Changes to cosmetic legislation in the EU

A number of cosmetic ingredients will be banned or restricted in use

2023-07-28

On June 8, 2023, the European Commission informed the World Trade Organization of a draft amendment to Directive No. 1223/2009 regulating the European cosmetics market. It is this Directive that is the basis for regulating the cosmetics market in Ukraine, so innovations are also relevant for our market.

Yulia Gagarina, chemist, technologist-developer of cosmetics

Ban

A number of components fell under it.

UVB-filter. By the end of 2025, products with a UVB-filter 4-METHYLBENZYLIDENE CAMPHOR will be completely withdrawn from the European market, in the US market it is referred to as ENZACAMENE.

Reason: proven destructive effect on the endocrine system. The genotoxicity of this component is still under investigation.

It is believed that the current limit of 4% is not safe enough.

There are many products on the market today with this filter, so many companies will be affected by the changes.

BENZOPHENONE. Here you need to keep in mind that this is an aromatic component, and not a UV filter. It is added to the composition as an additive masking unpleasant odors. The ban is due to the fact that, according to the totality of studies, he fell into the Carc. 1B: «Carcinogenic potential in humans, classification based primarily on animal data».

PENTASODIUM PENTETATE and PENTETIC ACID. These are chelators to remove calcium and magnesium cations and to maintain foaming. Therefore, it is most often found in cleaning products (soaps, cleansers, gels) and metal-sensitive serums and creams (with vitamin C and retinol). The prohibition is associated with evidence-based effects on the reproductive system. Repr. 1B: «may affect fertility, may harm the unborn child».

*Full version of the access article in Ukrainian and Russian