Pigments for PM for trichopigmentation: application features

Permanent makeup has rapidly become a popular salon procedure. But many perceive it solely as an opportunity to brighten facial features. However, permanent makeup goes beyond these stereotypes and every year it becomes more and more in demand in new areas of aesthetic cosmetology. So, in a short period of time, we received a new procedure with the widest range of indications - trichopigmentation. Behind such a complex and frightening name lies a painless imitation of hair using permanent makeup methods. And although this procedure is called an optical illusion, for many it can be a real salvation, a chance to regain attractiveness.

The presented article is an exclusive translation of the material published on the website of the international journal for micropigmentation specialists PMU International. Magazine of Permanent Makeup. Original article - link

Features of the use of pigments for PM in trichopigmentation

The inability to create realistic looking hair with permanent makeup mainly depends on how the pigment is applied. Here is what every permanent makeup artist should consider:

• The color of the pigment should match the complexion, although it should be borne in mind that even the stubble of blond hair looks dark. Shades range from gray and light brown to black, depending on the patient's skin phototype and/or race. However, the use of black (mainly in African patients) can lead to the risk of severe color changes and greenish or bluish hair over time.
• The trichopigmentation technique recreates hair bristles between the pores of the scalp. To achieve a realistic result, the number of pores (that is, the hair follicles between them) must be taken into account, so the average level of hair density is usually determined by race. For Caucasians, this is an average of 50,000 follicular units, for Asians - 40,000, for Africans - 30,000.
• The mechanism of the process of dermopigmentation of the scalp is limited to the introduction of a drop of pigment into the upper layer of the dermis using a thin needle that pierces the skin. Standard permanent makeup equipment allows the use of 1 to 6 No. 1 needles. To cover large areas, a hair follicle modeling roller can be used. The roller consists of 56 needles, which are staggered on the roller wheel. The device is controlled by a vibrating spring mechanism. As it moves across the scalp, it produces many small dots, giving the illusion of stubble hair. The roller saves up to 80% of the master's effort, however, once the wrong movement is made, it cannot be corrected, which presents a certain difficulty in application.
• The depth of insertion of the needle, the time spent by the needle in the scalp and the angle of the needle to the surface are the values controlled manually by the PM master. Since the thickness of the scalp varies in different areas, the master must constantly adapt to the resulting effect on the tactile and visual levels.
• A healthy scalp with a normal amount of subcutaneous adipose tissue and supporting infrastructure (such as blood vessels) is significantly different from an atrophic scalp and scar, so their turgor pressure will be different. A well-trained PM master must take into account the factor of skin resistance, since it often affects normal and abnormal conditions of the scalp in close proximity to each other in the same patient.
• The depth of pigment placement is the variable that most determines the success of a trichopigmentation procedure. Pigment injected too close to the surface of the scalp, i.e. into the epidermis, will leak out for several days after the treatment. Therefore, proper placement must be carried out in the dermis.