Laser: life after the removal of low-quality permanent makeup

Inna Ovcharenko , international instructor-teacher KODI PROFESSIONAL, technologist in the direction of "permanent makeup", participant in international and world championships in permanent makeup and microblading, judge of the international category, developer of author's techniques in the PM

What happens to the pigment during the laser removal procedure? Laser radiation crushes the pigment due to the photoacoustic effect, this process occurs only in the upper layer of the skin. The pigment absorbs radiation and does not let it through to deeper layers. This is followed by a break in the procedure for a certain period, during which small particles of the destroyed pigment are removed from the body, the skin layer is cleansed and access to the pigment located in the lower layers of the skin is opened. And so, procedure after procedure, the skin is cleansed of pigment. But one should take into account the factor that sometimes the beam does not crush the pigment, but simply brightens it. And in the next procedure, the laser beam no longer sees the pigment that is behind the clarified dye layer. Therefore, during the repeated procedure of permanent makeup after healing, stains from the old tattoo are visible.

Why is this happening?

Penetration of the needle leads to damage to the epidermis, connective tissue fibers, skin cells and blood vessels. Paint crystals enter the papillary layer of the skin. Point hemorrhages appear at the site of injury. The response of the skin is the development of aseptic inflammation in the area of damage. It is accompanied by the expansion of capillaries, they overflow with blood, their walls become more permeable. As a result, plasma and blood cells - leukocytes and erythrocytes - enter the surrounding tissues. Visually, this process is accompanied by swelling, redness. The body begins to fight. Cells responsible for local immunity accumulate around the focus - active macrophages. Their task is to remove everything that interferes with the processes of normal life. They begin to phagocytize (devour) destroyed fibers and cells. Since pigment particles are also a foreign body, macrophages try to destroy them as well. As a result of incomplete phagocytosis, macrophages die, and the pigment remains. In parallel with phagocytosis, the process of skin regeneration proceeds. Fibroblast cells begin to actively produce collagen and elastin fibers, which mend the resulting tissue defect and braid the pigment particles with a mesh, limiting them from surrounding tissues. The cells of the epidermis intensively divide and cover the damaged surface. This process occurs under the crust formed after damage. As a result of an incomplete macrophage reaction, an epithelial bag is formed around the paint crystals, which retains the pigment in the skin for a long time (sometimes for a lifetime).

With repeated penetration of the needle, damage to the epidermis, connective tissue fibers, cells, blood vessels and epithelial sac around the clarified pigment occurs again. The immune system sees the foreign body and tries to get rid of it. In the process of struggle, the crystals turn over with their unlightened side, and after an incomplete macrophage reaction, an epithelial bag is again formed around the crystals, which retains the pigment in the skin. And after healing, it shines through the transparent layer of the epidermis in spots.

Tasks of the PM master after the laser procedure

The task of the permanent make-up master is to take into account these factors and, when repeating permanent make-up after laser removal, layer by layer different colors of the pigment, taking into account the color scheme.

1. We fix the sketch with the main color of the pigment.
2. We lay the color corrector tightly according to the color scheme.
3. We work with the main color.
4. Darken with a deeper color.

After healing, during the correction procedure, if the client has visible spots, we repeat everything step by step.

If the color is uniform, then work with the main color.

And of course, masters, always analyze the client's skin: the presence of fibrous tissue on it indicates that it is necessary to work with different techniques, since the technique of effective work on scars is very different from the usual one. After the first pass and secondary anesthesia, the remains of the old pigment are already visible, and, knowing the color scheme, you can already clearly select the next pigment.

Remember! Permanent makeup is the "brand" of the master. And it depends only on your skill whether it will be a sign of victory or a sign of your fiasco!

Photo 1 . Drawing a sketch

Photo 2-2a . We fix the sketch with the main color (MB02 pigment) and apply secondary anesthesia. For work I use the Kodi professional Diamond device and a 3SF needle

Photo 3 . Working with Purple out color corrector

Photo 4-7 . We work with the main color MB02, fix the Color Booster and apply secondary anesthesia

Photo 8-9. To darken and add volume, we use pigment B13

Photo 10 . We wipe off the residue and apply anesthesia. We work with the second eyebrow in the same sequence

Photo 11-12 . Final result

The material was first published in Permanent No. 1(13)/2019