Eyebrow shapes: how to choose the right one?

Elena Yudina, makeup artist-stylist, international class master, world champion in makeup, certified judge of Ukraine and international competitions, founder of the author's school of makeup and style VISART academy (Dnepr, Kyiv), trainer of all-Ukrainian and international competitions in makeup and body art

A good eyebrow shape “opens” the eyes and hides signs of fatigue, making you look youthful. Correctly designed eyebrows can not only “raise” deep-set eyes and enlarge small ones, but even reduce the size of the nose. Thanks to eyebrows, you can also correct the oval of your face. Eyebrows that are optimal for a certain type of face give a woman a more well-groomed, fresh and beautiful look.

How to choose the right eyebrow shape? There are geometric constructions that will help coordinate three main characteristics: the beginning of the eyebrow, the bend (the highest point), and the end of the eyebrow. These constructions are basic, and they do not take into account either the shape of the face or physiological characteristics, so an experienced specialist will adapt them to the characteristics of each face.

So, a line drawn from the wing of the nose through the inner corner of the eye will show the starting point of the eyebrow. Next, we determine the curve of the eyebrow - from the center of the chin we draw a line through the outer edge of the iris (look straight ahead) - this will be the upper part of the curve of the eyebrow. You can determine the bend line in the second way: the line starts from the wing of the nose and passes through the pupil of the eye. Now let's draw a line from the wing of the nose through the outer edge of the eye to the temple - this line characterizes the end of the eyebrow.

Eyebrow shapes

Straight eyebrows (Fig. A). We form a bend using linear directions (line 1, line 2).

Short eyebrows (Fig. B). Very small linear constructions (line 1), aimed at leaving maximum naturalness, emphasis on lengthening (line 2).

Severely broken eyebrows (Fig. B). We remove hairs from above at the break point (line 1) and from below at the inner and outer ends of the eyebrows (lines 2,3). This way the eyebrows straighten.

Eyebrows “take off” (Fig. D). We remove the hairs from below at the inner edge of the eyebrow to increase the distance between the eye and the eyebrow (line 1), form a bend and lengthen the eyebrow.

Eyebrows with lowered corners (Fig. D). We shorten the eyebrow by raising the eyebrow line (line 1), lowering the beginning of the eyebrow (line 2). If necessary, draw on the beginning of the eyebrow from below.

Round eyebrows (Fig. E). We shorten the outer edge of the eyebrow, while raising its tip (line 1), form a bend from the bottom (line 2). Select the bend point (point A) and align the roundness of the eyebrow using line 3.

The bend of the eyebrow is shifted towards the bridge of the nose (Fig. G). We select the correct bending point along the upper line (point A) and the lower line of the eyebrow (point A') according to the proportions, and move it closer to the bridge of the nose. Create a shape (line 1, 2).

The arch of the eyebrow is shifted towards the temple (Fig. H). Select the correct bend point along the upper line (point A) and the lower line of the eyebrow (point A'). According to the proportions, we move it closer to the temple. Create a shape (line 1, 2). When changing the arch of your eyebrows, remember that they will become a little thinner. Don't forget to warn the client about this.

How to choose eyebrow shape according to your face type

Eyebrows of different shapes are suitable for an oval face : both straight and with a soft bend.

If your face is too long , be careful with high arched eyebrows, as they can lengthen it even more. Eyebrows should be straighter and longer.

If your face is round , round or very thin eyebrows are absolutely not suitable. With this face shape, you should choose a shape with a break that is quite high (but not too sharp!). But the tip of the eyebrow should be short.

For a square face, arched, highly raised eyebrows are suitable. Their tips should be made elongated. If you choose a shape with a break, it needs to be softened. I do not recommend making eyebrows short and thin, as the face will visually appear “heavier”.

The ideal line for a triangular face should have a smooth curve. Don't make your eyebrows short or long, stay at a medium length. Avoid overly straight or rounded eyebrows.

To avoid lengthening a rectangular face , choose straight eyebrows of medium length. No arcs or sharp breaks! If the upper part of the face is narrower than the lower part, then you need to shorten the eyebrows from the bridge of the nose. With wide cheekbones and a narrow lower part of the face, eyebrows should be shortened from the side of the temples.

How to choose the right eyebrow shape

A correctly chosen eyebrow shape can hide many imperfections and transform a woman.

Rounded eyebrows soften facial features, making it more harmonious. This eyebrow shape frees up space above the upper eyelid, and thus makes it possible to experiment with makeup.

Straight ones are ideal for girls with a narrow, elongated face. These eyebrows give the face a natural and innocent expression. But with small eyes such eyebrows are undesirable.

Broken ones are good when you need to divert attention from the lower part of the face (wide chin, large nose, large lips). Such eyebrows visually narrow the face and hide age.

Arched ones make the face very feminine and allow you to “open” your eyes.

A rather complex curved eyebrow shape will suit the owner of a square face. But even on a classic oval face, such lines look impressive. Eyebrows are also preferred by extraordinary, self-confident individuals.

Remember, very thick and wide eyebrows make the face stern and even stern, for young girls - independent and daring. Very long eyebrows that fall over the eyelids at the outer corners of the eyes give the face a sad expression and age, so shortened eyebrows are more suitable for adult women.

The article was first published in MAKEUP&YOU Professional magazine.