Homosalate like a stumbling block

After a 25-year ban, the British government has allowed animal testing of cosmetic ingredients. The developers believe that it will be necessary to test the homosalate sunscreen ingredient, often used in concealers and foundations.

A UK High Court ruling has changed animal testing policy for cosmetics to comply with EU regulations, BBC News reports.

More than 80 brands have already said they are alarmed by the government's new stance. Animal rights activists from Cruelty Free International (CFI) filed a lawsuit, but the court said the government was acting legally. A British Home Office spokesman told the BBC: «We are pleased that the High Court agreed with the government's position in this case. The government is committed to the protection of animals in science».

Animal testing of cosmetics or ingredients has been completely banned in the UK since 1998. They were only allowed if the benefit derived from the research outweighed any suffering to the animals, such as for drug development. But in 2020, The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA), the European Union agency that administers the European Union's regulation on registration, evaluation and authorization of chemicals, ruled that companies need to test certain ingredients used in cosmetics on animals, to make sure they are safe for the workers who make those ingredients.

The case revealed that since 2019, the government has been issuing licenses for animal testing of cosmetic ingredients under EU rules, which have persisted in Britain despite its 2020 exit from the EU. This may involve testing chemicals commonly found in foundations and concealers by having rats inhale or ingest them. How many such licenses were issued and to whom is unknown. But manufacturers who want to test the safety of cosmetics for consumers still cannot conduct animal testing - this should be done by other methods.

Cruelty Free International (CFI), which filed the case, argued that it was illegal and violated a 1998 ban on animal testing of cosmetics and ingredients. The court ruled in favor of the government, saying the policy change was still in line with existing laws, though it was «regrettable» that the public had not been informed.

The government's change in stance has been heavily criticized by major beauty and beauty brands including Unilever, the Body Shop and Boots. Most major brands have long campaigned to end animal testing.

CFI said it was «outrageous» that the government had effectively lifted the ban and vowed to "strongly oppose" the changes.

Ingredients that can be tested on animals include homosalate, a common sunscreen ingredient already used in many foundations and skincare products. At low doses, it is safe, but at higher concentrations, the evidence for its effect on the human immune system is inconclusive.

Cruelty Free International believes that «... this case clearly shows that [the government] gave priority to the interests of contract testing companies over the interests of animals and the desires of the vast majority of Britons, who are strongly opposed to testing cosmetics». CFI said it would appeal the court's decision and ask the government to reinstate the UK's total ban.

A new chemicals strategy is expected to be published this year, outlining the government's position on the use and testing of chemicals in the UK, which may include further advice to cosmetics companies.