Author's techniques in permanent make-up: innovations or marketing?

Permanent makeup trends

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Powder eyebrows and watercolor lips: what is behind the trend names? Let's take a look at what these methods are. And aren't the author's "variations" of already existing techniques just a successful marketing ploy?

Liliya Panitkina , permanent make-up master, head of @lmakeup_studio studio

Powder eyebrows

Powder eyebrows are one of the most popular permanent makeup techniques. This type of tattooing came into our practice following the technique of shotting - a denser skin coloring, satisfying the current market demand for naturalness. A modern woman appreciates time, but the fact that eyebrows in this technique completely “leave” the skin up to 3 years is a big plus. We change, our tastes and style change, so permanent makeup should also be temporary.

Before and after the procedure. Photos provided by the author

First of all, I want to emphasize that the “powder eyebrows” technique is a permanent make-up, that is, the apparatus, needles and pigments are also used. There will be no magic and powdering, the pigment, as in any permanent makeup technique, is applied to the upper layer of the dermis.

In fact, “powder eyebrows” is a shading technique that takes its origins in the “dotwork” tattoo technique, in which the drawing is done with dots. By varying the distance between the dots and the number of layers, masters can achieve the effect of volume.

Before and after the procedure

Layer by layer, the master of permanent makeup paints the skin with small dots (pixels), achieving the desired intensity. Since the concentration of the coloring matter in permanent inks is less than in tattoo inks, the pixels spread during healing and do not look like dots, but gently form a light-and-shadow pattern.

The powder coating technique is non-traumatic, it gives the maximum color residue during healing, so correction is required less often. Why is that? In permanent makeup, the rule applies - the less tissue is injured, the greater the pigment residue, since the ichor in traumatized, overworked skin pushes out the injected pigment, which leads to a poor pigment residue after healing.

When creating watercolor lips , the same technique is used as with powder eyebrows - with small dots, layer by layer, we introduce pigment under the skin.

Lips in watercolor technique

Watercolor lips are a non-contouring lip tinting technique in permanent make-up, in which the lips acquire the desired shade, but without significant changes in shape. If your client has a request to change the shape of the lips and this can be achieved harmoniously with the help of permanent makeup, then a denser coloring, the so-called lipstick effect, is required. In this case, the effect of watercolor lips cannot be achieved. You need to pay attention to this.

The “watercolor lips” technique is ideal for girls who are satisfied with the existing volume of the lips, but lack juiciness, brightness, or need to correct the natural shade of the lips, which, for some reason, does not suit the client (for example, a bluish undertone). And also there is no desire to accentuate the contour.

Masters and schools, wanting to stand out in the market, come up with beautiful English names for their techniques, but in essence this is watercolor lips: contourless and loosely painted over, with a gentle effect of lip tinting.

A modern client today is sophisticated and knows exactly what problem he can solve with the help of permanent makeup, and at a personal consultation, together with the master, he only determines in the most suitable technique.

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