Alla Romazanova , PMU master since 2001, founder of the Association of PM Professionals in Belarus, head of the permanent makeup and female tattoo studio N1 (Minsk), founder of the PM school (Minsk), teacher and developer of PM curricula, manuals on realistic areola, waved brows, speaker and judge of the PM Championships

Refined arrows that will not turn into ugly lines over the years, skillfully selected shades of pigment that will not “mask” the natural color of the eyes - this is what we and our clients strive for. Advice from an experienced recognized specialist - for you

Permanent make-up of the eyelids is one of the most complex permanent make-up techniques. With its help, we can make the eyes more expressive, open. Depending on the goal and the result expected by the client, the master should use both linear technique and shadow shading. As for the basic knowledge in permanent make-up of the eyelids, the minimum of any program is to paint over the space between the eyelashes. The result of this procedure will be a more expressive look, and the eyelashes will appear more fluffy and much thicker.

As a rule, no one will even notice that some kind of procedure was performed on the eyelids: the inter-eyelash permanent looks so natural. Most likely, others will simply note that the look has become more expressive, as if something new has appeared in it. But here's what, not everyone can guess! It is important to remember that the coloring of the interciliary space very rarely makes the eye long. Basically, it shortens, as it were, cuts off the eye, so it is better to accompany the interlash with a small ponytail. Variations are possible here: you can give preference to shading or limit yourself to a thin line that imitates the last eyelash (see diagrams 1-4).

Indelible subtleties

The classic arrow, at first glance, suggests its execution with black pigment. I believe that we have no moral right to make the client a slave of our procedure. Let's be honest: since the existence of permanent makeup, not a single black color has left without a trace. Only shadow pigments are capable of this, lighter, more transparent. If a client or master expresses a desire to make a big arrow or a big shading, my recommendations are as follows: do it with shadow pigments. Such permanent makeup will not cause inconvenience to the client in the future. Shadow pigments are easy to remove, in addition, they are able to come out almost without a trace. If we are talking about a densely painted arrow, then everyone is trying to achieve the most black, charcoal version. It is this black that will remain for life.

Be humane to your clients and do not make black arrows further than the moving eyelid. Everything that comes out further is best applied pointwise, lightly and shading. The fashion for arrows has always changed, and is changing now. And since the time of Cleopatra, the vision of beautiful eyes has changed a lot. We must adhere to the classical canons, and then, no matter how the fashion changes, the client will always be beautiful, neat, tidy.

The main rule of working with any area: permanent makeup is not a replacement for decorative cosmetics! However, this rule does not work everywhere. In different countries, in different regions, the norms differ, and very brightly painted eyes can be quite common. For example, in Asian countries or even near Ukraine, girls are very brave and prefer active makeup. They are ready to get up every day with a full bright make-up. Here, in Belarus, the format of the arrows is a little more modest.

Infinite Palette

Remember: the classic arrow can be not only black! You can use both brown and wet asphalt. If we talk about the shades of pigments that are best for permanent makeup of the eyelids, I always try to find similar colors in the iris. And from this already to do some color accents. It is very good, for example, to focus on the pupil, or to add a little of this tonality to the shading, then everything has something in common and becomes one. But the main color of the eyes and the chosen tone must be different, otherwise, if you make shading to match the eye, the result will be a large smeared spot. Shading should be either darker or lighter. It should be remembered that the classic arrow goes to a very small number of people. This may be due to the fact that the skin on the eyelids ages the fastest, swelling and wrinkles appear. And the classic arrow, which was 20 years old, even after 10 years can swim and go down. Therefore, beware of pronounced linear work. They are beautiful now, but in 5-10 years they may be a problem.

Let's see what a riot of color we see in the eyes! Are such eyes, unique in their diversity, worthy of just a black and blue permanent arrow? I, as a painter, am happy to have new pigments, palettes where I can mix colors and get more complex intermediate shades. For shading eyelids, I really like NPM pigments. For more linear work, I use other, more concentrated pigments, such as Bioderm, Qolora. Now, for me, permanent eyelid makeup is creativity, which allows me to convey all the complexity of color and gradient in a small triangle. The gradient can be either vertical or horizontal. The first involves moving from dark to light - stretching from the bottom up. The second is when we go darker along the entire line from the tail, to the teardrop we stretch it into a lighter color.

Be sure to take into account the purpose of makeup, age and color type. Chiaroscuro, contrasting with the iris of the eyes, look better, since, being nearby, they reinforce each other. The classic of the genre and the most universal color of shadows is rightfully gray. The shades of this color are endless: silvery shade, dark gray, light gray, warm gray, from white to black. Anyone can choose their own shades of gray for eye makeup. Gray shadows - one or more shades at once - in combination with black mascara or black eyeliner (a very thin line or a little thicker) will emphasize any eye color.

There are also a variety of colors in my pigment palette, but the main ones that I like to use are, of course, more concentrated ones: radical black, graphite black, wet asphalt color, turning into light gray. Warmer grays are suitable for almost every eyelid, which are kneaded on the basis of brown shades, olive, which is especially good for brown-eyed and green-eyed girls. All this allows you to make eyelids more artistic, and an ignorant person will not distinguish whether a permanent is made or it's just a little makeup.

Apparatus and technology

If we talk about tools, then I work with different methods. I like to use 1 rl - for the thinnest, most critical areas, and sometimes for shading. But most often shading and large areas I prefer to do 3 rl and 5 rs. With 5 rs it is very good to lay NPM transparent shadow pigments. And after healing, they become pastel, velvety, transparent, like shadows. In devices, I like the modular system, and I choose textured needles - texture 1 rl. I use both primary and secondary anesthesia in the procedure for applying arrows, but I recommend using everything wisely so that anesthesia does not stay on the skin for a long time and does not add trauma by burning the wound surface.

In my works - experience, constant work, artistic vision, desire to develop and common sense. The latter is perhaps the most important in our business, as in any other job and in life in general. After all, if a modern woman has the opportunity to make her life easier, then, I think, it is unreasonable to refuse it. As an artist, I see a subtle and delicate work in permanent make-up of the eyelids, requiring special preparation. And as a woman, I appreciate it first of all for the opportunity to emphasize the look, often save time, be beautiful and save face under any circumstances. Actually, what I wish for everyone!

The material was first published in Permanent No. 3(11)/2018