Lip PM: glazing method from Yulia Didenko

Yulia Didenko , stylist-make-up artist, master of permanent make-up of international class, winner of the All-Ukrainian championship in PM (2014), founder of the author's school of makeup and PM "Image Master"

There are two types of PM: decorative and natural.

In decorative PM, all natural colors are enhanced by several tones and the effect of a painted face is created. This includes lipstick effects on the lips, shadow effects on the eyes, as well as eyebrows that are more than two shades darker than the hair. With the help of decorative PM, you can slightly change the shape of the lips, eyes, eyebrows (everything, as in decorative makeup, only taking into account the fact that you can’t wash it off in the evening).

Natural PM (so relevant now) does not change the face with the help of color and shape, but only emphasizes naturalness, while adding juiciness and expressiveness.

Permanent make-up by glazing method. Photos provided by the author

When creating makeup, be sure to consider the client's contrast levels. The contrast level is the difference between hair color, skin color, and eye color. As you know, there are three levels:

• low: blond hair, light skin and light eyes and, conversely, very dark skin, dark hair and eyes (Negroid race);
• medium (most common type): medium-dark hair (blond shades), light skin, light or dark eyes;
• high: dark hair, light skin, dark or light eyes, or very light hair and skin and very dark eyes.

The stronger this difference, the higher the level of contrast, which means that the colors in the makeup can be more saturated. The smaller the difference between the color of hair, skin and eyes, the softer and more muted the colors should be.

In this case, I advise you to use the lip primer with a watercolor effect, for example, using the glazing method, which allows you to achieve the visual volume of the lips, their juiciness and freshness, without overloading with color. What is glazing in PM? This is the application of pigments in layers, thin, translucent layers. As a result, we get a multifaceted lip color (toning).

Permanent make-up by glazing method. Photos provided by the author

Technical features of the procedure

• 3⎼4 pigment colors are used (necessarily both warm (or neutral) and cold);
• pigments are diluted with water to a more liquid state;
• needles 1 R ⎼ for light contour and 3 RS ⎼ for shading are used;
• colors are applied in layers, starting with warm, the brightest and most juicy is used in the last layer.

Before the procedure, before creating a sketch, do not forget to analyze: determine the age, color type, face shape, skin type, proportion ratio, asymmetry, general style, character and personality of a person. Then analyze the individual characteristics of the lips: the location of the mouth, the relief of the lips, the nature of the staining of the red border (complete or incomplete), color, volume, position of the corners of the mouth, whether there are age-related changes. And only after that proceed to create a sketch of the lips with cosmetic pencils.

Step by step procedure

1) with a 1 R needle and an average shade of pigment, draw a contour (outline it). The contour should be clear and thin;

2) change the needle to 3 RS and use a warm light or neutral color pigment to do shading (spraying) on the upper and lower lip;

3) we continue the same thing, but with the pigment of the brighter of the selected shades, we achieve saturation;

4) layer the next pigment, the brightest and juiciest;

5) we make the layers thin and after the third color we return to color number 1;

6) repeat the watercolor spraying with shades of pigments 1, 2, 3.

"Live" color during healing is guaranteed!

The material was first published in Permanent No. 1(9)/2018