Beauty customization as a trend in aesthetic medicine

Andrey Vaganov-Dashkov, doctor of anti-age therapy, dermatovenerologist, certified specialist in injection techniques, scientific director of the Laskos training center (Ukraine)

In medicine, the laws of neuroaesthetics can be applied in aesthetic correction and harmonization of patients’ faces, while preserving their individuality

In the first part of the material, we learned the history of the emergence of neuroaesthetics, and also became acquainted with some laws of visual attractiveness. Let's continue this list and find out how they can be used in injection correction.

The world has entered another round of gender vagueness - the reason for this is social processes. Evolutionary pressure on society has led to a shift in the positive perception of expressed gender to a less positive one

LAW OF MAXIMUM DISPLACEMENT

The law of maximum displacement means exaggeration of certain features of the depicted object.

V. Ramachandran demonstrates this law using the example of a sculpture of Parvati. In the figure of this goddess, the 12th century sculptor exaggerated individual elements of the female body, thereby creating an image of ideal female beauty.

It is easy to see that the law in question has been practiced for a long time and is widely used in aesthetic medicine, if not to say, it is one of the main ones. We are talking, first of all, about abstract, idealized objects like the lips of Angelina Jolie or the hypersexual face and body of Kim Kardashian.

Abstract idealized objects sometimes acquire a caricatured appearance, causing us different emotional experiences - from complete denial to delight. The work of Black Rise and Alex Lehmike, two professors from the University of Wisconsin, using caricatures of famous people in show business and politics as an example, proved that caricatured images evoke more positive emotions than the original.

Thus, neuroaesthetics explains the nature of the patient’s request for non-natural correction of the cheekbones and lips.

In conclusion of the review of the law of maximum displacement, we can conclude that hypertrophied facial shapes sometimes bring the patient a positive assessment not only by himself, but also by the society around him.

LAW OF METAPHOR

According to the law of metaphor, visual images of art are constructed metaphorically, that is, as a transfer of the characteristics of one object to another. In injection contouring, this law is often used to emphasize gender characteristics that are not characteristic of a given gender.

C. G. Jung mentioned in analytical psychology the principle of the androgenic phenomenon, which manifests itself in a special personality trait. The author expressed the opinion that what makes a person a woman or a man is the social processes taking place around him throughout his life. But, remaining in one role or another, a person unconsciously feels his spiritual inferiority, and only the restoration of his initial androgynous integrity can help him.

The modern world has entered another round of gender vagueness - the reason for this is the social processes taking place in society. We can track these processes through the prism of generational theory.

Generations formed during an era of military conflict, such as Generation X (1963–1983), formed by the Vietnam and Afghanistan conflicts, tend to express their gender to the maximum. Generation Y was formed in a completely different period - in 1983–2003, during the era of terrorism - and its perception of gender characteristics is fundamentally different from the perception of generation X. Based on the example of studies of markers of muscularity (Facial width-to-height ratio (fWHR), it was revealed that individuals with an fWHR of 1.91 were perceived by the opposite sex as aggressive, rule-breaking, and with racist beliefs.

Evolutionary pressure on society has led to a shift in positive perceptions of expressed gender to less pronounced ones.

The feminist movement as a social process has led to the masculinization of women's facial features and to new, non-standard requests for facial correction from an injection contouring doctor, such as correction of the angle of the lower jaw and dominance of the upper lip over the lower.

LAW OF GROUPING

The law of grouping (the connection between the elements of a face) speaks of the aesthetic feeling that arises when combining seemingly chaotically scattered elements into a coherent image.

Injection neuroaesthetics is based on 3D facial design - an integrated approach to facial correction and modeling using the all-face technique. And the law of grouping epitomizes this approach. At first glance, our face is assembled from various geometric shapes without any mutual connection with each other.

Facial analysis is carried out in two directions: aesthetic and morphological. During aesthetic analysis, we find out the patient’s social needs, aging morphotype and psychotype. Morphological analysis includes determining the characteristics of the facial skeleton, the state of fat packets, facial expression, stigmata of aging skin and soft tissues of the face, zones of gravitational ptosis and its severity.

The basis of the artistic perception of the face is the craniometric index. To determine the morphotype of a face, the classification according to Roginsky - Levin (1978) is used. This method allows you to accurately assess what type of face the patient belongs to - round, oval, square, rectangular.

The most important point in the work is the initial geometry of the face, where all the details are interconnected. Let's consider these connections using the example of the classic face shape - ovoid (oval version).

The upper lip has a relationship with the shape of the eyebrow: the more similar the lines of the eyebrow and upper lip are, the more harmonious the middle third of the face looks.

The spread of the eyebrow body is parallel to Cupid's arch (BC || EF). The tail of the eyebrow is parallel to the red border of the lip (AB || DE). Undoubtedly, this is quite difficult, since many patients have already modified the shape of their eyebrows by plucking or incorrect permanent tattooing.

The lower lip is interconnected with the shape of the lower jaw. The middle part of the lip is parallel to the line of the chin (AB || DE), and the lateral part is parallel to the line of the lower jaw (BC || EF).

Thus, we see the relationship between the eyebrows, lips, and lower jaw. Simple lip modeling, at first glance, can change the entire architecture of the face, because by changing the shape of the lips, we generally influence the harmony and perception of the face. Consequently, an experienced specialist can not only create beautiful, harmonious lips, but also make an “invisible” correction of the oval of the face.

PROBLEM SOLVING LAW

Every year our patients become more and more demanding of their appearance, constantly raising the quality bar for a doctor. Therefore, the key to working on a patient’s face has become “beauty customization” - a term that comes from digital technologies and means a personalized approach (“customization” - from English to customize - “adaptation of a mass product to the needs of a specific consumer”). In our understanding, beauty customization is not just the choice of filler, but also the method and place of injection of the drug. This is an opportunity to preserve the client’s charisma as much as possible.

The modern concept of beauty customization is the key modification technique. For beauty customization, a correct understanding of facial correction zones is very important; it is this that will allow you to get the best result - rejuvenation and aesthetic improvement of facial perception. Therefore, the first step to understanding the correct correction zones is facial analysis. Analysis scheme according to dr. T. Besins allows you to evaluate the face in dynamics, identifying the most correct points for drug administration.

The analysis is carried out in a bottom-up direction, this is due to the laws of aging of the facial part of the skull. This topic is discussed in detail by plastic surgeons Bryan Mendelson and Chin-Ho-Wong in the article “Changes of the facial skeleton with age: consequences and clinical developments in facial rejuvenation.” Drawing a conclusion from the article, we can define two vectors to compensate for these processes: the aging vector and the analysis vector.

The beauty customization method is based on the analysis of the patient’s face in different projections, under dynamic loads (revealing the patient’s facial pattern, aesthetic and physiological deficiencies) and the identification of generational stereotypes of the patient.

After determining the patient’s true needs and based on the examination results, a correction plan is built. Neuroprotein, filler based on hyaluronic acid or calcium hydroxyapatite (neuropeptide and filler are selected depending on the morphotype of aging) are the main characters that allow the patient’s face to be transformed in accordance with his expectations.

After each stage of correction, an additional analysis is made of the correctness of the therapy and patient satisfaction. The essence of the method is precise mathematics, based on an understanding of generational stereotypes and the patient’s physiology. By solving this equation, we get a happy patient who not only pleases himself, but also evokes positive emotions in those around him.

First published in "Les Nouvelles Esthétiques Ukraine" 6 (112) 2018