Biologically active components: synergy of vitamins and minerals

Active components differ in origin, structure, effect on the skin and its appendages, have a superficial effect or penetrate into various layers of the skin, and can have a general effect on the body. Extracts, vitamins, essential oils, microelements, phospholipids, etc. are very popular in professional dermatocosmetics. Based on their origin, active ingredients are divided into plant extracts, seafood, vitamins, micro- and macroelements, fruit extracts, specific components, essential oils.

Serums with active ingredients can be included in salon procedures and home care as an independent product, combined with several serums or added to cosmetic products.

To protect the skin from harmful factors, use:

• film-forming substances - chitosan, hyaluronic acid, aloe gel, collagen, synthetic and semi-synthetic polymers, which, once on the surface of the skin, form a thin transparent coating on it. This film does not prevent the skin from breathing and getting rid of toxins, but protects it from minor damage, dirt and microorganisms. All film-forming substances retain moisture well, therefore moisturize the skin and protect it from dehydration;
• antioxidants – protect the skin from free radicals;
• antimicrobial agents - contain bactericidal substances that are non-toxic to skin cells. Substances such as triclosan are used in cases where the microbial load on the skin increases (when working in the garden, going outdoors, in hospitals, etc.). In other cases, plant extracts of aseptic action are used;
• oils and essential oils – are added to special creams for regeneration, nutrition and filling, to ensure skin protection;
• immunomodulators – change the speed and direction of skin immune reactions. Used to combat allergic dermatitis and inflammatory skin diseases;
• regulators of the synthesis of biological molecules - encourage skin cells to increase the synthesis of vital molecules or, conversely, give them a signal to reduce the rate of synthesis - stimulators of collagen synthesis (vitamin C, fruit acids) and regulators of sebum production (antiandrogens, phytoestrogens).

Vitamins and minerals

Vitamin A

Regeneration – anti-aging – reduction of wrinkles.

This is one of the most important vitamins for the skin, which promotes regeneration, acts against the formation of wrinkles, has a moisturizing effect, regulates the production of fat, preserves the tan of the skin, stimulates the production of melanin, and promotes the formation of connective tissue.

Vitamin A is involved in ensuring the structural integrity of epithelial tissue and helps restore the normal function of the epidermis and connective tissue. With its deficiency, dry and pale skin, brittle nails and hair are observed, and acne appears on the face.

Vitamin C

Lightening – elasticity – antioxidant – rejuvenating effect.

Supports the formation of collagen in the skin and has a strong antioxidant effect, protects the skin from exposure to UV radiation, enhances collagen synthesis, accelerates wound healing, and slows down aging. After tanning, it brightens and evens out skin color and strengthens capillaries. In spring, it returns the skin to a healthy appearance. With a lack of vitamin C, regeneration and healing processes slow down, pale and dry skin appears, and follicular hyperkeratosis occurs.

Vitamin E (tocopherol)

Regeneration – wrinkle reduction – antioxidant – rejuvenating effect.

It acts against the formation of free radicals, protects the skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation, relieves swelling and irritation of the skin, has a stimulating and regenerating effect, prevents the destruction of collagen and elastin, slows down the aging process, enhances the ability of the stratum corneum to maintain natural moisture. Inside the cell, tocopherol is associated with organelles that have developed membrane structures, for example, mitochondria. Vitamin E is especially effective against lipid peroxide radicals and is a reliable protector of lipid membranes, stopping the process of lipid peroxidation. It should be recommended for dry and aging skin, eczema and acne.

Synergy of vitamins A, C and E

Regeneration – wrinkle reduction – antioxidant – rejuvenating effect – brightening.

Together, these vitamins have a strong antioxidant effect, promote hydration, cell regeneration, slow down the aging process, and provide a rejuvenating effect. Vitamins C and E are the body's main protectors against the oxidative effects of free radicals. Recommended as a complex therapy to improve the quality of the skin in general.

Zinc

Mineralization – for acne and skin inflammation. Ionization (–).

A microelement with an anti-inflammatory healing effect improves skin structure and has an antioxidant effect, regulates the functioning of the sebaceous glands. Zinc regulates the exchange of male sex hormones in the skin and is used to reduce the level of sebum production. We recommend it for flaking skin, acne, eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis.

Plant extracts and essential oils

Grape seed extract

Moisturizing – antioxidant – regeneration.

Contains triglycerides of linoleic (70%) and oleic (25%) acids, tannins, lecithin, carotene, sugars, choline, betaine; salts of potassium, sodium, phosphorus, iron, silicon; vitamins A, B1, B2, C, silicic and salicylic acids. The active components of the oil help strengthen the connective tissue of the skin, stimulate cell renewal, have an anti-inflammatory and healing effect with pronounced antioxidant properties. Fruit acids smooth out fine wrinkles, have a regenerating effect on the upper layers of the epidermis, support collagen formation, moisturize and rejuvenate the skin. The active ingredients help smooth out wrinkles, slow down the aging process of the skin, have a strong regenerating property, and give the skin energy.

Baobab

Calming – nutrition – regeneration.

Baobab nut extract contains a large amount of β-carotene, which successfully fights the oxidative processes of cell membrane lipids, vitamins A, B1, C, D, E and F, and tartaric acid. Acts as a strong antioxidant, dissolves the upper, keratinized layer of the epidermis, has a strong regenerating effect, nourishes and moisturizes the skin, promotes the formation of collagen and elastin. Suitable for all skin types, especially sensitive and couperose, does not cause allergies.

Argan prickly oil

Regeneration – anti-aging – nutrition – rejuvenating effect.

Products high in argan oil have a moisturizing and antioxidant effect and reduce expression lines. Suitable for all types, especially for skin with signs of aging.

Synergy of essential oils for oily skin with acne

Against the formation of acne and inflammation - moisturizing - narrowing pores.

Essential oils of lemon, common thyme, rosemary, angustifolia lavender, and lemon balm have a strong anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effect, thoroughly cleanse pores and acne-prone skin. Recommended for spot application on inflammatory elements every day; during mechanical cleaning, applied to areas with acne.

Synergy of essential oils to moisturize the skin

Moisturizing – regeneration – anti-aging.

The combination of essential oils of almond, sunflower, orange, orange seed oil and patchouli improves complexion, softens the skin, has a moisturizing effect, and retains the necessary moisture in the skin. In combination with baobab and grape seeds it gives excellent results in improving skin condition and a rejuvenating effect.

The full version of the article can be read in Les Nouvelles Esthetiques 4 (110)/2018