Anti-age tattooing: features of work in the perioral zone

With age, due to soft tissue ptosis, the shape of the eyebrows changes, and their asymmetry becomes more pronounced. In addition, the hairs change color (brighten or turn gray), become thinner or, conversely, become thick and stiff, their number decreases, and the tips of individual hairs begin to twist. Before proceeding directly to the procedure of permanent makeup, it is necessary to pluck out all the extra hairs, and cut the twisted hairs. Gray eyebrows should be tinted regularly, as this cannot be done with permanent makeup.

For PM eyebrows, older clients should never use dark pigment. Such eyebrows are not young and look vulgar on the face. For clients of Balzac age, shades slightly lighter than hair should be preferred, and this also applies to blondes. The pigment is applied using the technique of hairs, then the eyebrows are light and do not overload the face.

You should also pay special attention to areas with alopecia (if the client has any). Usually the area of hair thinning has denser skin. The pigment on such areas falls worse and shines through the skin differently. The client must be warned about this and set up that several corrections may be required.

Eyebrow rejuvenation, as a rule, involves their visual lifting. Moreover, it is necessary to raise both the eyebrow itself and its tip. By the way, make-up artists have long used the so-called harmony lines in their work (Michel Durel's lifting makeup technique). It makes sense for PM masters to work along the same lines.

Eyebrows will appear higher if you highlight the lower part of the superciliary arch, that is, the area directly under the eyebrows. This light highlight is performed with white paint or paint lighter than the skin. The pigment, diluted with a mix or distilled water, should be applied very easily and always in layers. It is better to do this in several procedures.

If we talk about an integrated approach to the issue of rejuvenation of the eyebrow zone, then we can advise clients on such a cosmetic procedure as botulinum toxin injections, which can smooth out glabellar wrinkles.

Make eyes visually younger

Age-related changes in the periorbital region are characterized by drooping of the upper eyelid (sometimes up to the ciliary edge), the formation of a network of wrinkles around the eyes (“crow's feet”), and a change in the color of the eye sclera. There is a need to visually enlarge the eyes, giving them greater expressiveness .

But if usually for this it is enough to draw a line along the edge of the upper eyelid, then in the presence of wrinkles and ptosis, any lines must be handled very carefully. The fact is that, being incorrectly drawn, the arrow can emphasize the wrinkle, becoming its continuation. Therefore, preference should be given to soft shading, which create the effect of shadows. The feathered wing can be made wider to achieve the desired almond shape. The shade of the shadows should be selected based on the color of the iris. It is necessary to avoid colors that are opposite in the spectral range, since they only emphasize age-related imperfections.

A good rejuvenating effect is given by brightened inner corners of the eyes. Technically, this work is done in the same way as applying a light highlight under the eyebrows. You can paint white on the mucous membrane of the lower eyelid, which becomes reddish with age. This will make your eyes look much younger.

It is no secret that the face looks tired if there are so-called bruises under the eyes. They can be lightened up a bit. The same technique is used to slightly "push" deep-set eyes forward. To achieve the best effect, 3-4 procedures are usually required, about which the client should be warned.

If clients come with severe ptosis of the upper eyelid, then you need to honestly tell them that the possibilities of permanent makeup are not unlimited. You can slightly correct the defect, but it is unlikely that it will be possible to completely remove the visually pronounced ptosis. Such clients are shown first plastic surgery, and then only permanent makeup.

If you first draw arrows or shading, and then perform blepharoplasty, then after the operation the drawn lines can be greatly displaced or deformed. And permanent makeup will have to be completely redone. And sometimes you have to resort to partial or complete removal of the previously applied PM.

Permanent makeup is often used to correct scars that occur as complications after blepharoplasty, and sometimes to correct the shape of the eyes. Another negative consequence of this plastic surgery is the eversion of the lower eyelid (ectropion). To visually remove the eversion, the mucosa is stained with dark pigment and the arrow is drawn slightly up. Usually clients are very satisfied with the result.

Complications after blepharoplasty on the upper eyelid in the form of a scar are camouflaged in two ways. Firstly, you can paint over the scar to match the color of the surrounding tissues. Secondly, you can use decorative tones to create a shadow effect. Do not just forget that the shadows should be natural tones, match the color of the iris and look like a light coating, and not like a stain. For example, if the client has brown eyes, then bluish and greenish shadows will do. But we must remember that the green color emphasizes the redness that appears with age on the mucous membrane of the eyes. There is a way out: so that greenish shadows do not accentuate the reddish mucous membrane, you need to paint over the ciliary zone of the upper eyelid with black. In the presence of yellow sclera, blue-violet shadows should be avoided.

But no matter what color the master and client choose, you must first sketch with the appropriate decorative cosmetics and make sure that the tone fits and corrects imperfections, and does not emphasize them.

If the lower eyelid is stained in order to remove the ectropion, and the upper one - to level the redness of the mucous membranes, then these two black lines bordering the eye will visually reduce the eye. To avoid this, the top line is made as thin as possible.

Clients who wear glasses require special attention. The fact is that lenses can both enlarge and reduce the eyes. Therefore, the master should select the shape of the eye, focusing on how the eyes look with and without glasses. I will give just one example. Client A., 48 years old. The eyes are slightly convex. The client wears glasses for myopia. It was impossible to give the eyes an almond shape with the help of an arrow, since this would make them appear even more protruding. But it was not possible to avoid the line at all, because due to wearing glasses, the eyes seemed smaller than they really are. A compromise option was chosen with coloring of the ciliary zone and the withdrawal of a shaded arrow in the direction of the temple. The arrow did not rise above the pupil, but went straight. The lower eyelid was not touched at all, so as not to visually round the eyes.

With farsightedness, the eyes in glasses, on the contrary, increase, so even the most modest line can increase them excessively (by the way, farsightedness is often found in people over 40 years old).

If the client wears lenses, then it is necessary to take into account their color and choose the shade of permanent makeup for it.

A lasting and obvious rejuvenating effect can be achieved through the joint work of a permanent makeup master and a dermatocosmetologist. Therefore, it is worth advising the client such procedures as biorevitalization of the periorbital zone and injections of botulinum toxin.

We will talk about the cheekbones and other areas of the face in the continuation of the material.