Biologically active components: synergy for solving various problems

Logo

Let's look at what active ingredients can be used in cosmetics to solve various skin problems.

Specific components

Coenzyme Q10

Antioxidant – filling – nutrition.

Promotes tissue regeneration, reduces the formation of comedones. Coenzyme Q is a molecule involved in the process of energy synthesis in mitochondria. It has antioxidant activity and protects mitochondria from oxidative damage. In combination with vitamin E and retinol, it is used in treatments against free radicals and skin aging. With regular use, the skin becomes soft, silky, radiant and well-hydrated. To protect the skin from free radicals, it is recommended to add 2 drops of Q10 to your day cream in the morning.

Retinol

Regeneration – anti-wrinkle – lightening – rejuvenating effect.

An important active component for skin rejuvenation, reduces signs of aging, smoothes wrinkles, stimulates cell regeneration. Recommended for skin with acne and increased pigmentation in combination with vitamin C.

Panthenol

Regeneration – hydration – calming. Ionization (–).

Activates cell regeneration and promotes the formation of new ones, accelerates the process of epithelization of the skin, relieves irritation, and has a strong moisturizing, regenerating and calming effect. Panthenol prevents dehydration and maintains natural energy balance. Increases collagen's resistance to the destructive effects of free radicals. Recommended for dry, couperose, aging skin.

Urea

Softening – filling – moisturizing. Ionization (–).

It has a strong moisturizing and softening effect, helps exfoliate dead cells, cleanse pores, and nourish the skin. Its molecular weight allows it to easily penetrate into the deeper layers of the epidermis, retain moisture and serve as a conductor for other active substances. With oily skin and pH imbalance, the fatty film does not allow moisture to pass inside. It is necessary to apply urea to restore the hydrolipid mantle. Recommended for all skin types, especially dry skin, flaking, psoriasis and eczema.

Hyaluronic acid

Filling – hydration – anti-aging – anti-wrinkle. Ionization (+/–).

Hyaluronic acid is located in the dermis, its main function is to stablely retain a significant amount of water in the skin. The main property of hyaluronic acid is its unique ability to bind water. It is highly compatible with the skin, rarely causes allergic reactions, creates a thin film that prevents moisture loss without disrupting gas exchange, and restores water balance in the skin. Hyaluronic acid stabilizes collagen fibers, increases their elasticity, stimulates the division of skin cells, has a positive effect on the formation and regeneration of the structure of the dermis, and maintains an optimal level of moisture.

Hydrolyzed collagen

Elasticity – regeneration – anti-aging. Ionization (+).

A chain of amino acids: glycine, proline, hydroxyproline, hydroxylysine - penetrates deep into the skin, restores its elasticity, forms a breathable, moisture-retaining film on the skin, slows down the loss of hydration, softens and tightens the facial contour.

Hydrolyzed elastin

Elasticity – regeneration – anti-aging.

Ionization (+).

Contains the amino acid desmosine - a fibrillar protein that, together with collagen, forms a three-dimensional network of protein fibers and ensures protein cross-linking. Glycoprotein is responsible for the elasticity of the skin, penetrates deep into the dermis, restores elasticity, softens expression wrinkles, and evens out the oval of the face.

Peptides

Firmness – elasticity – reduction of wrinkles. Ionization (+).

The molecular weight of peptides is significantly less than that of proteins, due to this they are able to penetrate cells and have a biological effect, stimulate the formation of collagen, increase skin elasticity, relieve inflammation and stimulate regeneration processes, promote the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, help restore blood microcirculation, increase the natural mechanisms of antioxidant protection, control melanogenesis (melanin formation).

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 stimulates the production of type 4 and type 7 collagen fibers. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a remodeling peptide that improves the quality and initiates renewal processes of the intercellular matrix. Aqua-Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-19 inhibits the contraction of muscles responsible for the appearance of facial wrinkles, has a botulinum-like effect, inhibits the release of the neurotransmitter acetylcholine into neuromuscular junctions, acting selectively on the peripheral cholinergic endings of motor nerves, reduces the depth of wrinkles and completely removes fine wrinkles, makes the skin young and elastic, provides hydration and prevents moisture loss.

Synegria for solving various skin problems

Synergy with cashmere proteins

Softening – nutrition – regeneration – anti-wrinkle. Ionization (+).

Active components: hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed cashmere proteins.

Regenerating serum helps reduce the depth of wrinkles and promotes the synthesis of collagen and elastin. Provides hydration, lifting effect, and skin elasticity.

Synergy with proteins

Firmness – elasticity – reduction of wrinkles – hydration.

Active components: collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, complex of saccharides.

Protein serum is suitable for all skin types, especially atopic, aging skin with loss of elasticity and wrinkles. It has a moisturizing, nourishing effect, gives a lifting and revitalizing effect, and helps reduce the formation of wrinkles.

Synergy for sensitive skin

Calming – strengthening capillaries – hydration – nutrition. Ionization (+).

Active ingredients: extracts of blueberries, lingonberries, bitter orange, lavender, chamomile, butcher's broom, common linden, witch hazel, lemon balm, vitamins C, groups B, H, PP and E.

This synergy is suitable for sensitive skin, helps moisturize, soothe the skin, relieve redness and irritation, strengthen the walls of blood vessels, and prevent capillary rupture. Plant extracts in the serum formulation help moisturize, soothe the skin, relieve redness and irritation, strengthen the walls of blood vessels, and prevent capillary rupture, leading to the formation of rosacea. Vitamins have antioxidant and nutritional effects. Blueberry extract has a positive effect on dry and tired skin, is indispensable for caring for the skin around the eyes, as well as sagging and aging skin, normalizes local blood circulation, strengthens the walls of blood vessels, helps eliminate bags and circles under the eyes. Chamomile extract has an anti-inflammatory effect, softens and soothes the skin, stimulates healing and cell renewal, and soothes sensitive skin around the eyes. Butcher's broom root extract helps accelerate metabolic processes, activating local blood circulation, reduces visible bags and circles under the eyes (associated with lack of sleep, poor lymph and blood circulation). Linden extract has a soothing, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial effect, increases skin elasticity, and smoothes wrinkles. Witch hazel extract has an astringent, bacteriostatic and healing effect, strengthens the walls of blood vessels, improves microcirculation and elasticity of capillary walls, prevents the appearance of spider veins, flavonoids and proanthocyanidins are powerful antioxidants, protect the skin from damage by free radicals. Melissa extract reduces irritation, has antispasmodic activity, has a calming effect, refreshes tired skin, and reduces its sensitivity to sunlight. Synergy is suitable for sensitive skin that reacts to emotions, external and internal changes with redness, tingling and burning, and rupture of capillaries.

Synergy to restore skin pH

Active components: urea, allantoin, extracts of witch hazel, linden, butcher's broom.

pH restoration serum increases the protective properties of all skin types, especially sensitive and acne-prone. It has a calming and softening effect, gives freshness, moisturizes, and reduces flaking of the skin.

Synergy for skin exfoliation

Lightening - silky skin. Ionization (–).

Active ingredients: grape snail secretion filtrate, AHA acids, salicylic acid, papaya enzyme, zinc, vitamin C.

A detoxifying exfoliant serum removes dead cells, free radicals and harmful substances from the skin's surface.

Synergy for acne skin

Mineralization – against acne and inflammation – moisturizing – narrowing pores. Ionization (–)

Active components: oils of lavender angustifolia, lemon, clary sage, niola, melaleuca algae.

The serum has an antibacterial, detoxifying effect, helps restore pH, relieves inflammation, soothes the skin, and reduces the formation of acne. Synergy is suitable for oily, problematic, acne-prone skin.

Moisturizing synergy

Hydration - filling. Ionization (–).

Active ingredients: ceramides, plant stem cells, urea, NMF moisturizing factor, hyaluronic acid, calendula and aloe extracts.

Serum for dry, sensitive skin has a regenerating soothing effect, renews the natural metabolism of cells, gives the skin moisture and helps maintain hydration of the dermis, returns radiance and elasticity to tired skin under stress, necessary for proper cell function.

Synergy with seaweed

Mineralization – hydration – antioxidant. Ionization (+/–).

Active components: extracts of spirulina, kelp, chlorella, hyaluronic acid.

Serum with a high content of seaweed, which has a nourishing and regenerating effect, for aging skin with signs of aging. Seaweed provides the skin with essential minerals, proteins and hydration, helping to reduce the formation of wrinkles. Algae are a source of important minerals needed by the skin, polysaccharides (restoration of the epidermal barrier), regulatory molecules (cytokines), antioxidants and many other biologically active substances. Algae extracts have the ability to adsorb toxins and products of cellular metabolism, slow down the aging process of the skin, and have a regenerating, antioxidant, moisturizing, light whitening, anti-inflammatory and wound-healing effect. Spirulina contains about 65% complete protein, which includes 18 amino acids, RNA and DNA nucleic acids, xanthophyll, vitamins B1, B2, B5, B6, B12, PP, trace elements, phycocyanin, polysaccharides and sulfolipids. Spirulina proteins promote the synthesis of elastin and stimulate the maintenance of skin elasticity. Chlorella is a green microalgae with a high concentration of chlorophyll, has strong antioxidant properties, prevents skin aging and improves cell regeneration, tightens the skin.

Synergy for skin plumping and regeneration

Regeneration – reduction of wrinkles.

Active ingredients: jojoba oil, vitamins A, C and E, wheat protein and sunflower oils, panthenol.

A powerful oil serum that energizes skin cells. Activates the synthesis of collagen and elastin to increase skin firmness and elasticity.

Synergy with lifting effect

Lifting – wrinkle reduction – hydration. Ionization (+).

Active components: peptides, grape snail secretion filtrate, collagen, elastin, vitamin C.

A serum with a lifting effect gives tired, dehydrated skin firmness, elasticity, hydration, reduces deep wrinkles, the skin becomes full, elastic, and has a healthy, radiant appearance. Active components improve metabolic processes in the skin, remove toxins and waste, strengthen cell membranes, tighten the facial contour, and slow down the aging process.

***

The technological protocol for the procedure using active components consists of several stages:

  • cleansing and toning the skin;
  • applying the serum to the skin of the face, neck and décolleté: water serums – 5–10 drops, oil serums – 2–5 drops. It is recommended to apply the water/gel based product first, then the oil based product;
  • applying gel/cream around the eyes and face cream.


Table 1. Use of active ingredients in professional procedures

Purpose

Suitable active ingredient

For dry skin

Vitamins A, E, and C, panthenol, urea, hyaluronic acid, fructose, glucose, sucrose, NMF moisturizing factor, ceramide complex, plant stem cells, calendula officinalis extracts, aloe barbadensis, spirulina, kelp, chlorella, argan prickly oil, jojoba , wheat proteins, patchouli and sunflower, orange seeds, coenzyme Q 10, essential oils of sunflower, orange, sweet almond

For oily skin with acne

Oils of lavender angustifolia, lemon, clary sage, nyola, melaleuca rosacea, zinc, vitamin C, retinol, snail secretion, AHA acids, salicylic acid, papaya enzyme, essential oils of lemon, common thyme, rosemary, lavender angustifolia, lemon balm

For sensitive skin with rosacea

Panthenol, extracts of blueberry, chamomile, butcher's broom, linden, witch hazel, lemon balm, vitamins C, B1, B2, B6, B12, H, PP and E, baobab oils, argan prickly, spirulina extracts, kelp, chlorella, hydrolyzed cashmere proteins

For skin with pigmentation

Vitamins A and C, panthenol, spirulina, kelp, chlorella extracts, retinol, grape seed oil, coenzyme Q10

For skin 35+ with the first signs of aging

Hydrolyzed cashmere proteins, argan oil, hyaluronic acid, multivitamins, vitamin E, coenzyme Q10, collagen, peptides, elastin, spirulina, kelp, chlorella extracts

For mature skin 45+

Peptides, grape snail secretion, hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed collagen, elastin and cashmere proteins, goji berry extract, vitamins A, E and C, argan oils, jojoba, wheat proteins, sunflower, grape seeds, coenzyme Q10

For the skin around the eyes

Collagen, peptides, elastin, hyaluronic acid, urea, vitamins A, C and E, jojoba oils, wheat proteins, sunflower, grape seeds, coenzyme Q10, panthenol, ceramide complex, plant stem cells, urea, NMF moisturizing factor, calendula officinalis extracts and aloe barbadensis, peptides, grape snail secretion, goji berry extract


Table 2. Use of active ingredients in home care to prolong the effect of a professional procedure

Purpose

Suitable care

Dry sensitive young skin

Milk: vitamins C, E, hyaluronic acid, panthenol 5 drops, urea – 10 drops.

Tonic: baobab, hyaluronic acid – 5 drops, vitamin C, panthenol – 10 drops.

Day cream: vitamins A and C, saccharides, hyaluronic acid – 5 drops, panthenol – 10 drops.

Dry sensitive mature skin

Milk: vitamins A and E – 5 drops, Q10 – 10 drops.

Tonic: collagen, elastin – 10 drops, panthenol, vitamins E and C – 5 drops.

Day cream: multivitamins – 20 drops, Q10 – 10 drops, baobab, collagen, elastin – 5 drops.

Night cream: multivitamins – 10 drops, Q10 – 10 drops, hyaluronic acid – 10 drops, peptides – 10 drops.

Oily skin with acne

Milk: vitamin C – 10 drops.

Tonic: urea – 10 drops, vitamin C – 5 drops.

Cream: urea – 10 drops, vitamin C, zinc, retinol – 5 drops.

Couperose young skin

Milk: vitamins C and E, hyaluronic acid – 5 drops, panthenol – 10 drops.

Tonic: urea, hyaluronic acid – 5 drops, vitamin C – 10 drops.

Cream: vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, urea – 5 drops, multivitamins – 10 drops.

Couperous mature skin

Milk: baobab – 10 drops, vitamin C, collagen, elastin – 5 drops.

Tonic: urea – 10 drops, vitamins E and C – 5 drops.

Cream: peptides, collagen, elastin, urea, baobab – 5 drops, multivitamins, vitamin C – 10 drops.

Eye care

Vitamins C and E, collagen, elastin, baobab, coenzyme Q10 – 5 drops.

The full version of the article can be read in Les Nouvelles Esthetiques 4 (110)/2018

Read also