Correction of problematic eyebrow shapes: expert advice

What is eyebrow correction? This is giving the eyebrows a more regular and beautiful shape using tweezers, wax or thread. Not only eyebrow artists, but also makeup artists are faced with the need to correct eyebrows if, when performing makeup, there is a need to change the shape to a more harmonious and natural one. The worst dream for any master is problematic eyebrow shapes, which are almost impossible to correct in one go. Together with Yulia Mateshko we figure out how to correct over-plucked and round eyebrows, triangle eyebrows, fallen and ragged shapes.

Yulia Mateshko , top eyebrow artist, permanent artist, teacher

How to properly build an eyebrow

When choosing the ideal eyebrow shape, I start from their natural shape and the girl’s facial features: the shape of the forehead, the location of the eyes, nose, hairline. It is important to pay attention to the symmetry of the face. If it is asymmetrical, you should not make two identical eyebrows - this will only aggravate the situation.

After we have chosen the shape of the eyebrows, we will try to line it up correctly. The eyebrow consists of three points. The first point is the beginning of the eyebrow. To find it, you need to place a pencil vertically on the piercing site on your nose and the inner corner of your eye. The intersection point is the beginning of the eyebrow. Due to current trends, this point may be 3-4 mm closer to the bridge of the nose.

The second point is the break (apex). For wide-set eyes, apply a pencil to the wing of the nose and draw a line through the pupil; with narrow set - through the iris. And the last point where the eyebrow ends: draw a line through the extreme point of the nose wing and the outer corner of the eye. The tip of the eyebrow tail should be at the intersection point.

We remove everything that goes beyond the mold with tweezers. Using the gel, we style the hairs and fill the voids.

Correction of over-plucked eyebrows

A fairly common problem that eyebrow stylists face is over-plucked eyebrows. Many girls make corrections at home, using photos from the Internet as an example. Or their mothers help them, and they, as a rule, are lovers of thread eyebrows, because during their youth it was fashionable. After such a correction, girls come to a specialist with plucked eyebrows and a cry for help.

If a client comes to me with such a problem, the first thing I do is try to convey that thin and over-plucked eyebrows have long been out of fashion. There is a chance to get them in order, but you need to be patient. I warn you that it takes about 3-6 months to grow eyebrows. While the eyebrows are growing, beauty products, of which there are a huge variety on the market now, will help give them the desired shape and hide mistakes: waterproof eyebrow pomades, powder pencils , liners and shadows. You can tint your eyebrows with paint, but immediately warn the client that in place of voids, the paint will wash off faster, so you will still have to resort to decorative cosmetics.

I select an individual shape for the client and show her how to draw it correctly, where it should be lighter and where it should be darker, where the eyebrows begin and where they end, where they need to grow hairs and temporarily tint the voids so that there is no temptation to pluck them again.

In order for regrowth to occur as quickly as possible, I recommend that girls speed up the process: at night, use a brush to massage with oil (usma, burdock, castor, almond). You can also find ready-made products on the market that contain oils.

Correction of triangle eyebrows

When working with such eyebrows, you need to try to grow the hairs at the beginning of the eyebrows and comb them upward with gel. It is also important to move the apex point towards the temples and try to smooth out the eyebrow, removing sharp corners.

Correction of round eyebrows

A round eyebrow shape does not suit anyone and, as a rule, is found in older women. A face with such eyebrows seems pitiful, sad and slightly surprised. Round eyebrows also make the face visually wider and are absolutely not suitable for girls with round eyes. In this case, it is advisable to raise the ends of the eyebrows and place the peak higher.

Correction of ragged eyebrows

A characteristic feature of tattered eyebrows is a plucked ponytail or its complete absence. If the client is ready to wait and strictly follow your recommendations, let her grow her eyebrows. If not, I suggest doing permanent eyebrow makeup - this solves the problem for 1-1.5 years.

Correction of fallen eyebrows

A sagging eyebrow is a common problem among adult women, as our muscles weaken and droop over the years. In this case, the main thing is to try to raise the end of the eyebrow to the axis or a little higher. Then the look will become more open and not so sad.