A word from the makeup artist: how to create up-to-date and in-demand makeup?

Evgeniya Elisova is a professional Makeup Artist & Stylist with extensive experience working, including with many Ukrainian stars, and also a member of the jury of our new project - Pro Beauty Battle: Makeup . We invite you to take part in the new format of the competition to be inspired to conquer new heights, try your hand, demonstrate your creativity and skill level, and also win cool prizes from partners!

In this material we are talking about creating current, modern makeup that emphasizes the natural beauty of girls and at the same time helps to hide imperfections. How to choose shades and textures of cosmetics, why work with contrast in appearance and how to correctly emphasize volumes - our permanent expert answers all these questions.

Evgenia Elisova , professional Makeup Artist & Stylist, works with such stars as Jamala, Laura Marti, Yasya Minochkina, Yulia Magdych, Mira, Maria Yastremskaya

There are standard schemes for performing makeup, that is, a sequence that helps a specialist do the job cleanly and technically correctly. This sequence includes an analysis of the client’s appearance, after which the color scheme, makeup style and the products themselves are selected. And we start by determining the color scheme.

Determining the color scheme

There are cold and warm types of appearance. Many makeup artists use the seasons system and distinguish summer, spring, autumn and winter types of appearance, but it does not always work. This is because most often in our work we meet girls of mixed appearance, combining both cold and warm shades. That's the problem, you say! But everything is much simpler than it seems.

Let me give you an example: there is pure red, pure black and pure yellow, and there are shades of these colors. It's the same with appearance. If you have a mildly warm type of appearance, you will use dark chocolate eyeliner instead of black. But that is not all.

Contrast of appearance

After determining the type of appearance, we look at its contrast - this is the combination of skin tone, hair color, eyebrows and iris of the eyes. How clearly do they stand out from each other? Determining the contrast will help you decide what shade and density of color you will work on your face.

How to understand? Take a black and white photo of the model and see how the facial features, hair, eyebrows, eyes, lip color and skin tone look in the image. You will immediately see where you need to add brightness and clarity, and what, on the contrary, should not be touched at all, or just get by with a light accent. Example: dark hair, thick eyebrows, fair skin, heart-shaped face, small, flat-lidded eyes and very full lips. Introduced? What stands out brightly does not require increased highlighting on the face. And what gets lost in the background or looks flat requires your attention.

Working with volumes

And we come to my favorite part of reading a face - these are volumes, lines and depressions.

So, the more powerful the line of the lips, eyebrows and eye shape, the closer and clearer they are perceived, that is, they protrude forward, which means they look bright. That is, a person with prominent and clearly defined cheekbones does not need bright contouring and dense color in this area. It is enough to slightly shade this area with color and shade it well. But if there is no clear line of the cheekbones and the cheeks look flat, on the contrary, we should add relief to this area.

Product textures

The next important point is the texture of the products you will use to apply makeup. Let me give you an example with fabrics in clothing. Most likely, you have noticed that some people suit thick materials, some girls suit sequins, some girls suit velvet, and others wear fabrics with a pronounced shine. This rule also works with textures in makeup.

For example, when choosing a foundation, remember that thin skin will not suit a velvety or completely matte finish, since by its nature it gives a feeling of transparency and softness. The foundation should not violate this perception, but, on the contrary, imitate natural data in this case.

What to do with oily skin, because it is intensely shiny and may have colored spots or pimples? In this case, we adhere to the rule - we correct what stands out on the skin and attracts a lot of attention. Thick skin is not afraid of a pigmented and dense coating if you layer the product correctly one by one, and do not “putty” your face in one layer. On oily skin, cosmetics with rich color and dense texture will look better than translucent ones with a soft shine. This rule applies to everything - eye shadow, lipstick, blush.

The texture of the cosmetics further enhances facial features. We can make an emphasis both with color and its saturation, clarity and thickness of the line, and with the texture of beauty products. For example, how to add relief to prominent cheekbones without using color? Take a reflective or dewy texture and apply it to the highest part of your cheekbone - that's texture in action! This way we can balance facial features just by choosing the right texture.

Since there are an infinite number of combinations of appearance types and facial features, I have given only a few prominent examples. I would like to draw your attention to the combination of factors described above. An integrated approach will help you better understand this or that approach to different makeup techniques and teach you to see the subtleties when applying and choosing cosmetics.

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