Biological components in cosmetics for skin regeneration

Natalya YUNAK, applicant of the Central Research Laboratory and Laboratory of Industrial Toxicology of LNMU named after. D. Galitsky, member of UHRS, head of the Eastern European department for the organization of trichological offices of Gestil International, member of Tricologia Sitri (Ukraine)

Let's figure out what active natural substances will help the skin recover after the procedure.

Many cosmetic products are developed taking into account knowledge about the aging processes of the skin that underlie age-related changes. Prevention of age-related changes includes:

• protecting the skin from damaging factors;
• restoration and strengthening of the barrier properties of the stratum corneum;
• replenishing the deficiency of certain substances;
• stimulation of blood circulation;
• stimulation of cellular renewal of the epidermis;
• stimulation of renewal of the intercellular matrix of the dermis.

One of the most common methods of combating signs of skin aging in cosmetology and aesthetic medicine are chemical peels, which are currently included in most facial skin care programs. The result of chemical peeling is the stimulation of regeneration processes, considered as a “skin rejuvenation effect.” In the process of physiological cleansing of the skin from damaged tissues, neutrophils and macrophages migrate, fibroblasts synthesizing collagen are activated, and with the participation of keratinocytes, the epidermis is restored, resulting in the restoration of the protective properties of the skin.

In skin regeneration after chemical peels, the most important is the functional state of the basal layer of the epidermis, the cells of which have mitotic activity due to a large number of RNA- and DNA-containing structures.

Hydration

Facial care after chemical peeling involves the use of products that help the damaged surface of the dermis to recover. An important circumstance is its hydration and speedy healing.

During post-peeling care, it is necessary to ensure skin hydration, since active hydration of the epidermis ensures normal epithelization and reduces the risk of scarring.

Urea (Urea)

Moisturizes the skin, retains water from the air or cream, as a humidifier softens the stratum corneum, makes it elastic, and reduces dryness. The keratolytic loosens the top layer and accelerates the exfoliation of dead cells from the surface of the skin. Soothes the skin - relieves itching, has a local analgesic effect, reduces irritation from the effects of surfactants, and promotes the penetration of other active substances into the skin.

Trehalose

A disaccharide consisting of two glucose residues. Trehalose has the unique ability to protect and maintain the vital activity of cells under adverse environmental influences, compensates for the lack of skin moisture, preserving its cellular structure and protecting it from damage, and suppresses the formation of volatile aldehydes associated with aging.

Aloe Barbados (Aloe Barbadensis)

Contains a huge amount of biologically active substances, of which the most important for the skin are carotene, vitamins C and E, amino acids, sterols, enzymes, fatty acids that protect the skin from the damaging effects of free radicals and premature aging, a complex of polysaccharides with high moisture-retaining and immunostimulating ability, salicylic acid, which has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects. Aloe polysaccharides are distributed over the surface of the skin, creating a moisturizing film, stimulating Langerhans cells and protecting against UV radiation.

Sodium Hyaluronate

In terms of its activity, it is a complete analogue of hyaluronic acid, promotes tissue regeneration, makes the skin softer and smoother. Has the ability to stimulate cell migration and proliferation. Hyaluronic acid is a structural component of the human intercellular matrix, stably retains a significant amount of water in the skin, creates a thin film that prevents moisture loss without disturbing gas exchange, and restores the water balance in the skin. Hyaluronic acid stabilizes collagen fibers, increases their elasticity, has a positive effect on the formation and regeneration of the structure of the dermis, and maintains an optimal level of moisture.

Allantoin

A substance from comfrey root containing mucopolysaccharides, glucose, fructose, tannins, carotenes, glycosides. Helps in the formation of healthy tissue, softens the stratum corneum, promoting the separation of dead cells, and stimulates tissue regeneration, has a keratolytic effect, promoting cellular regeneration of the skin, rapid healing, relieving irritations, protects sensitive skin from the action of aggressive components of cosmetics, has an anti-inflammatory effect, stimulates growth new cells.

Spirulina Platensis Extract

It has an antioxidant, immunomodulatory, detoxifying effect. The high content of proteins and polysaccharides helps nourish and moisturize the skin and accelerate wound healing. Spirulina contains up to 70% high-quality protein, represented by all essential amino acids, a complex of vitamins, a large number of macro- and microelements in a bioavailable organic form, functional substances - phycocyanin (prevents and slows down the development of malignant tumors), polysaccharides, β-glucan, sulfolipids, polyunsaturated fatty acids acids.

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Contains proteins, sugars, polysaccharides, mannitol, alginic acid, algin, organic iodine compounds, mineral salts, vitamins C, A, D, E, group B, microelements. Algae tone the skin, restore cell membranes, accelerate intracellular metabolism, stimulate collagen production, have a rejuvenating and tightening effect, and promote deep penetration and retention of moisture in the skin. They have antibacterial activity, promote healing, protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV rays, and have a vasoconstrictor effect.

Chlorella (Chlorella vulgaris)

A genus of green seaweed. Contains polysaccharides, amino acids, vitamins A, B, lipids, mineral salts, iodine, proteins. It has an unsurpassed nourishing, vitaminizing, healing effect on the skin, promotes the synthesis of collagen and elastin.

Intensive skin hydration allows to minimize the patient’s unpleasant subjective sensations, in particular skin tightness after chemical peeling.

Restoring the epidermal barrier

To reduce discomfort and reduce the risk of complications, post-peeling care should ensure the restoration of the epidermal barrier, reduce skin sensitivity due to environmental influences, and reduce the manifestations of inflammation and premature aging.

Ceramide complex (Ceramide-1, Ceramide-3, Ceramide-6–II)

These substances are the main component of the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum (40%). Ceramides dissolve in the stratum corneum and fill the intercellular space, providing a barrier function that helps combat daily aggressive environmental influences, temperature differences, pollution, solar radiation and physico-chemical influences. Ceramides restore the stratum corneum, help regulate transepidermal water loss, maintain the integrity of the stratum corneum and protect the skin, help in the treatment of photoaging, moisturize the skin (effectiveness confirmed by clinical studies), activate the growth of fibroblasts, and provide a whitening effect.

Phytosphingosine

An active substance that is a component of some epidermal lipids - ceramides. It has antiseptic and anti-inflammatory effects, activity against lipophilic yeast-like fungi of the genus Malassezia, and restores the hydrolipid film on the surface of the skin. Promotes cell renewal, improves skin elasticity, stimulates the synthesis of its own epidermal lipids.

Restoring the epidermal barrier can reduce transepithelial moisture loss and excessive skin sensitivity caused by damage to the epidermis, accelerate healing and improve repair. To regenerate the skin and form a new lipid barrier, squalane, lecithin, vitamin A, niacinamide (vitamin B3), plant triglycerides, phytosterols (phytosterols) are used in the formulation, both on their own and in the composition of oils such as shea or avocado, ceramides- I, -III and -VI, phospholipids or phosphatidylcholine, vitamin F (unsaturated fatty acid complex) or vegetable oils high in linoleic, α- and γ-linolenic acids, namely rose moschetta, borage, flax, evening primrose, sunflower seeds pumpkin and wheat germ, black currant, soy and grape seeds.

Antioxidants

Also, the post-peeling care program must include antioxidants to reduce the severity of the inflammatory reaction and the risk of developing hyperpigmentation.

Tocopherol, vitamin E (Tocopherol)

Slows down the aging process, participates in the formation of collagen and elastin fibers, relieves inflammation, stimulates cellular respiration, strengthens skin cell membranes, protects skin from exposure to UV rays, and has antioxidant properties.

Phytoestrogens glycine soy (Fytoestrogeny Glycine Soja)

Composed of amino acids, peptides and proteins, they support cellular functions. Free amino acids and small peptides are able to retain moisture in the stratum corneum of the skin. Hydrolyzed protein fragments, which freely penetrate the surface of the skin, help increase the water content in the outer layers of the skin and minimize wrinkles. Soy glycine moisturizes the skin, has antistatic and tonic properties.

Cassia Alata Leaf Extract

Contains phytonutrients that protect the skin from harmful environmental factors and helps maintain skin radiance and tone. Prevents damage to skin DNA by UV radiation and has a positive effect on lipid and water-salt metabolism of the skin.

Lecithin

A phospholipid from which cell membranes are largely formed. Lecithin affects the restoration of skin barrier functions, nourishes cells, and rids them of toxins. With the help of lecithin, the body processes the formation of new cells and restores damaged ones, which significantly improves the condition of inflamed, sick, tired skin. Helps in the fight against psoriasis, eczema, neurodermatitis. Contains vitamins A and E, the main vehicle for delivering nutrients, vitamins and drugs to cells. Is a powerful antioxidant.

Antiseptics

An important part of skin care should be the prevention of bacterial infection to prevent unwanted skin infections.

Rosemary oil (Rosmarinus Officinalis Oil)

It has a strong antiseptic and tonic effect, significantly improves metabolic processes. Improves cell regeneration processes and, having an antifungal effect, normalizes the activity of the sebaceous glands, slowing down and reducing the process of sebum production. Contains terpenes and terpenoids, steroids, antioxidants, diterpene phenols.

Great Burdock (Arctium Majus)

Contains essential and fatty oils, proteins, glycosides, mineral salts of potassium, calcium, magnesium, organic acids (malic, citric), inulin, vitamins, ascorbic acid. It has antiallergic, antimicrobial, antiseptic and disinfectant effects, improves skin condition, tightens pores, and eliminates skin itching. Burdock root extract has a tonic, bactericidal, antiallergic effect.

Salvia officinalis

Contains flavonoids, nicotinic acid, phytoncides, camphor, organic acids. It has regenerating properties, has an anti-inflammatory, disinfectant, softening effect, balances the production of sebum (sebum).

Lavender Angustifolia Extract

Disinfects, cleanses, frees the skin from toxins, has an antiseptic effect, reduces inflammation, has a refreshing, renewing, regenerating effect. Eliminates redness, irritation, swelling, itching, peeling and inflammatory reactions, normalizes the hydrolipid balance of the skin.

Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)

Contains β-sitosterol, carotenoids, taraxanthin, flavoxanthin, vitamins C, A, B2, E, PP, choline, manganese salts, iron, calcium, phosphorus. It has a calming, tonic, refreshing effect on the skin, relieves irritation and itching.

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Contains carotenoids, phytosterols, vitamins, microelements, bioflavonoids, organic acids, inulin. It has an anti-inflammatory, bactericidal effect, especially against staphylococci and streptococci in eczema and allergic dermatitis. Stimulates regeneration, improves metabolic processes in skin cells, promotes the regulation and absorption of sebum.

Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract

Contains hamamelitanin, flavonoid quercetin, catechins. It has disinfectant and anti-inflammatory properties, reduces the secretion of sebaceous glands, cleanses oily skin, removes toxins, eliminates irritation and flaking of the skin.

Essential Thyme Oil (Thymus Vulgaris Leaf Oil)

Contains thymol, which provides a bactericidal effect, stabilization of skin balance, and antibacterial effect.

Essential Tea Tree Oil (Malaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil)

Has an antiseptic, anti-inflammatory effect.

Essential lemon peel oil (Citrus Medica Limonum Peel Oil)

Accelerates tissue regeneration processes, stimulates the protective properties of the skin, eliminates itching, burning, swelling, and increases the efficiency of metabolic processes.

Combinations of sucralfate and sulfates of copper and zinc, zinc oxide promote healing, prevent secondary infection, have an antibacterial, protective, softening, soothing effect, and restore a feeling of comfort. Copper and zinc compounds have antibacterial, antioxidant and protective properties and promote rapid re-epithelialization.

Oils

Oils provide skin regeneration, filling, nutrition and delivery of substances.

Shea butter (Shea butter) (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter)

Contains glycerides of stearic, oleic and linoleic acids, slows down skin aging, has a protective, regenerating, moisturizing, anti-inflammatory effect. Improves the penetration of active ingredients into deeper layers of the skin.

Rice Oil (Oryza Sativa Bran Oil)

Contains fatty acids (oleic, linoleic, palmitic, stearic, lauric), vitamin E, ferulic acid, oryzanol, squalene, which prolong the youth of the skin. The oil moisturizes, nourishes and protects sensitive skin, is easily absorbed and does not clog pores. Promotes skin regeneration, prevents the appearance of wrinkles, increases skin firmness and elasticity, has anti-inflammatory, softening, antioxidant effects, preventing lipid peroxidation. Promotes the formation of collagen fibers. It is an excellent product for the care of mature, thin and sensitive skin, as well as the skin around the eyes. Due to its antioxidant and regenerating properties, it is recommended for dry and aging skin, especially during menopause.

Sweet Almond Oil (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil)

Contains B vitamins, vitamins A, E and F, significantly slows down the process of premature aging of the skin, reliably protects it from the negative effects of ultraviolet rays, and promotes good skin hydration. Vitamin F prevents the expansion of pores on the face and normalizes the functioning of the sebaceous glands. Sweet almond oil has an excellent rejuvenating, softening and nourishing effect, improves complexion, smoothes out shallow wrinkles.

Avocado Oil Glycereth-8 Esters

Contains vitamins B1, B2, D, K, PP, lecithin, chlorophyll, histidine, phytosterols, phosphoric acid salts, squalene, trace elements, polyunsaturated fatty acids. Due to the presence of vitamins A and E, it has antioxidant properties, stimulates metabolic processes and blood circulation in the skin, promotes the enrichment of tissues with oxygen, is optimal for protecting against premature aging of the skin during the period after menopause, in the fight against age-related pigmentation, reflects ultraviolet radiation, increases skin elasticity, softens , restores the barrier functions of the epidermis, local skin immunity.

Grape Seed Extract (Vitis Vinifera Extract)

Helps strengthen the connective tissues of the skin, stimulates cell renewal, has an anti-inflammatory and healing effect. Perfectly tones the skin and restores its elasticity. It has a pronounced antioxidant effect on the skin, removing metabolic products and free radicals from cells. Stimulates cellular growth and immunity, protects the skin from external stress factors - temperature changes, tobacco smoke, environmental pollution, UV radiation.

Jojoba oil (Buxus Chinensis)

Quickly penetrates the skin, effectively loosens fat, forms a gas-permeable protective layer, and biologically active substances easily penetrate into the deep layers of the skin. Penetrating deep into the epidermis, jojoba oil slows down the oxidation of skin lipids, preventing premature aging and reducing the risk of skin cancer.

Rice Oil (Oryza Sativa Bran Oil)

It has long been successfully used in cosmetology due to the presence of natural antioxidants in it, which prolong the youth of the skin, well nourishes and protects any, even the most sensitive skin. Promotes skin regeneration, prevents the appearance of wrinkles, increases skin firmness and elasticity, has anti-inflammatory, moisturizing and softening effects. Rice oil promotes skin regeneration, prevents the appearance of wrinkles, increases skin firmness and elasticity, and has anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, regenerating, and softening effects. Contains squalene, which is necessary for the normal functioning of the skin.

Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter)

Moisturizes and soothes the skin. Ideal for irritated, damaged skin, dry, dehydrated, mature, effective against premature aging due to its antioxidant content, stimulates microcirculation of skin cells and protects it from adverse factors. Has a protective, regenerating, moisturizing, anti-inflammatory effect. Improves the penetration of active ingredients into deeper layers of the skin.

Baobab Butter

Contains a large amount of β-carotene, which successfully fights the oxidative processes of cell membrane lipids, vitamins A, B1, C, D, E and F, and tartaric acid. Acts as a strong antioxidant, dissolves the stratum corneum of the epidermis, has a strong regenerating effect, nourishes and moisturizes the skin, promotes the formation of collagen and elastin. Suitable for all skin types, especially sensitive, couperose, does not cause allergies.

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Easily absorbed into the skin, has a softening, nourishing and moisturizing effect. It is distinguished by a high content of palmitoleic acid, which helps restore the skin, especially with aging skin, and which is not found in any other oil, with an increased ability to penetrate and transport beneficial substances deep into the skin. It has the ability to restore the epidermal barrier, protects against harmful environmental influences, especially in winter, when the skin dries out and is subject to constant stress. Acts as an antioxidant that prevents the destruction of cell membranes.

Other substances

Bioflavonoids, plant polyphenols

Substances of plant origin that resemble human estrogens in structure (sometimes called phytoestrogens). Bioflavonoids are the blue and green pigments of plants. Aqueous herbal extracts almost always contain some type of bioflavonoids. Different plants contain their own composition of flavonoids, which largely determine the medicinal properties of the extract. For example, the unique properties of grape seed extract are explained by the presence of proanthocyanidins (bioflavonoids with very powerful antioxidant activity), blueberries contain anthocyanins (blue bioflavonoids), etc. Bioflavonoids in plants form antioxidant cocktails in which various antioxidants restore each other and exhibit synergistic action.

Coenzyme Q10, ubiquinone

Promotes tissue regeneration, reduces the formation of comedones. Coenzyme Q is a molecule involved in the process of energy production in mitochondria. It has antioxidant activity, protects mitochondria - the energy stations of cells - from oxidative damage. Coenzyme Q10 exhibits antioxidant activity, stimulates skin cell renewal, collagen production, which helps protect the skin from loss of hyaluronic acid, restoring elasticity, youth and beauty of the skin.

Panthenol

Provitamin B5 activates cell regeneration and promotes the formation of new ones, accelerates the process of epithelization of the skin, relieves irritation, and has a strong moisturizing, regenerating and soothing effect. Panthenol prevents dehydration and maintains natural energy balance. Increases collagen's resistance to the destructive effects of free radicals. Recommended for dry, couperose, aging skin.

An ideal care product should contain all the components that promote skin regeneration, and should also be applied easily, without much effort, so as not to lead to additional mechanical and chemical damage to the epidermis. These are important components necessary for normal regeneration and epithelization of the skin.

First published in " Les Nouvelles Esthétiques Ukraine" No. 5 (111) 2018