Powder eyebrows: myths and reality

Tatyana Nagornaya, methodologist of the European Beauty Business School "Cosmotrade", master of permanent make-up, make-up artist-stylist

Many masters, and especially beginners, can't wait to show off their work. As they say, the needle has not yet cooled down, and photos of magnificent eyebrows are already on the pages in social networks. That's just a photo of the same eyebrows in a month you can no longer expose, because the healed result is often not so perfect. Let's not rush, as they say, not to make anyone laugh.

The advertisement is engine of the trade

Nowadays, the profession of a permanent makeup master is rapidly developing. Many schools are opening that teach and sell equipment and pigments, more and more new eyebrow tattoo techniques with beautiful names appear: veil, powder, shadow, etc. Despite this, young masters still face problems: there is no pigment left, too bright, laid unevenly - and draw conclusions: it means bad material, bad technique or bad teaching! Why is that?

Let's find out what are the techniques when working with eyebrows? In fact, there are two of them: hair and shading. Other names are synonyms for these words, one might say, a marketing ploy. And shading remains with it, despite the variety of “nicknames”!

Not quite true

I have been working for seven years, during this period many techniques have changed, but many of them have not survived to our time and are not used in my work now. Because naturalness and naturalness are completely in vogue. And the eyebrows also touched. Eyebrows of light shading, soft, without a clear contour, with highlighted heads and top line - this is what fashionistas and craftsmen strive for. On the Internet, we see a lot of ideal works that are photographed immediately after the procedure, with a beautiful color, perfect coating, these beautiful eyebrows have hairs and no swelling, redness, ichor. Only here the healed works, many masters, unfortunately, do not exhibit. Because usually in these beautiful works, photographed immediately after the procedure, after healing, there is a small residual pigment in the skin.

Not only our clients, but also novice masters are captured by pictures from the Internet. Surely almost everyone has questions: “Why can’t I do the same? Why didn’t the pigment take root in the client?” Disappointment is the first thing a beginner feels when trying to change apparatus, pigments, school. Without realizing that this is not the case, no one will teach you to feel the skin - neither an experienced master, nor another apparatus! This is all your personal experience!

Everything can be done perfectly if you understand the essence of technology and know your equipment and its capabilities. If a student really wants to master the profession of a permanent makeup master, he will not give up after several unsuccessful works, he will still attend master classes, analyze his healed works, and such a master will succeed! I repeat once again: in our business, the main thing is experience and best practices.

Experience is a asset

We all know the name "pixel brows" and we've all seen the perfect pictures all over the place on the Internet. It's no secret that our skin is a protective shell of the body, metabolic processes take place in it, which means that our pigment also migrates when implanted. When the pigment is implanted, the skin is injured and a crust forms, which we save for a good dye residue. What happens to pixelated brows as they heal, given this skin function? Our pixel will not remain during healing either, it just turns out a shadow. So what's the point of those pixelated eyebrows if the result is a shadow? For beautiful photos? And then what to say to customers who were counting on a point effect? Moreover, pixel eyebrows are made “one”, and this is dangerous when the master does not have much work experience, because with this configuration of the needle it is easy to go deep and harm the skin. My advice: in the early stages of your practice, use beam needles and work out the shadow technique without pixels, veils and everything else!

Basic rules for powder eyebrows :

• spray the head and make contourless shape;
• introduce the pigment by spraying it in 2-3 passes;
• pick up a non-sharp unit or a bunch;
• adjust the power of the device (minimum or average) depending on the zone in which you work;
• remember that a good residue and a clear pattern is more expected when using a synthetic pigment, glycerin ones “rub” a little in the skin;
• analyze and take into account the nuances of the skin.

Never get frustrated and don't give up! Indeed, in order to thoroughly master our profession, you need to do more than a dozen works. And taking into account the fact that each skin is individual and the pigment lays down and heals differently on each person, then more than one hundred works! The main thing is not to stand still, study, study and study again! I speak with confidence, based on my own practice: many, even experienced masters, despite many years of experience, do not always act as teachers at master classes, but are also students. Because a master who stands still and does not develop professionally is not interesting in our time!

The material was first published in Permanent No. 1(9)\2018