophysical factors (hardware high- and low-intensity techniques) are:

• unity of etiology, pathogenesis and symptoms, simultaneous elimination (weakening) of the etiological agent of a given pathology, active influence on the links of pathogenesis, elimination of manifestations of the main symptoms;
• the need to influence the etiology in the acute period;
• the focus of procedures in the subacute and chronic periods on resolving the pathological process, eliminating residual manifestations, normalizing impaired functions;
• creating a positive psycho-emotional mood;
• the principle of individual treatment using physical factors (“treat not the disease, but the patient”);
• specificity of the influence of a physical factor on certain functions of the body;
• the impact of a therapeutic physical factor on reflexogenic zones and on the body as a whole;
• taking into account background hormonal activity;
• course treatment, deepening and consolidation of initial morphofunctional changes;
• optimality of treatment;
• dynamism of treatment.

“Healthy beauty” is a fragile concept that requires constant work on oneself and daily efforts. Having achieved a quality result once, you need to be able to maintain it - this is the key to maintaining success. Some patients mistakenly believe that having undergone a course of any procedures once, they will not remember about self-care for a long time. But everything must be systematic. And any implemented technique (be it hardware technology or a cosmetic brand with an innovative slogan) must pass the main test - against time.

First published: Les Nouvelles Esthetiques Ukraine, No. 2 (84), 2014