Dry skin is a problem, but not a death sentence

Olga Andrienko, general practitioner, family medicine, cosmetologist-esthetician, national methodologist of the company “Renew Ukraine”

“I have dry skin” is a phrase that a practicing cosmetologist hears every day. It would seem that what could be simpler than prescribing a cream labeled “moisturizing” and solving this problem? Why is it that when using such products there is often no improvement in the condition, but the skin remains tight and flaky?

Causes of dry skin

Dry skin is not a disease, but a complex of symptoms, such as a feeling of tightness, flaking, microcracks, decreased turgor, plasticity and wrinkles, which arise due to a decrease in moisture content in the stratum corneum of the epidermis. Essentially, the term “dry skin” means “dry stratum corneum.”

Causes of dry stratum corneum can be:

– general diseases – hormonal imbalance (for example, the common problem of hypothyroidism is often accompanied by dry skin), gastrointestinal disorders, diabetes, etc.;

– external aggressive influences on the skin – dry air, wind, frost, UV rays, dust, mechanical friction from clothes and masks;

– unbalanced diet – lack of Omega acids and predominance of trans fats and “fast” carbohydrates;

– problems of the skin itself, namely a violation of the moisture-retaining structures of the epidermis.

The moisture-retaining structures of the epidermis include keratin protein, natural moisturizing factor (NMF - Natural Moisturizing Factor), sebum and a properly formed lipid barrier.

Solution methods

Based on the cause of dry skin, moisturizing tactics will be appropriate. It is advisable to start with correcting the main cause - treating the underlying disease, reducing environmental aggression and maximizing skin protection from external factors, a balanced diet including fish, vegetable oils and proper drinking regimen.

Topical products for eliminating dry skin can be divided into four groups:

1. Occlusive are products that create a film on the surface of the epidermis and prevent its own moisture from evaporating. By the way, the role of natural occlusion is played by your own sebum. Such products quickly increase the level of moisture in the stratum corneum, but are used as an ambulance, temporarily, because constant occlusion will lead to overhydration of the epidermis and its swelling, disrupt renewal and subsequently aggravate the situation. It is desirable that the occlusive components be gas-permeable and introduced in a strictly designated percentage. Sebum “simulators” include solid vegetable oils (for example, shea butter), waxes, petroleum jelly and mineral oil, lanolin, squalene and squalane. An important moisture-retaining agent is also glycerin, which exhibits moisturizing properties when introduced into the product no more than a few percent.
   
2. Hygroscopic substances that can retain moisture. This includes various polysaccharides and substances of protein origin, in particular hyaluronic acid and collagen. Proteins act as a “wet” compress and provide instant lifting. It must be remembered that the use of hyaluronic acid requires certain rules: applying this component in a dry room or in frosty air will not only not improve the situation, but can significantly worsen it. It should be remembered that the stratum corneum of the epidermis is “poor” in water and is very easy to dry out. Hyaluronic acid, capable of attracting and holding water molecules, will quickly evaporate moisture from the skin into the environment in dry air.
   
3. NMF components – lactic acid, amino acids, urea. The use of such elements is often called “deep hydration.” Having a small molecule size, NMF components can truly penetrate the epidermal barrier and work as if “from the inside.”
   
4. Restoring the lipid barrier - natural oils - sources of polyunsaturated fatty acids (evening primrose, borage, sunflower seeds and black currant), physiological lipids (ceramides, cholesterol) and liposomes.

To plan tactically correct moisturizing, you should remember that sebum imitators and “moisture catchers” moisturize the skin quickly, but not long-term, rather symptomatically, and their use is justified after skin damage at the initial stage. Then it is very important to connect physiological lipids and emollients to retain its own moisture in the skin. At the same time, it is necessary to use antioxidants to prevent free radicals from destroying cell membranes, and, naturally, to protect the skin from environmental aggression, primarily from UV rays.

Conclusion

By combining skin care with lifestyle changes (cool, moist air, walks, a humidifier and maximum avoidance of air conditioners and heaters, nutrition with Omega acids and enough water), you can forget about dry skin forever, remembering that dry skin – a problem, but not a death sentence!