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The presented article is an exclusive translation of the material published on the website of the international journal for micropigmentation specialists PMU International. Magazine of Permanent Makeup. Original article link

What is the main beauty secret? Women have tried to find the answer to this question for centuries, but it is very simple: beautiful skin !

The condition of the skin can give a lot of information about people's age and health: certain skin conditions, such as dullness, acne, age spots, wrinkles and others, can be as informative as medical records.

Fortunately, the epidermis is able to quickly recover and change for the better. This ability is the basic principle of the most popular cosmetic procedure - peels.

Peels can be called a universal remedy for skin imperfections. The word "peeling" comes from the English peel and means "to clean", "cleaning". In cosmetology, the word "exfoliation" is often used. Peeling can involve the use of various products and ingredients, but the main goal of any peeling procedure is to stimulate skin regeneration and restore a youthful appearance.

Skin peel types

Peelings vary depending on the depth as well as the technique used for the procedure. All types of skin exfoliation, to a greater or lesser extent, affect the stratum corneum of the epidermis and stimulate the production of new cells, often peels are a preparatory stage before subsequent procedures.

Superficial , or light, peels are the softest, affecting only the stratum corneum of the epidermis.

Medium depth peels penetrate deeper into the skin.

Deep peels are the most traumatic procedures that cause severe burns, partially or completely damaging the basement membrane.

Peeling procedures are also divided into several groups depending on the technique used. The most popular are mechanical (using abrasive particles), chemical (including activation of microcirculation caused by chemical stimulation) and enzymatic or enzymatic peels (based on the use of enzymes of plant or animal origin).

Most types of peeling are recommended during the period of least solar activity (for Europeans, this is the period from October to March). The reason is that the new layers of the skin are very sensitive, and UV radiation can cause age spots. For the same reason, during and some time after the peeling course, it is recommended to use cosmetics with SPF, avoid sunburn and trips to the sea.

Mechanical peels

Mechanical peeling procedures are carried out using abrasives, this can be done manually or with the help of special machines. The rule “the more natural the better” cannot be applied in this situation, because the best abrasives are actually synthetic: they have a perfectly round shape that helps to clean the skin without scratching it (that is, without damaging it).

The main contraindications for mechanical peels are the same as for other types of peeling: skin inflammation, open wounds, burns, dermatosis, etc.

Scrubs are gentle, superficial peels, usually a gel or creamy substance with abrasive particles. Scrubs not only renew the skin, but can also have a soothing, moisturizing and nourishing effect. Scrubs as beauty products are designed for regular use and are often included in home care routines. It is recommended to use scrubs once every two weeks for dry and sensitive skin and once a week for normal to oily skin.

Gommage is a cosmetic product that is used to remove dead skin cells. This is a gentler form of exfoliation that combines chemical exfoliation through the use of enzymes with mechanical exfoliation through friction. The name gommage comes from a French word that means "to erase". First of all, a cream or paste with herbal enzymes is applied to the skin, and the enzymes soften the top layer of the epidermis. After a few minutes, when the gommage dries, it is washed off the skin, while removing dead skin cells, as well as pieces of dirt. Gommage is not recommended for thin, sensitive and mature skin, however, in case of dry, oily and normal skin, it can be used regularly once a week.

Microdermabrasion is a type of skin exfoliation that involves the use of small crystals (such as diamond, aluminum, salt) using special equipment. By adjusting the pressure, you can perform superficial, medium or deep peeling procedures. It is necessary to undergo a course of procedures that can only be carried out in beauty salons, and not at home. Microdermabrasion is recommended for people with dull or pale skin, mild acne, age spots, wrinkles, and very superficial acne scars. Depending on the severity of the problem, 5 to 10 treatments may be required.

Chemical peel

Chemical peeling is carried out using various acids. Exfoliants are substances that remove dead cells from the surface of the skin. This procedure must be strictly controlled due to the risk of chemical burns to the skin of the face.

There are indications for each type of chemical peel. As for contraindications, chemical peeling is not recommended in the following cases: periods of pregnancy and lactation, the presence of inflammation and open wounds on the skin, colds and infectious diseases, as well as hypersensitivity to chemicals and drugs.

Chemical peeling with fruit acids

Superficial and medium chemical peels using fruit acids (AHAs) are considered to be one of the safest yet most effective treatments. These treatments are mainly recommended for women of a certain age (20-35 years old) with skin problems such as acne or the first signs of aging.

In addition to the main purpose of exfoliation (i.e., cleansing the skin and stimulating the production of new cells), acids help solve other problems. For example, mandelic acid has anti-inflammatory, bacteriostatic, antioxidant and whitening effects. Lactic acid has a strong moisturizing and brightening effect; it helps to rejuvenate the skin and stimulates collagen synthesis. Glycolic acid has a rejuvenating and firming effect, it also eliminates dark spots.

A course of several treatments is usually recommended for good results and may serve as a preparatory step before other treatments.

Salicylic and TCA peels

Salicylic and trichloroacetic acids are often used for medium depth peels. This procedure cannot be used as a home treatment as it is considered to be medical rather than aesthetic. Indications for these types of peeling are acne, post-acne, fine wrinkles, freckles and age spots, as well as a dull complexion. It is recommended to start preparing the skin and the body as a whole about a month before the course of procedures:

- stop using scrubs and facial brushes;

- include a day cream with SPF 50 in your home care routine;

- two weeks before the first procedure, start using cosmetic products with fruit acids or conduct a course of superficial peeling procedures (if recommended by a cosmetologist);

- a few days before the first procedure, start taking antiviral drugs , stop sunbathing (including a solarium), go to the sauna, take hot baths and pluck your eyebrows.

Redness and swelling may occur immediately after a medium-depth peel, but these symptoms usually disappear within a few days. The recovery period is about one month, during which time the skin exfoliates and actively renews itself. A month later, the final result is noticeable. If necessary, the procedure can be repeated for best results.

Phenolic chemical peel

Deep peeling based on the use of phenolic acid is the strongest type of peeling and is recommended for aging skin. The procedure helps to get rid of pronounced wrinkles, as well as scars. This type of peeling is considered very invasive and can only be performed in a clinic, usually under general anesthesia. The recovery period usually takes about six months, but the rejuvenation effect lasts ten years or more.

A deep chemical peel can only be done once in a lifetime. It is important to know that phenol peeling completely destroys the cells that produce melanin. This treatment is not recommended for dark-skinned women, as the facial skin may appear much lighter than the skin on the neck as a result.

It is also important to remember that after a deep peeling procedure, the skin will remain very sensitive and will need to be protected from direct sunlight for the rest of its life, using cosmetics with a high SPF every day.

Enzymatic peels

Enzymatic peels are safer for all skin types because they do not damage the skin and are not as harsh as chemical peels, but at the same time they are very effective. Active elements are enzymes - organic substances of animal or plant origin, which act as catalysts (accelerators) of chemical reactions in the body.

Enzyme peels can be used on all skin types, including sensitive and rosacea-prone skin. As a result of the course, tissue turgor improves, fine wrinkles disappear, pores narrow, post-acne and age spots disappear, and the activity of the sebaceous glands decreases. Another advantage of enzyme peels is that they can be performed at any time of the year and are not prohibited during pregnancy and lactation.

The course of enzyme peels is carried out with the following frequency of procedures: 1-2 times a week - for normal or oily skin, 1 time every 7-10 days - for sensitive or dry skin. Treatment does not require a recovery period, since peeling does not cause redness or peeling of the skin.

Like any cosmetic procedure, enzyme peels have contraindications. These are skin diseases in the period of exacerbation, inflammation of the skin, open wounds, herpes, diabetes, colds and infections.

We have categorized the most popular skin restoration methods currently in use. Knowing the purpose and characteristics of each of them, it is easy to predict the result and achieve the desired effect. It is important to remember that skin imperfections are nothing more than a problem that can be solved. It remains only to choose the optimal strategy for achieving the goal.