Visage in permanent make-up: “reading” the face of the client

Olena Onufriychuk , PM master, make-up artist-stylist, international make-up master, certified make-up judge of Ukraine, bronze medalist of the World Championship in hairdressing art in the body art nomination (Paris, 2010), graduate of the Ukrainian branch of the International Training Center Bogomolov` Image School (2010)

Many masters, when starting eyebrow PM, strive to fulfill the wishes of clients one hundred percent, while losing the fact that a certain shape of the eyebrow will not be appropriate on every face. Let's figure out which eyebrows are needed depending on the totality of all facial features.

Looking through the photos of the PM eyebrows made by colleagues, you involuntarily analyze the shape: this is already a professional look of a make-up artist with 17 years of experience. The profession of an eyebrow artist did not yet exist in those distant times, but work with form and color was carried out. How professional the makeup artist is, I judge not only by the purity of the shading, but also by the purity and logic of the shape of the eyebrows. I would like to take a closer look at the components of the shape of the eyebrows and understand what they affect on the face.

gold standards

The task of the PM master, as well as the make-up artist, is to bring any face as close as possible to ideal proportions - so to speak, to “pull out” beauty from it. To do this, you need to know these ideal proportions like the back of your hand and see how they differ in your client - in other words, be able to read the face.

Rice. 1-2

Let's start the analysis with the well-known scheme of the ideal eye ( Fig. 1 ).

Often the construction of the eyebrow shape in the PM corresponds to these parameters: the beginning and tail of the eyebrow lie on the same horizontal axis of the eyebrow, and the tail does not fall below its level. Particular attention should be paid to this fact, since the lowering of the tail of the eyebrow visually adds age, fills up the shape of the eye even with its classical form, and makes the expression sad. And the eyebrow should have a positive direction, that is, in its movement, strive upwards.

At the break point, the eyebrow is divided into two segments: two thirds - the body, one third - the tail. The beginning of the eyebrow lies on a vertical line that rises from the wing of the nose and passes through the inner corner of the eye. For the most part, PM masters determine the starting point of the head in this way, drawing this perpendicular line and completely removing the hairs that are still in the space between the eyebrows. Only here the fact is not taken into account that this scheme corresponds to a perfectly proportional face, where all proportions are observed in accordance with the rule of the golden section. Let us recall these proportions ( Fig. 2 ).

The main thing to consider when working with a face is that it is divided into three equal parts by two parallel lines passing through the lower points of the eyebrows (1st line) and the tip of the nose (2nd line). That is, the eyebrows are the upper border of the middle part of the face and the lower border of the upper part. This location of the eyebrow can be used as an element for correcting the shape of the face. By changing the shape of the eyebrow, we can increase or decrease the upper or middle part of the face.

• A line through the inner corners of the eyes, or axis of the eyes, bisects the head.
• The distance between the eyes is equal to the length of the palpebral fissure, and two of the same segments still “fit” to the tips of the ears, that is, “five eyes” - this is the distance from ear to ear. These are rather large eyes, which are not so common in life. And it is necessary to analyze the shape of the face when building eyebrows during the PM procedure, paying close attention to this fact.
• The width of the tip of the nose, that is, the distance between its wings, is also equal to the length of the eye (this is a fairly neat tip of the nose).

And the most interesting thing is that often masters do not take into account the proportions of an ideal nose when working with a face.

Choose "pattern"

The angle between the back of the nose and the forehead is 35 degrees on the female face - this is the angle at which the nose protrudes above the plane of the face. The angle between the nasal septum and the upper lip is 105 degrees, that is, the tip of the nose should be slightly upturned. The main thing to focus on is the structure and width of the back of the nose. It is a smoothly curved line, slightly diverging to the sides near the tip of the nose. The line should be symmetrical on both sides and not make sharp jumps. Such a thin tip of the nose gives the face an aristocracy. With such a perfect nose, an eyebrow starting at the same level as the inner corner of the eye is quite logical.

Scheme of a face "built" according to ideal proportions (Fig. 3) and a scheme of a face with a wide tip of the nose (Fig. 4).

Scheme of a face “built” according to ideal proportions (Fig. 3)

In life, such neatly shaped noses are rare. Deviations can be in different directions: a wide bridge of the nose - with a narrow tip, a wide teardrop-shaped tip - with a rather narrow back, a wide nose from the bridge of the nose to the tip, uneven, with a clear hump. And this is all with the parameters of ideal face proportions, when the distance between the eyes is equal to the width of the eye. In these variations, the head of the eyebrow, tied to the inner corner of the eye, makes the shape such that it only emphasizes the disproportions, increasing the shape of the nose. Let's take a closer look at these options.

Scheme of a face with a wide tip of the nose (Fig. 4).

Such perfectly proportioned eyebrows on a similar face increase the size of the nose. In life, on a face with such a nose, eyebrows usually cohabitate, which are slightly narrower towards each other, thereby visually making the nose look smaller. As they say, nature is not a fool, and you should not expand the bridge of the nose, enlarging the nose.

Rice. 5-6

Face with a wide bridge of the nose (Fig. 5).

The beginning of the eyebrow is in the same place - on a perpendicular raised from the corner of the eye, and this makes the nose spread over the face. To visually narrow it slightly, it is necessary to reduce the distance between the eyebrows, which usually happens on such a face. Therefore, it is not recommended to push the eyebrows according to the ideal eye scheme in this case.

Scheme of a face with a wide nose along the entire length (Fig. 6).

Ideal proportions, when the distance between the eyes is equal to the width of the eye, are observed here. If we pluck the eyebrows on such a face, completely clearing the bridge of the nose from hairs, and make a PM according to this form, we focus on the width of the nose, turning it into a “potato”.

Rice. 7-8

The same story will turn out with a hump nose (Fig. 7) . With our own hands, we will add oriental charisma to the appearance of the client, bringing the nose to the fore.

Scheme of a face with widely spaced eyes (Fig. 8).

In this case, widely spaced eyebrows make the facial expression characterless, melancholy, dispersed, defocused. With small proportions, the nose may visually appear larger due to the enlarged bridge of the nose. If the shape of the eyebrow makes a sharp rise from the bridge of the nose, then it is desirable to build the shape more horizontally as they approach each other.

With the powder technique of the permanent, you can not be afraid to build the head of the eyebrow closer than the inner corner of the eye, since the shading in it is made lighter and more transparent, and there will be no frowning or gloomy facial expression.

Rice. 9-10

On this face ( Fig. 9 ), the eyes and eyebrows also correspond to the ideal proportions of the eye (see Fig. 1), when viewed separately from the face. But for this face, these eyes are too small in size, so they look close-set . And such an eyebrow only emphasizes their small shape.

The eyebrow is also important in correcting the shape of the face. If the face has a beveled structure of the temporal bone, the narrow growth of the hairline and the tail of the eyebrow goes along the temporal bone parallel to this line, thereby further aggravating the narrowing of the face, the shape of the face is diamond-shaped. The break point of the eyebrow is closer than two-thirds from the head, turning the shape into a triangular one. When building, you should try to lengthen the body of the eyebrow, soften the shape and open the eye.

Narrow forehead (Fig. 10). The eyebrow is also important in correcting the shape of the face. If the face has a beveled structure of the temporal bone, the narrow growth of the hairline and the tail of the eyebrow goes along the temporal bone parallel to this line, thereby further aggravating the narrowing of the face, the shape of the face is diamond-shaped. The break point of the eyebrow is closer than two-thirds from the head, turning the shape into a triangular one. When building, you should try to lengthen the body of the eyebrow, soften the shape and open the eye.

You can talk endlessly about the shape of the eyebrow, analyzing each individual case. I would like to summarize: when we determine what form we are going to draw now, it is necessary to analyze the whole face, all its features, including the oval, the hairline, the length and width of the nose, and the ratio of parts of the face, and not just the eyes.

The material was first published in Permanent No. 2(10)/2018