New generation of trichloroacetic acid: biorevitalizant peelings

Trichloroacetic acid is a keratolytic peeling with a cauterizing and non-selective effect - the destruction of all protein molecules that get in the way.

The penetration of acid into the skin depends on several factors:

• TCA concentration;
• skin preparation;
• anatomical zone.

When applied to the skin, denaturation of proteins occurs with the formation of a white coating - the frost effect, and the degree of damage is determined by its color. Such peeling requires skill, precise control of depth, adherence to the post-peel protocol, restrictions on the part of the patient in the post-procedure period, and let’s not forget about the significant pain of the procedure. And yet, despite following all protocols, unwanted reactions may occur. The specialist is always faced with the question of how to maintain the result and avoid side effects. Currently, the principles of physiological cosmetology, based on the activation of the regenerative and protective forces of the body through natural biological mechanisms, are becoming especially popular.

New trends

Several years ago, the cosmetic market was replenished with biorevitalizant peels without damaging the epidermis, but with powerful stimulation of the dermis based on modified TCA. Just this peeling option fully meets the needs of the modern client/patient - without pain, discomfort, lack of rehabilitation, “lunch break” peeling.

In the composition of such preparations, trichloroacetic acid in a concentration of up to 35% and in conventional peeling causes damage to cells up to the reticular dermis, painful sensations and a recovery period of 10 to 20 days. However, new peeling formulas penetrate the stratum corneum and epidermis without damaging it.

Cosmetologists get lost in the abundance of modified peels, so let's figure it out.

What are the differences?

Modification of trichloroacetic acid occurs in the following directions:

• changing the chemical formula of the acid itself

Trichloroacetic acid (СCl3СООН) is a fully halogenated (methyl group) analogue of acetic acid. Obtained by synthesis by the reaction of chlorine with acetic acid. The presence of a halogen in the TCA molecule affects the mobility of the carboxyl group proton, causing easier abstraction of the hydrogen ion in solution. Since all the hydrogen atoms of the methyl group in the trichloroacetic acid molecule are replaced by chlorine, TCA is a very strong acid.

One way to make the acid less aggressive is to use monochloroacetic acid (MCA). The fewer chlorine atoms, the less aggressive the acid.

Or use a salt of trichloroacetic acid - ammonium trichloroacetate, a salt chemically formed by a strong acid and a weak base. In an aqueous environment, the active substance trichloroacetate anion is formed, which managed to preserve the beneficial properties of trichloroacetic acid and minimize its side effects in the form of severe burning, burns and deep trauma.

• introduction of special substances to create complexes

Acid stabilization with urea peroxide. As part of such a complex, TCA is not active and does not destroy proteins. The complex is relatively stable, and when it breaks down, TCA, urea and peroxide are released, which quickly decomposes to water and oxygen.

Stabilization of the acid with peroxide (hydrogen peroxide) - a complex is also formed, which is even more stable than with urea peroxide, which makes the use of peeling even safer.

And:

• the presence of transport complexes in the formula ensures the passage of protons through the epidermis without damaging it;
• ozonides are compounds of ozone and olive oil, so-called ozone capsules in oil, which, due to their extremely low acidity, neutralize TCA without causing oxidation and coagulation of proteins.

Advantages

• remodeling of the dermis without trauma
• no recovery period
• slight or no peeling
• no pain
• aesthetic effect after the first procedure
• combination with other cosmetology methods

Mechanism of action

The complex easily passes through the stratum corneum, epidermis and reaches the dermis, while most of the complexes disintegrate in the dermal layer. TCA denatures protein structures, including “old” fibers. Damaged fibers are recognized by matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), which excise defective proteins from the scaffold and then cut them into free amino acids and small fragments of 2-6 amino acids called matrikins. Amino acids become building materials for new proteins. Matrikines, connecting with receptors on the surface of fibroblasts, signal the destruction of the framework. In response, fibroblasts synthesize new fibers of structural proteins, which are built in to replace the destroyed ones. Oxygen intensifies cellular respiration and synthetic activity of fibroblasts. A small part of TCA, which was released earlier in the epidermis, is enough to stimulate the division and migration of keratinocytes of the basal layer. It is very important that acid penetration occurs evenly over the entire treated surface. The biorevitalizant peeling formula may also contain additional assets - peptides, whitening ingredients, fruit acids, amino acids, with each component playing its own special role.

The number of biorevitalization peelings is rapidly expanding, offering more and more new options. I would like to note that in terms of its indications and clinical effects, the procedure is closer to remodeling than to peeling. The target is the dermal layer, to a lesser extent the epidermis.