PM of the periorbital region: advice from Anna Zabolotnaya

Anna Zabolotnaya, head of the Biotek International Academy of PM and Aesthetic Dermo-Pigmentation (Russia), certified artist, international class master teacher in permanent make-up, aesthetic dermopigmentation and trichopigmentation, winner of the first Contour of the Century competition (2003), judge of permanent make-up championships in Russia and abroad, lecturer at the International University of PM (Milan, Italy) (Russia)

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Solutions that the master can offer

What does aesthetic dermopigmentation offer? Almost the same, only easier and safer.

The method of eliminating hyperpigmentation of the periorbital area has become a logical continuation of the development of the method of shading on depigmented areas of the skin, and especially on the upper eyelids, the skin of which is similar in structure to the skin under the eyes.

Of all the shading methods for removing hyperpigmentation, two are best suited. The first is good old pointillism.

The idea of using pointillism is based on the fact that the skin has a very heterogeneous color, and if we examine it, say, under a microscope, we will see by no means a monochrome pinkish canvas, but an accumulation of countless dots, the color of which often does not correspond at all to that to which we are used to: there will be green, and blue, and gray, and yellow blotches, which, when mixed optically, if you look at them with the naked eye, give the desired natural skin color.

The second method of shading, which has proven itself in eliminating hyperpigmentation of the area around the eyes, is glazing. This method also came to permanent makeup from the world of art and is a shading with a highly diluted pigment, which is applied to the skin layer by layer.

If the pointillism method creates the necessary color in one plane, then glazing with pigments diluted almost to transparency, as it were, recreates thin layers of the epidermis, each of which also has its own color. Overlaying transparent layers of different shades on top of each other eventually leads to the fact that the hyperpigmented area acquires a natural color.

Before and after correction. Photos provided by the author

Features of work in the area around the eyes

When removing bruises, the order in which pigments of certain colors are applied is very important. First of all, it is necessary to neutralize the blue. For this we use highly diluted pink or orange pigments. Then we proceed to apply pigments close to the color of the skin. And in the end, with the help of white pigment, we paint over wrinkles, visually leveling the skin.

Pigments are selected depending on the main skin color and should not be more than one and a half shades lighter, otherwise you can get the opposite effect: the area around the eyes will be too light, as if the client had just returned from a ski resort.

Usually for work I take 2⎼3 pigments of different colors to achieve more naturalness: pinkish, yellowish and white. Considering that our skin is heterogeneous in texture and color, applying translucent layers of pigment on top of each other, in the end we should get a very natural result.

When mixing or superimposing primary and complementary colors, the master must constantly keep in mind the rules of color: which colors are intensifying for others, and which, on the contrary, visually extinguish the colors located nearby. Therefore, starting to work, you should definitely remember the importance of the sequence of applying specific colors.

Light and warm shades create the illusion of volume. Dark and cold colors, on the contrary, visually reduce the object. However, before choosing the right color, make sure it matches the client's skin tone.

Do not mix more than three colors ⎼ to avoid contamination of the ink mixture. When mixing paints, one should take into account the processes that lead to a change in color associated with the chemical interaction of pigments when mixing some paints, ⎼ darkening, fading.

The color in electric light is different from the color in natural light. This is explained by the fact that all artificial sources of illumination, compared with sunlight, give light with a very small content of blue and violet rays. Therefore, all colors in artificial lighting naturally change their tone.

Do not be afraid that immediately after the procedure, the client will experience slight swelling and small dotted petechiae (hemorrhages). This is because under the influence of an anesthetic, the skin turns white and minor injuries become more noticeable on it. This is temporary and will soon pass.

By the way, skin lightening under the influence of an anesthetic can significantly complicate the work. In addition, to improve the effect, the process of eliminating hyperpigmentation in the periorbital zone is necessarily divided into several stages. Therefore, one procedure, as a rule, lasts no more than an hour. We do not recommend that masters use too many anesthetics. It is enough to confine ourselves to Mesonamb application ointment.

The material was first published in Permanent No. 4(9)\2017